Building the Ultimate Tool Stand.

[Neal]

Moving my step-daughter to Dallas slowed progress on my Ultimate Tool Stand build, but I was able to get some serious time in on it this weekend.

I finished cutting the hole pattern in the three top sections and it was time to permanently attach two of them to either side and make the removeable section, so that was my focus this weekend.

To attach the right and left sections I decided to use 5 blocks per side in this pattern:






I figured the center block would help support the panel. Each block is fixed to the section below with four pocket hole's and screws. It made for a solid base.

Next step was to make sure the holes aligned in the two sections. After all why go to the trouble to havea perforated top and not have the holes aligned with each other.



The bench dogs used have a flat side on them. I purchased them on Ebay (link). They are also threaded with 5/16" threads.

Then it was on to the center section which is removable.

It was put on a pseudo i-beam, with a dado cut in the top piece and narrower bottom pieces (visible in second photo) and is held down with a star knob and a threaded t-nut. But the holes still need to be aligned...





Some comments...

The holes align accross the top, however they do not keep the spacing from panel to panel. I didn't believe this to have long term importance in the use. If I needed to use the hole pattern to do angles, it was probably going to be concentrated on a single section and not across sections. It will work to have them be 90 degrees to each other from panel to panel if necessary, which I did feel could be useful in the future.

If I had to do over, when I had the template made to cut the holes I would have had it done with a 4 x 3 hole pattern, to make the moving of the template less frequent.

Next step....

The setup for the CMS. I have the CMS mounted on two MDF runners to align the bed with the top sections, however, I still have to assemble the fence. I will post pictures of that as I get to it. Have to put a coat or two of poly on the MDF fence sections and make a dado for the T-track part of the fence (the dado coming first of course).

After that I will work on the router table part. I have purchased the triton plunge router, but I still need to purchase or make a plate insert and craft the top.

Baby steps.

[capncarl]

One of the best improvements to the ultimate work bench/saw stand would be to fit it with large enough casters to have it high enough off the floor to sweep under with a push broom and wheel locks or levelers should be a single action push type toggle clamp. Yes it adds to the cost but the long term improvement is well worth it to me. Not having the stand hang up when it is pushed over an expansion joint in the concrete because of tiny caster wheels is nice.

[Neal]

One of the best improvements to the ultimate work bench/saw stand would be to fit it with large enough casters to have it high enough off the floor to sweep under with a push broom and wheel locks or levelers should be a single action push type toggle clamp. Yes it adds to the cost but the long term improvement is well worth it to me. Not having the stand hang up when it is pushed over an expansion joint in the concrete because of tiny caster wheels is nice.

I can see where this would be very useful. In fact I would shrink the height of the "larger" cabinet openings on the bottom to compensate for the extra height of those casters.

[capncarl]

On my version of the "ultimate workbench"', not to be confused with the " "ultimate saw cabinet" or "ultimate toolbox" ( yes the ultimate whatever has been exploited to every corner of the shop), I did not build the drawer units to fill the entire cabinet. The vices on each end required about 3 inches inside the cabinet for their mecanisms so I made the 6" wide drawer units lower to accomidate this, leaving a full width shelf. I thought that would be great for big stuff like squares, saws etc. but it just turns into a tangled up mess. I'm building a wide and shallow drawer unit to slip in this hole. It's purpose is to be home for all the nuts,bolts,screws,nails and pencils that always find theirselves in cans, jars and boxes and seem to permanitely reside on the workbench top.

[Neal]

Pretty much done with this....

The miter saw setup, with fences and such.



The fences make use of the perforated tops and bench dogs. Push the fence assembly back to the bench dog and clamp them down.



Then the miter saw goes lines up and there is a 6 foot miter stand.

I got the aluminum channel "used" on ebay. Still have a bunch of it, too.

Some thoughts about the whole thing.

• If I had to do over, and now that my skills are improving, I would probably use 3/4" plywood for the upper portion of it. MDF is dusty, heavy, stuff. The weight is the biggest factor, though.

• The MDF tends to "rack" significantly when pushing/pulling with the length of the stand. I've had to put two support pieces on the back which has helped with that, but it still is noticeable.

• Don't skimp on the casters. The thing is a beast, you need good wheels.

• It provides a good large surface on which to work. It has adequate storage underneath. It is functional. I like the perforated top as well. That is one thing I would definitely do again if I were to remake this.

In the end it was a good project to do to learn and improve some of my skills as a still fairly novice woodworker. I learned plenty, in the process.