Metalworking (cutting sheet steel) question

[cgallery]

I would like to cut a simple shape out of a steel protection plate (the kind you attach to studs to protect wiring/plumbing before the drywall goes on). My direct-drive bandsaw does not have adjustable speeds, so it would appear it is out. The pieces are kinda small, so using a hand-held sabre saw is probably out. The cutting involves a radius, so a hacksaw blade is probably out (plus I'd like a method to use in the future that goes a little faster).

I was thinking of mounting my sabre saw on a board, flipping it upside down, and trying that. I can finish-up any rough edges on the belt sander. I've never used a sabre saw to cut metal, though, does it grab and bind like hacksaw blades can?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

[pelligrini]

How thick is the steel?

It's a totally different material, but I cut some curves into some 1/8" aluminum with a fine tooth blade on my scroll saw.

[capncarl]

If you have a metal cutting blade for your band saw it will work. You can also fasten the metal plate to a piece of ply wood and cut it with your sabre saw with a metal cutting blade.

capncarl

[LCHIEN]

Try using a nibbler. There are manual and air-powered versions.This is a little reciprocating punch that nibbles a 1/4" wide by 1/16th-1/8" per nibble step through sheet metal steel and aluminum. Pretty easy to steer and guide. The manual versions will wear out your hand but are good for a few inches of cutting.

Good for sheet metal ductwork, computer and electronics cases, etc.

Pneumatic versions:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46061 (only $20!, I have one, it works)

Hand nibbler:
http://www.jab-tech.com/product.php?productid=1393 ($8)


Start at the edge of the sheet or drill a hole approx 3/8" dia. to start to cut an inside opening.
Since its cut between the punch and the die opening, there's not a lot of moving-around up and down or front to back forces on the workpiece, easy to hold medium sized pieces, you might want vice grips or something for small pieces, still.

[dbhost]

I've got metal cutting blades for my jig saw, and they work fine. I usually have to clean up the edges very lightly with my rotary tool

[Tom Slick]

you could try attaching it to a spoil board so it's not as floppy when cutting with your jig saw. it will also give you a larger surface to hold onto/clamp down.

[iceman61]

Sometimes I have cut small parts out of washers & hacksaw blades. When I need to cut small parts I just use a 6" bench grinder to take off the majority of material, then do any detail work with a Dremel with a small metal cutting disk. Just be sure & keep a small container of water near to quench the metal in to cool it off & to keep from softening the metal. You can use a pair of vise-grip pliers to hold the part you are working on.

[just started]

Use a 1/4" metal cutting blade in your band saw and it will work just fine. I've been using the same saw for thin metal (up to ~ 1/4") of various types and general woodworking for over 30 years with no problems.

[cgallery]

Use a 1/4" metal cutting blade in your band saw and it will work just fine. I've been using the same saw for thin metal (up to ~ 1/4") of various types and general woodworking for over 30 years with no problems.

So the next question is, does this create a mess or any other problems for a saw that is normally used for cutting wood? I imagine not, cause otherwise you wouldn't be doing it. But I was just wondering if there is anything I should expect. Is it noisy?

[ironhat]

It's a little noisier but because the metal is in full contact with the table the vibration is virtually nil. Also, the blade is cutting on the down stroke which tends to push the material even moreso against the table. It has been a while since I've done this so maybe 'just started' can pick up my slack.

[cgallery]

It's a little noisier but because the metal is in full contact with the table the vibration is virtually nil. Also, the blade is cutting on the down stroke which tends to push the material even moreso against the table. It has been a while since I've done this so maybe 'just started' can pick up my slack.

How about the feed rate, and cooling. Does the piece being cut tend to heat up a lot? And not that I'm going to do it this time, but can I cut stainless this way?

[capncarl]

If you do cut it on your band saw use a wood piece under it to keep it from getting pulled down beside the blade, like a throat plate. Just like you would do when cutting too small to hold pieces of wood on the band saw. You could even fasten it to the wood with screws.

The metal shavings should be cleaned out of your saw, they could mess up the wheels if left inside.

Feed the metal slow, as a true metal cutting band saw runs really slow compared to woodworking saws.

capncarl

[Uncle Cracker]

I'd pull out my trusty plasma cutter and knock that job right out...

[ironhat]

Good suggestion from capncarl. With a backup piece you also prevent a burr formation on the back side. I agree with the slow feed rate since your blade is running faster than a metal cutting bandsaw.

[cgallery]

All good information, thanks guys!

I'm still kinda nervous about using my bandsaw. But I'm probably gonna try it.

Will I be able to cut stainless that way?