Hello

[bonethg899]

Hello

My original plan for the frame was what I saw on the lowes DIY page. The show wood glue and pocket holes. http://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/...ng-set/project

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[twistsol]

That looks like a solid plan with no fancy joinery involved. Clearly someone at Lowe's put some thought into it. Be sure to post pics with your progress and completed project.


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[bonethg899]

I sure will.. I'm planing on starting Friday I'm hoping to have it done by thanksgiving we are having it at our house but I don't want to rush it since everyone's eyes will be on it... I'll have to distract them with the big fish tank.


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[dbhost]

Welcome Trevor! I am terribly sorry your post slipped by without me noticing earlier please forgive my lateness...

Don't worry about "expensive" tools so much as good, well set up tools. A cheap circular saw for example, with a good straight edge guide can do tons of straight cuts for you, a good quality router and bits can give you dadoes, edge profiles, and tons of other goodies too numerous to list.

I for one can't cay enough good about my Hitachi KM12VC router. If you can source one of those up for under $100.00 grab it if you can! I would love an extra one...

If you have access to Wood Magazine, they have a series of projects called "Basic Built" that really help you build your skills using basic cheap tools. A great way to keep going on the cheap...

[bonethg899]

me and my brother got the frame of the table done today tomorrow we will get the top slates cut and attached. Then Sunday I will start to sand and stain


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[leehljp]

I want to give you a heads up on attaching boards to a set frame. The perpendicular boards will move, expand and shrink with humidity changes from season to season and with AirConditioner usage.

Here is a link from LeeValley that shows one method of attachment that allows for the expansion and contraction and movement of the boards on top in contrast to the movement of the frame. They do NOT move the same.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware...=3,41306,41309

Been looking for this one for some time to post:
http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000346AA.pdf

There are other methods, but allowing for the expansion of the table - at the points it is attached to a solid frame - saves some embarrassment later. Plywood on top of a frame like that will not be a problem. But for most boards, gaps or cracks will occur sooner or later. A caveat is that a few, very few woods do not move with humidity changes. Mesquite is one.

Here is a good link on the subject:
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/arti...out-shrinkage/

[capncarl]

Looking good! Don't skip the diagonal brace at each leg like the drawings call for. It may seem real sturdy now but it will limber up with age and need this diagonal tied into the leg and both aprons.
A local furniture store here sells really nice farm tables built locally. I've notied that he puts about 1/8" bevel on each top board. I use to poke fun of this technique saying that it was a crumb trough when in fact it was about the only way to hide the expansion in the top boards that leehjlp is talking about. My last dining room table is solid antique pine and was as slick as glass when it left my shop. Now you can feel the joint in each board due to expansion. Also, as leehjlp noted, don't attach the table top to the base. It must be allowed to move. If you do the top will expand across the wood grain and pull the aprons out of the legs!
capncarl

[capncarl]

Looking good! Don't skip the diagonal brace at each leg like the drawings call for. It may seem real sturdy now but it will limber up with age and need this diagonal tied into the leg and both aprons.
A local furniture store here sells really nice farm tables built locally. I've notied that he puts about 1/8" bevel on each top board. I use to poke fun of this technique saying that it was a crumb trough when in fact it was about the only way to hide the expansion in the top boards that leehjlp is talking about. My last dining room table is solid antique pine and was as slick as glass when it left my shop. Now you can feel the joint in each board due to expansion. Also, as leehjlp noted, don't attach the table top to the base. It must be allowed to move. If you do the top will expand across the wood grain and pull the aprons out of the legs!
capncarl

[leehljp]

Looking good!
A local furniture store here sells really nice farm tables built locally. I've notied that he puts about 1/8" bevel on each top board. I use to poke fun of this technique saying that it was a crumb trough when in fact it was about the only way to hide the expansion in the top boards that leehjlp is talking about.
capncarl

LOL, Never heard it called that before, but it does attract crumbs!"

[bonethg899]

We did plan on putting the corner braces in in fact we did it today. Today we also got the planks done and installed a center brace for the planks


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[capncarl]

Looks like you are almost there! Can't tell from the photo, did you attach the cross brace to the leg? The plans you showed noted this, but I would recommend upsizing the screw from a 2" to a much larger lag screw or epoxy a threaded rod in the leg and use a nut and washer on the cross brace. That's not framing lumber for top planks, what is it?
capncarl

[bonethg899]

I haven't yet but I will I forgot to pick them up. I actually have a day off tomorrow instead of having to do all this after work. I will get them tomorrow. And I believe they are just grade 2 white wood


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[capncarl]

I can't tell on the photo if you intend on installing the top boards across the long section of the table or across the short section?
The reason the plans called for installing the boards across the long section, and for the same reason all the wood tables you see are like this, is each board expands across its width, not its length. Installing boards across the short section requires a lot more boards that will expand across their width. My poorly educated guess would say that for this table if the boards were installed across the long section you could expect 3/16" growth/shrinkage in the table width. While if the boards were installed across the short section you could expect 5/16" growth/shrinkage. With this much movement the details in the your plans that called for each board to be fastened to the bottom of the aprons and cross brace would probably fail miserably over time.
Leehjlp's post #21 discussed fastening the table top to the frame. Much good information there!
Don't feel bad if the table top moves some, they all do. Leehjlp's post tells you how to attach the top to the frame where top movement is allowed without the top destroying itself!
capncarl

[bonethg899]

so here is the table. I was curious what you guys thought the best sealers for the top would be the legs and skirts are sealed with polyurethane


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[capncarl]

For my pine tables I stain first than apply several coats of Watco, then wax.