Should I buy a bed frame or make one?

[SARGE..g-47]

"Remember you'll have to hold the router sideways to route due to the length of the rails but it worked perfectly. Used Maple. Pictures below.

Hint: When I got them, before installation, the connectors took some force to get mated with each other, then even harder to get apart being there's nothing to hold onto to. I used a file gently until they slid into each other with just a hint of friction and no slop".... LCHIEN

Nice job Loring... sideways with one of one of my hoss Milwaukee's is indeed not an easy task agreed. Here's where one of those small Bosch Colt's shine. Not an everyday router but when you need a light-weight to do specialty jobs well...

Ditto LICHEN on the gentle file work T-H-W-G as I have never used one of these type that didn't require the gentle filing he mentioned. But.. you can expect a slight burr on a $12 set of hardware these days I suppose.

[LCHIEN]

actually, if I recall, I did not do the router work sideways entirely.
I placed one end of the board on the floor, with a place near to the working end clamped to the side of the workbench and the template clamped to the end of the board itself. That puts the board and router tilted over somewhere between 45 and 60 degrees off vertical... but I think prefereable to totally sideways as its easier to see and to hold the router. I did it with a Bosch 1617. The template jig is the secret, with a flat platform for the router to rest on, small precision rectangular opening for a guide bushing, and a right angle piece to clamp to the side of the board.

Ha, if you have a second story loft workshop you can clamp it hanging over the side of the balcony and work with the router vertical!

[SARGE..g-47]

actually, if I recall, I did not do the router work sideways entirely.
I placed one end of the board on the floor, with a place near to the working end clamped to the side of the workbench and the template clamped to the end of the board itself. That puts the board and router tilted over somewhere between 45 and 60 degrees off vertical... but I think prefereable to totally sideways as its easier to see and to hold the router. I did it with a Bosch 1617. The template jig is the secret, with a flat platform for the router to rest on, small precision rectangular opening for a guide bushing, and a right angle piece to clamp to the side of the board.

Ha, if you have a second story loft workshop you can clamp it hanging over the side of the balcony and work with the router vertical!

I also place one end on the floor and clamp the working end in my twin screw end vise. Too risky IMO trying to work with the piece totally horizonal. I got a chuckle out of the hanging idea as guess what... I have done a task similar to this when I made some show-room counters that were in 12' sections that connected.

I have a rear deck that sits about 12'-15' (the yard is on a slope) off the ground. I clamped the stock to the deck rails so it was hanging straight down making the router hold normal as I stood on the deck with the stock clamped vertical in front of me. Worked like a charm but not a rainy day affair.

Many ways to skin a cat and depends on what you have and how clever you can get to do it.. ha..ha... ha..ha..ha..

Have a good day, Loring...

[tohellwithuga]

Wow, lots of great ideas and advice here guys, thanks!

I have a rear deck that sits about 12'-15' (the yard is on a slope) off the ground. I clamped the stock to the deck rails so it was hanging straight down making the router hold normal as I stood on the deck with the stock clamped vertical in front of me. Worked like a charm but not a rainy day affair.

Ha ha, I'm just finishing up my deck extension today or tomorrow (if this rain would ever go away), but this never crossed my mind to use my deck to clamp to. Very good idea!

[JimD]

Another option for a narrow rail is to offset the connector a little to the inside. That lets the metal show but only on the inside where it really won't show. That avoids having a very narrow piece of wood on the outside of the connector that could be damaged, especially prior to installation of the connector.

I also just use long screws and screw into the end grain. I would say at least 2 inch and 3 inches is not too long. I did this on a queen sized bed with no issues but it is also in oak. I think you will be fine in pine for the size bed you're making. I've read all the warnings about screwing into end grain but I've also had good success doing it. A coarse thread screw is required, IMHO, however.

It will be kind of obvious when you get the connectors but you not only have to mortise out for the plate that shows but also for the back side of what is in effect a rivet connection on the rail piece and for the hooks to come through on the bed post piece. Those cuts do not show so I just do them free hand with a plunge router. I use a template for the plate that shows so the mortises are neat. You still have to chisel the corners but that little bit of chisel work is pretty straight forward.

I will also ditto the filing of the connectors. Saves a bunch of frustration during bed assembly. It only takes a few minutes and I file only on the rail piece (the simple plates for the posts seems to be pretty consistent in the opening size).

Jim

[tohellwithuga]

Thanks, Jim...

Another option for a narrow rail is to offset the connector a little to the inside. That lets the metal show but only on the inside where it really won't show. That avoids having a very narrow piece of wood on the outside of the connector that could be damaged, especially prior to installation of the connector.

That would make things easier, I just wonder about the screws being so close to the edge then, though. I guess I could angle them slightly.

I also just use long screws and screw into the end grain. I would say at least 2 inch and 3 inches is not too long. I did this on a queen sized bed with no issues but it is also in oak. I think you will be fine in pine for the size bed you're making. I've read all the warnings about screwing into end grain but I've also had good success doing it. A coarse thread screw is required, IMHO, however.

I may go ahead and glue some hardwood dowels in there just in case. It's going to be interesting pre-drilling the screw holes since I don't have any kind of jig for my drill, and I won't be able to use my drill press.