Dead Clothes Dryer - Multi Meter needed

[krogers]

I have a dead Kenmore clothers dryer. I have found a couple of sites with appliance repair advice. Most of them recommend checking various parts with a multi meter and I don't have one. I need your advice on this new tool. First of all it seems worthwhile to by one versus the cost of calling a repairman. Although I have not done much electrical work or repair I figure I will always be able to find a use of the meter. But I need your advice. Is there a particular brand of or style of multi meter that I should get? Is this something I can pick up at Home Depot or should I special order this item? Are they all pretty much the same or can someone recommend the "better" models? I figured I would turn to some of the people I trust the most about buying new tools. So Loring, what should I do? And while we are on the topic, do you think taking a dryer apart and diagnosing the problem is something for an average woodworker/DIYer?

[LinuxRandal]

Can you turn a ratchet, as well as handling a saw? Do you understand electricity principles? Electronic principles?
For what you are doing a relatively inexpensive DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) should work fine. And they do (like saws) run the gamit. I have a $25 used Craftsman, and a $600 automotive special dvom (NOT a labscope/ossciliscope).

Here is a site my grandfather sent me a few years back, I know there are others:
http://repair2000.com/dryer.html

[lkazista]

When my Dryer went, I picked up a multimeter at Sears on sale for $9.99, it did everything I needed to make the repair.

If you check in with your local part supply house, they may have some tips as to what to look at. My guy knew what I was going to order based on my model number, he said that was what ALWAYS goes.

Lee

[Tamarack]

Before you get all wrapped up in taking the dryer apart, check the power at the wall outlet. Twice I've had dryers die on me and both times it was a bad circuit breaker in the distribution panel. It looked good until you turn the dryer on, then the input voltage went to nearly zero. Mine is not the best quality breaker panel but I know this company sold a lot of them and yours may have a similar problem.

Paul in Idaho (For six more weeks!)

[TheRic]

The big difference in Multimeter (other than the brand, and features) is the accuracy. A cheap brand might have an accuracy of 2%, a decent brand 1.5%, good brand .5% (I'm making these number up, but I'm not off by much, I'm sure Lorring will correct me )

Let's say you want to check an outlet in your house. The local electric company says the electric will average between 115v and 119v (electric in the US is normally 110v-120v have seen numbers from 105 to 125 as normal in rare cases). Let's say at that moment you test it's 118v. Your meter will read anywhere from: (and these are the extremes).

2.0% 115.6 120.4
1.5% 116.2 119.8
0.5% 117.4 118.6

All numbers are good, either you have the voltage, or you don't. Unless your working with stuff where the voltage is VERY important (and your not) the difference in numbers does not mean anything.

With what you want to do, ANY cheap brand will work. Radio Shack, Sears, HD, Lowe's, Menard, etc, etc.

I have to remind you be VERY CAREFUL around electric, specially 220v (what your dryer probably is)

[WayneJ]

A good point to check the power to the machine. I got fooled a while back by that. The breaker was on but the GFCI had triped. It was up line from the dryer outlet.
Wayne

edit This was a gas dryer

[atgcpaul]

Look for the Nov 2005 issue of Family Handyman (order a back issue or go to
the library). It has a whole article on diagnosing and repairing problems with
electric and gas dryers. They walk you through using a multimeter to find the
problem in good enough detail. I had a gas dryer with bad coils. Fixed it right
away once I was able to track down the parts.

Paul

[jAngiel]

I have a $30 craftsman meter and it does all I need, and accurate enough for me. I also have an old book that helps with everything I try to look at myself, it's called "How to fix practically everything" or something like that. There may be a newer edition out but my edition gets me in the ballpark of what to check and how to check it. There is also a website, www.fixitnow.com, that has links to manuals, parts, info on how to fix appliances.

[frumper64]

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they have a really cheap VOM (around $5 or so). It would probably do anything you need to do. I have a decent meter, but generally reach for the HF cheapie, since I am usually just checking for gross measurements, such as "is the outlet hot" or checking circuits in the car. The nice thing about the HF cheapie is that if you do hook it up wrong and fry it, you're not out much money. Also, I will second the recommendation of the "How to Fix Practically Anything" (or something like that) book. It's published by Reader's Digest and has been extremely helpful over the years for all kinds of things, including fixing dryers, dishwashers and refrigerators.

[LCHIEN]

I have a dead Kenmore clothers dryer. I have found a couple of sites with appliance repair advice. Most of them recommend checking various parts with a multi meter and I don't have one. I need your advice on this new tool. First of all it seems worthwhile to by one versus the cost of calling a repairman. Although I have not done much electrical work or repair I figure I will always be able to find a use of the meter. But I need your advice. Is there a particular brand of or style of multi meter that I should get? Is this something I can pick up at Home Depot or should I special order this item? Are they all pretty much the same or can someone recommend the "better" models? I figured I would turn to some of the people I trust the most about buying new tools. So Loring, what should I do? And while we are on the topic, do you think taking a dryer apart and diagnosing the problem is something for an average woodworker/DIYer?

A DMM (digital multimeter) is a very useful tool.
They are available under $20 with amazing accuracy and versatility.
HF or Sears will have them. Most have a beeper for continuity checking, a great aid.
Really, I imagine for checking a dryer, mostly you will be checking continuity which really requires less accuracy than measuring actual resistance of voltage, it's either open or closed/shorted.
If you are just checking continuity, continuity meters can be made or bought even cheaper than a DMM and are simpler to use.

As for your last question, sure.

[scorrpio]

I have a 14 years old analog Micronta I bought at Radio Shack for $15, and it so far has served me well. However, I am thinking of picking up a digital model that also measures temperature. (for HVAC work)

Unless you do advanced electronics where you might need to measure accurately to .01V, really no reason to go fancy.

Main things to look for in a meter: for basic home electrics, you need AC voltage up to 250V, and any sort circuit continuity check. Everything else is extra.
* Digital readouts are generally easier to read than squinting at an arrow and remembering what scale to read it against.
* Backlighted readouts? Fluff. Do you really think you'll be fumbling for live 120V wires in the dark?
* Sound alert - test for current/continuity etc without having to look at the meter or remotely - very nice.
* Convenience: some meters come with a compartment to stow away test leads. Less chance to lose or damage them that way. Some meters have a way of attaching them to things (hook, magnet etc), definitely a plus. Some have leads with several tips (needle probes, alligator clips, etc)

If you want something fancier than basic, and don't need it immediately, check online - Amazon or Ebay might have it cheaper.

[DUD]

I use a HF digital multimeter, I buy them on sale for $2.99, I've seen the same meter in flea markets for $10.00 to $15.00. HTH, Bill

[bigsteel15]

After all this talk about multimeters, you have never mentioned what the actual problem is with the dryer.
I used to rebuild primarily Kenmore/Inglis/Whirlpool dryers for a living and should be able to help diagnose you problem.
I can tell you that if your dryer is more than 10 YO that this will probably be a very simple repair. The newer ones, I'm not going to be sure who the OEM is.

BTW, the only thing you need on a meter for this particular job is line voltage and continuity check.
EDIT...I should learn to read Lorings posts before I post.

[scorrpio]

I blame you guys for this. This thread just got me to pull th trigger on an Extech True RMS DMM.
AC/DC voltage/current up to 600V/10A
Frequency 10Hz-10MHz
Temperature -4 - 1400F
Capacitance, resistance, duty cycle, diode test, continuity with sound alert, data hold, relative zero, autoranging, autopolarity.

$35 shipped from Amazon.

[bigsteel15]

I'm going to list the possible and most common problems for this particular dryer, besides the obvious checking of the power right at the source.
No heat
- Burnt off wire on the power block in back.
- Burnt off wire at the element or high limit thermostat on the element (if this is the case, check the element. Don't trust the meter, pull it out and visually check it. Gently pull various spots of the element. They like to break inside the insulators.
- Burnt out high limit thermostat (mounted on the element housing)
- Burnt wire anywhere else.
- If it is no heat, try a different setting (permanent press/delicate) to eliminate the different cycling thermostats.

No motor
- The burnt wire at the block
- check that the belt is intact. Newer models have a kill switch that won't let the motor run if the belt breaks.
- Burnt wire on the motor switch

These are all the simple electrical things
I have seen a wire break in the middle, inside the casing that even a 20 year pro couldn't locate in the field and I had to check continuity of every wire until I found it.
If it is mechanical, that's a whole new game, but very simple and cheap on most models.