Media Center Cabinet

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  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21052
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #16
    Originally posted by dusty
    This is a good point for me to ask a foolish question (hijack may be the word).

    When a gap, such as this but maybe a bit more significant, is pulled closed during glue up does that weaken the overall structure? Will the joint last as long as it would have had there been no need for pressing the gap closed.
    it is frequently stated that a good glue joint is stronger than wood, a statement I've taken as the truth.

    So if you pull it together with clamps and glue then the wood fibers will have to separate (basically the wood splits) before the glue joint comes apart. This of course depends on the joint being fully wetted both sides and no gaps etc all the requirements of a good joint and sound pieces of wood with no cracks.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #17
      Some small gaps that aren't due to ill fitting joints should clamp up with little stress. Joints clamped under severe stress could be problematic.

      .

      Comment

      • Zbart
        Forum Newbie
        • Feb 2006
        • 24
        • Lansing, MI
        • BT3100

        #18
        Thanks for the advice all. So far so good. I made a few tweaks and was able to close it up to acceptable(to me) levels. I cut the dados for the top and have that attached now too. I want to add an inset baseboard underneath the bottom shelf. What is the best way to attach that to the cabinet? Will I need to account for any expansion? Thanks.

        Scott

        Comment

        • Zbart
          Forum Newbie
          • Feb 2006
          • 24
          • Lansing, MI
          • BT3100

          #19
          After a short delay, the project continues! I have a couple more questions.

          I am going to leave the top open, but I am going to place a back on teh small section behing the drawer. Since i didn't need a whole sheet, I bought a 2' x 4' sheet of walnut plywood online. Only issue is that i can't read and only one side is veneered.

          I figure i have a couple options. I can stain the back side with a walnut stain or i can suck it up and buy another sheet. If i use the stain would it make more sense to put the stained side in(facing the back of the drawer) or out?

          I am building the drawer with a false front. The case will be made of poplar and I will be using dovetails. Do i just use normal Pine ply for the bottom or something else? i will have left over walnut ply.

          Any input is appeciated and thanks once again.

          Scott

          Comment

          • Pappy
            The Full Monte
            • Dec 2002
            • 10453
            • San Marcos, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 (x2)

            #20
            I would use a piece of Birch ply for the drawer bottom because it will give you a much smoother surface. You should be able to pick up a 'drop' from a local cabinet shop for close to nothing.

            As to the inset base under the bottom shelf, I wouldn't think that expansion would be a problem on a piece that small. Assuming everything is glued together already, cut it to fit snug and slide it in place from the bottom with a THIN layer of glue on the contact surfaces. It would help to clamp alignment blocks on each side behind where it will be positioned so it goes in straight. Also tape along the front edge to minimize glue clean up.
            Don, aka Pappy,

            Wise men talk because they have something to say,
            Fools because they have to say something.
            Plato

            Comment

            • All Thumbs
              Established Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 322
              • Penn Hills, PA
              • BT3K/Saw-Stop

              #21
              Can you double-up the 1/4" to make it 1/2", and laminate it so the walnut faces are out? You could then make a 1/2" deep rebate in the back to accept the walnut panel.

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