How do you mark your work?

[scmhogg]

I use a branding iron that you have to heat with a torch. It can give iffy results. I hate having to test the heat on scrap first.

I also make a shallow hole with a 3/4" forstner bit and epoxy a current new penny to denote the date made.

Steve

[drumpriest]

I mostly don't. No real reason, I just often don't think of it until I've applied the finish, then I think "darn-it, that one was nice, I should have signed it." When I do remember I typically just sign it somewhere hidden, and lacquer over that bit.

I like the brass plate idea, for really high end things...

[dbhost]

I've seen a lot of guys that do that. Simply sign the work piece with a Sharpie, somewhere hidden, and then poly over that. That would work great, until the great grandchild of the maker decides to refinish it...

IF I am going to want folks in the future to know it was my hands that made something, I want the mark to be permanent. I would think branding, recessed stamping, or engraving would be best for that purpose... I keep mulling over the Dremel with the engraving bit idea...

[LCHIEN]

For those of you considering getting an iron, here are some factors to take into account:

Electric vs torch heating.
The electric I have to wait about 10-15 minutes for it to get hot enough to use, and a similar amount to let it cool to put away. They come with a small stand to keep it from burning your table as it heats, still the time is inconvenient - you just can't whip it out and do it. With a torch iron, you have to have a propane torch or similar, I'm not sure how many minutes are required, and if you do heat it, some constant attention is required as well as working with an open flame. For me, the electric was worth the extra bucks. I'm thinking my non-contact infra-red themometer might be good for checking the optimal temperature either way. I'm always so impatient waiting for it to heat.

The cord is not a impediment for single or a few marks - the iron stays hot enough once its reached temperature to do a few brand "burns" if you unplug it and take it to the work.

For technique, the instructions caution that the plate can warp some, so a bit of rocking and rolling is required for good even imprint. The time required depends onthe actual temperature and also to a great degree on the type of wood, hardness being sort of an indicator. It seems to me hard woods (like Walnut) require more time than softer woods like cedar and pine. The longer the application, the darker the imprint and with extended time, the lines become wider as well as darker. Anyway, that's why its important to do at least one or more tests on a scrap of the same wood before committing to the final piece. Once you burn it, it's impossible to line up exactly to make it darker w/o getting a double image. If you make it too dark, you can sand the image some and reduce the width and darkness because the burn will have gone less deep on the outer parts of the lines. I find a burn time in the 5-10 second range is usually about right if the iron is hot enough.

You can do rough-finished wood with the iron as well as well-sanded and planed... and over porous or not finishes. Also its pretty permanent, it goes in a bit so it would have to be gouged out to remove. some advantage over a stamp or sharpie.

[pecker]

I don't sign anything. Nobody would know who I am anyway.
But Woodcraft sells engraved brass markers for just a couple dollars apiece, for those of you who want your name on your work.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=2027