Threaded Inserts ????

[gwyneth]

I have discovered that the ones with barbs, straight from our small town hardware store, work beautifully if, instead of using a hammer, you position it over the hole and use a C-clamp head or vise to press it in, slowly tightening the pressure until it goes in all the way.

[RodKirby]

I have discovered that the ones with barbs, straight from our small town hardware store, work beautifully if, instead of using a hammer, you position it over the hole and use a C-clamp head or vise to press it in, slowly tightening the pressure until it goes in all the way.

-OR-

If you can get at the "rear" - using a fender washer and a 1/4" studded knob (or a bolt), just tighten it in

[movnup]

I ordered the shorter barbed versions this am (1/2 inch) and I'll try the clamped technique w/ expoxy for the back of the fences as I want to have a clean face design. For the areas that I can't clamp I'll try the ideas above so thanks everyone, pictures should be posted for both the drill press and router table as soon as I can install the parts !!!

[BT3 WOODOG]

I orderd mine from McMaster Carr.com . They worked great in My router table top for leveling the router plate w/plastic thumb screws. Also the ones I ordered take a allen wrench to install!

[JimD]

I like McMaster Carr but I got a new catalog from McFeely's today and have to comment they have a lot of variety. They have small sizes and also have Brass, Steel, and Stainless steel. Plus they have a couple of varieties that you drive in with a hex wrench.

Jim

[THyman]

Does anybody know if there is an article or chart showing what size hole to drill for thread insert? Also does anyone know what shopnotes or wood magazine the article was in?

Thanks.

[MikeMcCoy]

Here you go - there are separate charts for softwood and hardwood.

http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html

[LCHIEN]

Here you go - there are separate charts for softwood and hardwood.

http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html

More importantly, there are separate (different) parts for hardwoods and softwoods, and they don't say which ones are best for Plywood!

http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/softWood.html
http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html

I think there are some differences in application between the threaded inserts with threaded bodies and the ones we also sometimes call T-nuts withthe little barbs and the flange.

The t-nut/barbed/flange ones have no pullout strength at all from the insertion side, they must be pulled into the wood meaning pul from the other side.

The external thread screw-in threaded inserts like Mike McCoy references and the OP is trying to use, have theoretical very high pull out strength from side opposite the insertion side, but should also be pretty good from the insertion side meaning they can be used blind (whereas the T-nuts cannot).

Now some of those flanged T-nuts can be had with mounting holes in the flange instead of barbs... that would help hold it in but the screws are generally pretty small.

Note also in the E-Z lok instructions it advises for the Hardwod ones that you should sink it 1/16th below the surface for max strength. One of the posters advised using a washer to set it flush - that would not be a good idea to set it flush, then.

I think the OP should call or e-mail EZ-lok asking for their recommendation for Plywood...

I think all the people who epoxy these things in are doing something the manufacturer did not intend for you to do... they were intended to be used dry or maybe with some thread lube (they recommended varnish) and the threads providing the holding power.