Any problems using treated lumber for framing walls

[TheChadNC]

Greeting everyone,
I am in the beginning stages of planing to build my new work shop and was trying to put some cost's together. I was pricing 2x4 lumber at the box stores, which I will use for my wall framing and see that I can buy treated 2x4x8 for $1.97 each vs $2.34 for untreated. Seems like a no brainer to save money. My big question is, will there be any issues that could arise from using treated lumber for wall studs? I'm not sure yet on how I will finish the inside. I would like to eventually put up paneling or sheetrock but will probably either do nothing or paint it white in the beginning. The building size will be 10x16. Thanks in advance for your feedback.

[atgcpaul]

The first thing that comes to mind is that treated lumber is usually really wet
straight from the store and will twist/warp as it dries. This might give you
uneven walls. I guess you could buy it and let it dry out first for a couple of
weeks/months before you start framing.

Paul

[skillybob]

I would check this site out - lots of good info for your question.
http://www.treatedwood.com/main/faqs.php

[dbhost]

Depends on fire code in your area. There are fire retardant studs on the market, that are required in new construction in my area...

[natausch]

atgcpaul hit the nail on the head; PT lumber loves to warp as it dries.

www.contractortalk.com (sister site to www.woodworkingtalk.com) is a great resource on framing questions.

[downtheroad]

The chemicals in treated lumber are more corrosive and fasteners need to be chosen wisely. Do a search for corrosion rates of treated lumber fasteners.

Also treated lumber may be more prone to warpage.

[capncarl]

There is no need in spending any additional $$ on the treated lumber. Use treated lumber for contact to the floor plate or concrete. If treated lumber is needed because of moisture, you have another problem. If you are trying to work around treating for termites, they will just will go around treated lumber to eat the rest of the building. Dry lumber is much straighter and easier to work with anyway.
capncarl

[Rich P]

There are two ratings of PT lumber, "air contact" and "ground contact". The big box stores usually only have the lower rating. I know that Simpson has a Zmax line of fittings specifically designed for use with PT. Depending on your framing plans, the higher cost of Zmax would offset the savings of a few pennies per stud. You can use PT for your bottom plate and regular framing lumber for the rest. I'd also check with local code requirements. My rough calcs on just the studs is you'd save $20 with PT. Not sure how tight your budget is but hardly seems worth it to me.

[master53yoda]

Most treated lumber is pine and not structurally as strong as #2 and better hem fur that is used in the northwest for framing. I would not consider using it at max spacing due to strength.
As far as drying it, if you sticker it and let it dry for a couple of months it will reduce the warpage but it is pine, as well as when it is finished drying it will acclimatize to the highest level of moisture rather then the lowest level of moisture that the kiln dried lumber will dry to. It is noticeable if you weigh the dried boards.

My 2 cents worth

[phrog]

I had to replace some floor joists due to a leaking toilet. I was told not to use PT because it would mildew quickly because of the moisture in it. I'm not an expert and can only relate what I was told by those who purported to be experts.
I can also state that I bought some 4x4x8 to temporarily support a platform for a couple weeks. It was PT and I stored in the attic after use. Six months later, it had warped so badly that it looked like spaghetti.

[cwsmith]

In addition to the moisture/warping, and corrosive factors regarding the use of PT, I think I would also be concerned of any "out-gassing" that may occur. It is one thing to use PT outside, or in ground contact as they are not generally in "living areas".

But, for a room where I think one might spend a lot of time, I think I would be concerned for the air and any possible chemical exposure that you would be breathing.

CWS

[TheChadNC]

Well thanks for all of the advice. It looks like its not worth the trouble just to try to save a few bucks. I don't have an unlimited budget as I will be buying a couple hundred dollars worth of materials every week or so and want to save as much money as I can but as Rich said, it doesn't seem worth it just to save $20-$30.
I originally looked into a local company that does rent to own and thought about going that rout as I dont have the $$$ to drop down all at once. They offer a 10x16 for about $140 a month but when you do the math you wind up paying over $5000. for the building. No thanks! I can build one ALOT cheaper and figure it will only take a month or two to get it done as I would only have 1-2 days a week to work on it. Plus I can probably get a little bigger building out of it........now to find some plans for a 12x16 or 12x20!!!

[toolguy1000]

it sounds as if you are building a new, freestanding building on your property. what did your local building dept say about materials when you filed the application for a building permit? in the NYC tristate area where i am, my municipality allows PT indoors only as sill plates which contact concrete.

BTW, have you considered a prefab building? we assembled an 8x8 shed from HD for all our garden equipment. cost around $400, plus flooring plywood and roofing materials. probably under $500 all in. a kit could save you time and would certainly not cost anywhere near $5000. just my $.02.

[parnelli]

BTW, have you considered a prefab building? we assembled an 8x8 shed from HD for all our garden equipment. cost around $400, plus flooring plywood and roofing materials. probably under $500 all in. a kit could save you time and would certainly not cost anywhere near $5000. just my $.02.

I can't speak for NC, but up North here I've seen the prefab displays at Lowes, HD etc go pretty cheap every once in a while- typically around this time of year when the weather turns. I suppose when the manufacturer makes a new model or whatever.

[TheChadNC]

I haven't filed for a permit yet as I'm not exactly sure what size I'm going to build yet but I can tell you that they are pretty slack around here on requirements. You don't even have to pull a permit unless it has a dimension over 12ft. I looked at kits to but by the time you get close to the dimensions I am looking at it gets right up there in price plus I'm sure I would have to upgrade the floor in a kit shed.
I took a material list for a 12x16 and priced everything (nails, blocking, shingles and all) out and it comes to just under $1800.00 for everything except paint and windows (craigslist). I'm sure I will spend a little more here and there. The guy I was talking to before wanted $3195.00 for the same thing to buy outright (its over $5000.00 on rent to own). I understand he has to account for labor and delivery/setup fees. I am willing to do it myself to save money.