Just got the Craftsman Professional 315.218290

[Fried Chicken]

And I followed the review from from 2008 on the lumberjocks forum to this forum here (a post mentioned this). I just got the unit in the garage, it can use a proper cleaning, but I'm looking forward to having it.

Apparently the Ryobi BT3100 and the craftsman are very similar. I got this for exactly the reason the guy in the review describes: have a two car garage that I also use to put cars into, and otherwise have limited space; Additionally I need the router table bit. I have the bosch router table right now (the plastic one), and it didn't work for my purposes which frankly infuriated me. The insert didn't sit flush properly, the piece I was using snagged and wobbled as I pushed it over it. This made me so angry, I will sell it immediately.

The Hitachi table saw is excellent, but I think this has a higher rip capacity.

[leehljp]

Welcome to Sawdust Zone. Join in the fun here. There are a few Craftsman 315.218290 owners here, but for all practical purposes, it is the same basic as the 3000/3100.

[Fried Chicken]

Thank you for the welcome!

Saw that this is very similar to the Ryobi and that there are a number of parts available. Thank goodness, since this will become my main workhorse, I plan on getting it right up to spec.

Since I wrote this thread, I've gone and looked at some videos on all the features of the saw and how it all works. I. am. thrilled. This is amazing and fulfills this nagging annoyance I've had with all the newer table saws that cost several times more. Truly thrilled!

Also: pics posted b/c everyone likes pictures!

[LCHIEN]

Welcome, and thanks for the great pictures.

You might be interested in reading my BT3_FAQ (frequently asked questions) document which is linked in my signature line at the end of my posts (just below). Its chock full of answers to questions that arise for BT3x/CMan 21890 owners ask and has a detailed section on the differences between the various clone variations. Just click on it to download it.

I See you are in Texas, whereabouts?

Loring

[Fried Chicken]

Hey Loring, I'm about 1 hour and 15 minutes north of you in aggieland. Thanks for linking to the FAQ, I just finished reading it top to bottom. Fantastic document.
The more I learn about this unit, the more thrilled I am. Holy cow. This is such a magnificent piece of engineering and shop tech. I'm slightly besides myself here. I've been so underwhelmed with the current offering of table saws; I don't know what all these "pro" reviewers have been comparing. Different bits of plastic disappointment here and there. Dewalt wants $600 for what I think is a total joke. The highly rated metabo hpt (hitachi) table saw I have does make cuts and has a good motor, but the whole thing feels so flimsy, wobbly, and plastic-y. It was $250 when reviewed and now is pushing north of $450. Bosch, sawstop, dewalt, makita... charge over $500 for their plastic incarnations.... Can anyone take this seriously?!

I just happened to be checking the used market because my router table was such a disappointment and wouldn't fit my needs.

This is what I've been looking for. The more I read the more excited I get (mixed with a sadness that the 90s truly were a better time and are now over). It's like an American Festool, priced for normal people! I already watched the official Ryobi video on the unit (on youtube). So good. I fully intend to make this my main unit.

Reading through the FAQ, it's rather unfortunate that parts are no longer available new, but wow is that ever useful! Right off the bat I can think of a few things I'd like: The micropositioner for the fence, the router vacuum accessory (this is a concern of mine going when ditching the Router Table), one of the screws Nuts? on the SMT are messed up, and I think the clamps for holding the SMT are bent, they don't seem to want to work right despite my spending half an hour fiddling with them. I didn't try to straighten them in the vise like I was tempted to in case they're supposed to be that way. I'm missing the little red miter measurement thing, and also the flush insert for the router table.

Also I need the riving (not writhing lol) knife, or something similar. I'm not a safety freak, and I've never used any blade guards or kickback guards, but the riving knife is very nice. On my Metabo HPT (Hitachi) table saw, the riving knife is bent (from new) so that when I push a workpiece through it, I have to (while it's in the saw being cut) reach over and physically push the riving knife to the left so the piece will feed through. sAFeTY!

Anyway, I am thrilled. Giddy even. I can't wait to start making my first cuts, and getting rid of my current table saw and router table. I'll probably make 3x what I paid just by selling them.

[leehljp]

"I'm about 1 hour and 15 minutes north of you in aggieland". I was in the area last week for a grandson's wedding in the Hearne/Franklin area.

[LCHIEN]

This saw appeals to a certain segment of the market. I think its thoughtful, careful users who won't mistreat it or force things. People who are ham handed and hard on equipment won't like it and will break stuff in short order. Treat it well and it will treat you well. I've had mine for 24 years.

Its a saw that is very modular and adaptable. lots of attachment points.

Recently I've been making a whole lot of jigs for it, they are posted in the BT3 jigs articles section of Sawdustzone; there are a rich set of history of users' contributions.

Things to keep in mind are the Forum on replacement parts as the saw ages; fortunately this was a long lived design and literally several hundred thousands of these have been produced making a large user base and an active used parts market. The wide availability of 3-D printers is an interesting development for those who are needing to replace the plastic parts that sometimes break on the saw.

Keep an active look on eBay by doing a search for ryobi BT3* and lots of parts will pop up over time. Also surprisingly, parts come up on Amazon for a similar search. I've been buying replacement parts for my saw should they break. Some of them are pricey but if you get a feel for the market price you can eventually pick up a bargain. I really can't see myself buying another saw to replace it.

[Fried Chicken]

This saw appeals to a certain segment of the market. I think its thoughtful, careful users who won't mistreat it or force things. People who are ham handed and hard on equipment won't like it and will break stuff in short order. Treat it well and it will treat you well. I've had mine for 24 years.

Literally me with my tools. For my Hitachi/Metabo table saw, I make infrequent but precise cuts. For all my tools that's generally how I work. I was taught not to abuse tools, and always clean them before putting them away. To quote the mechanic who taught me "My tools they give me my life, so I respect my tools".

[Superbowlen]

Fried Chicken - I just purchased this saw from a Craiglist private party who was moving. When I got home I found the rip fence would not tighten down on the rails. I downloaded the manual and have taken it apart and put it back together on
both ends. It doesn't seem to be pushing the rod when I pull the handle down like it should. Any thoughts or suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated! I uploaded a video to Youtube but it would not allow me to link it from here.

[mpc]

A common issue on the rip fence is the metal ear on the handle cam (called "Clamper A" in parts diagrams) being bent backwards. This ear is what pushes on the internal rod as the handle is lowered... somebody gorilla-ing the handle, pushing it down way too hard/too far, bends the lever. The normal handle position is pretty much horizontal when the fence is locked; if the handle needs to be pushed down well past horizontal odds are the ear is bent.

Look at the latter posts (6, 7, and 8) in this thread: bent Clamper A discussion

The pics show a replacement part with a small bend in the ear; some BT3 owners have Clamper A parts with even less of a kink. Read twistsol's reply in that thread for details on how the rip fence locking sequence should operate. It is part #19 in the parts diagram attached to post #6.

If that isn't your issue, post a picture of your rip fence innards - the mechanism in the underside of the black cast section. We'll look to see if anything appears to be missing or incorrectly assembled.

mpc

[Superbowlen]

mpc - thanks for your help. I spent some quality time with the fence. Read thru the comments and took the **** thing apart and put it back together 3 times. I got it working finally. I bent the tab in on Clamper A with a bench vice. It probably didn't need it but that was the first thing I did. After the many times of taking it apart I realized that I was putting the plastic plate (plate not shown in photo) that covers Clamper A on backwards and also that this rip fence clamps "up" to the locked position. That seems backward to me but that is how it locks.

[LCHIEN]

Glad you got it going.
Stick around!

[mpc]

What do you mean by "that this rip fence clamps "up" to the locked position" ?? When unlocked, the handle should be pointing almost straight-up as Superbowlen's picture shows. To lock the fence in position you push it down to roughly a horizontal position. Your first two pictures show the handle in a normal "fence locked" handle position. Folks that don't understand the nuances of the BT3 fence system - and thus have not adjusted it properly - will push the handle down past horizontal... sometimes so much that the handle end points towards the floor. That's what bends the Clamper part.

At the far end of the fence (the outfeed end of the saw) is a small mechanism with a finger that is supposed to latch onto the rear fence rail. At the top of that mechanism is a screw that adjusts some of the freeplay in the fench mechanism. The finger should slip past, and then under, the top part of the aluminum rear fence rail. As you push the fence knob down, the mechanism inside the fence squares the fence to the front rail, grabbing it a bit, then once that end is tight the Clamper part pushes on the long rod to make this finger latch onto the rear rail. A little more downward motion on the handle fully tightens the fence. So the front part of the fence - the stuff in the black housing by the handle - grabs the front rail and assures the fence is parallel to the saw blade. Then the rear finger clamps onto the rail to make the fence very stiff laterally and to keep the far/outfeed end from lifting especially if you have fingerboards or other hold-down gizmos attached to the fence. Many other table saws lack any sort of clamp/latch at the outfeed end of the fence - the BT3 fence is superior in this respect. It also makes the fence far more rigid when using it with the router table.

mpc

[LCHIEN]

perhaps he means the rear clamper pulls up on the fence lip to lock.

[Superbowlen]

I went back and watched the Ryobi BT3100 videos and you are certainly correct. I'll have to take a deeper dive on that rip fence when I have time. For now I'm just happy that it will lock in place.

[Jim Frye]

OP, welcome and take the time to check out the articles section here. There are tons of how to write ups about the BT3x00 saw (and the Craftsman clone) that will make using the saw so much better.

[dbhost]

OP welcome to the forum. Stick around and enjoy the company! Nice saw BTW.

[jon_ramp]

I had a problem with "clamper A" as well. Mine was bent just like the photo in this thread. I had a tough time getting the roller pin out to take the assembly apart. I later discovered that the handle had to unscrew from the assembly because it was locking the pin in place and was preventing me from punching it out.