how do i do this joint

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    how do i do this joint

    Click image for larger version  Name:	joint.jpg Views:	1 Size:	22.3 KB ID:	839045

    How do I make this joint/notch? half inch deep and wide. Probably 2" or so long. Obviously I can use a rabbet bit or a 1/2" straight router bit but then I have to chisel the corner out on every one of them.

    Is there any way to make a square inside corner without a corner chisel (I do have one, just a relative pain to use). It's going to be a little wide than the corner chisel (3/8") anyway.

    Mortiser would not work because the bottom tends to be quite rough and irregular. I want two or three smooth sides.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-01-2020, 12:07 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions
  • leehljp
    Just me
    • Dec 2002
    • 8429
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #2
    The images are not showing up for me; I have long wondered how well corner chisels worked but never had one.

    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

    Comment

    • cwsmith
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 2737
      • NY Southern Tier, USA.
      • BT3100-1

      #3
      Loring, I'm not seeing your pictures either.

      CWS
      Think it Through Before You Do!

      Comment

      • Jim Frye
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 1051
        • Maumee, OH, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000 & BT3100

        #4
        I don’t see them on my iPad with FireFox. I’ll check the PC later.

        Update: Not showing up on the W10 PC with FireFox, nor Chrome either. Sorry
        Last edited by Jim Frye; 03-31-2020, 09:13 PM.
        Jim Frye
        The Nut in the Cellar.
        ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

        Comment

        • atgcpaul
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2003
          • 4055
          • Maryland
          • Grizzly 1023SLX

          #5
          I can't see the picture either, but I'm going to make a wild guess based on your description.

          When I chop dovetails, I clamp a thick, squared block at my baseline, and use that as a guide to keep my chisel square to the stock. Could you route your slot (I'm assuming), then clamp a block to use a guide block to square up the corner?

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Internet Fact Checker
            • Dec 2002
            • 20914
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            Can you see it now?
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • mpc
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2005
              • 979
              • Cypress, CA, USA.
              • BT3000 orig 13amp model

              #7
              I can see your picture now; I could not see it previously

              I'd probably use a straight bit in a router, not a rabbeting bit. And a skinny one too - not 1/2 inch but more like 1/4 inch or even smaller. That'll leave a smaller "arc" shaped piece at the base to chisel out.

              Start with a good hand saw and cut the end/base of the waste section; somewhat like the cuts one makes to start a half-blind dovetail joint. You'd start the cut at the edge of the workpiece, cutting at 45 degrees to the two faces until the saw cut is half an inch on each face. That'll give you straight "show" edges at the base of this cutout instead of relying on a chisel to get clean and square edges. Then, with a router table and a bit poking up about 1/4 inch from the tabletop, make a rabbet from the end of the workpiece until you're as close to the saw kerf as you can get. Move the fence and make the rabbet wider and wider until it reaches the 1/2 inch that you need. Reset the fence and raise the router bit so it's a half inch high and make a second set of passes to get the full depth. The smaller diameter router bit you use, the more passes you'll have to make but the closer you'll get to the saw kerf to minimize the arc left over. By the time you do as much you can with the router, only the very inside corner will need chisel work.

              my initial ideas anyway.

              mpc

              Comment

              • leehljp
                Just me
                • Dec 2002
                • 8429
                • Tunica, MS
                • BT3000/3100

                #8
                Use a router for the major cut to the stopping point, then use a chisel.

                I don't have one of those "block" style corner chisels, but I have thought of them. However, I think I would probably use a regular chisel well honed to the point that you would hardly need to tap it. This would be a job for the Sorby type but the Sorby type would be difficult to sharpen and hone for me. I do best with flat and curved than 90° inner angles. So the bottom line would be a good sharpened and honed flat chisel and hand push it to flatten the end curve.

                Sorby type corner chisel but less expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Narex-813410-.../dp/B0049MXKZM

                I would probably choose the Narex over the block type, but more than likely a flat one over the Sorby.

                How MANY will you need to do? This would be the determining point for my final decision. If I had a 100, I might get a Sorby and learn to sharpen it, But 4 or 8 or even 16, I would used a flat chisel.
                Hank Lee

                Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                Comment

                • Jim Frye
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 1051
                  • Maumee, OH, USA.
                  • Ryobi BT3000 & BT3100

                  #9
                  With the right jig set up you could rout the stopped rabbit with a straight bit then flip the workpiece around 90 degrees and rout it again. This should square both ends of the stopped rabbit. I’d think this would need minimal cleanup with a paring chisel.
                  Jim Frye
                  The Nut in the Cellar.
                  ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

                  Comment

                  • cwsmith
                    Veteran Member
                    • Dec 2005
                    • 2737
                    • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                    • BT3100-1

                    #10
                    I would have to agree with everybody here, I'd use a straight bit, set a stop on my router table to ensure that the rabbet cut was consistent in length and then I'd use my bench and/or skew chisels to clean up the end.

                    Jim's idea of flipping it 90-degrees is good, but this morning I'm not clearly visualizing that.

                    CWS

                    Think it Through Before You Do!

                    Comment

                    • durango dude
                      Senior Member
                      • Mar 2011
                      • 934
                      • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                      • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                      #11
                      Looks like a 1x1 leg - and want to cut a 1/2" x 1/2" into it?


                      I made something like this when I made "saddles" for the corners of a box that I made.
                      Of course, I cut mine a lot deeper than 1/2".

                      I did mine with a spiral bit and a mini router table. I set the bit for 1/2" depth, and used a stop block on the fence.

                      You can do two passes - or set the fence for the deepest pass ---- and follow up with a more shallow pass guided by hand.

                      This isn't going to cut a straight slot - so you finish it off with a chisel/shoulder plane.

                      Another option - a mortising chisel might work.
                      Last edited by durango dude; 04-01-2020, 12:48 PM.

                      Comment

                      • mpc
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2005
                        • 979
                        • Cypress, CA, USA.
                        • BT3000 orig 13amp model

                        #12
                        Another thought occurs to me after re-reading the original post: it seems the worry is being able to get a really square result using chisels. If that's the case, I'd clamp some extra boards to the top and base along the edges of the cutout. These will serve as guides for the backsides of the chisel, helping hold it square and vertical.

                        mpc
                        Last edited by mpc; 04-01-2020, 09:43 PM.

                        Comment

                        • LCHIEN
                          Internet Fact Checker
                          • Dec 2002
                          • 20914
                          • Katy, TX, USA.
                          • BT3000 vintage 1999

                          #13
                          Originally posted by cwsmith
                          I would have to agree with everybody here, I'd use a straight bit, set a stop on my router table to ensure that the rabbet cut was consistent in length and then I'd use my bench and/or skew chisels to clean up the end.

                          Jim's idea of flipping it 90-degrees is good, but this morning I'm not clearly visualizing that.

                          CWS
                          Flipping it 90 degrees and making a second cut won't work, unless you are willing to feed the wood backwards of the proper direction.
                          And it will still leave a rounded corner, albeit a little less so.
                          Loring in Katy, TX USA
                          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                          Comment


                          • cwsmith
                            cwsmith commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Thanks!

                            Guess that was my problem with not visualizing it.
                        • capncarl
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 3564
                          • Leesburg Georgia USA
                          • SawStop CTS

                          #14
                          Is the slot 1/4x1/4?
                          is this piece in a place it is seen? If no, then I would make it out of 3 pieces of wood and glue it up.
                          Last edited by capncarl; 04-08-2020, 01:43 PM. Reason: I would make it out of 3 pieces of wood, corrected from 2 pieces of wood.

                          Comment

                          • mm1992
                            Forum Newbie
                            • Nov 2019
                            • 37
                            • Columbus, OH
                            • BT3100

                            #15
                            Originally posted by LCHIEN

                            Flipping it 90 degrees and making a second cut won't work, unless you are willing to feed the wood backwards of the proper direction.
                            And it will still leave a rounded corner, albeit a little less so.
                            What if you use a spacer to position the stop block on a router table fence. Set the distance between the bit and the stop, and then you can reposition it on the other side fairly accurately (especially with spiral bits, as I recently learned how easy it is to reference a measurement off them). Not perfectly square but less to clean up that routing off one face only.


                            Otherwise, I'm a fan of the block of wood as a chisel guide method. When I clean up routed mortises that's my usual technique and it works really well.

                            Comment

                            Working...