So, this one's nothing major. Couple (several) weekends worth of work. Tons of pocket holes and lots of glue. Made it out of cedar, coated it with Penofin. It's functional, but still a work in progress...need to replace part of the top with granite or slate to have a decent heat proof working surface. Just wanted to get to grilling on the new egg ASAP!
First Project I've Shown Here
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Very nice unit. I love the look of cedar-especially when given a top coat to pop the grain. Will you replace both work surfaces or just the top one?From the "deep south" part of Canada
Richard in Smithville
http://richardspensandthings.blogspot.com/ -
Good looking cart, what's for dinner?Donate to my Tour de Cure
marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©
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Very nice cart!! How about some more pics of the miter saw station?? Looks like it a multi-tool kind of work station with some modular (?) storage??
earlComment
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Ditto on the good looking results on the Egg Cart! Cedar is a beautiful wood to work with and finish.
The Ultimate Tool Stand has been around for a long time and there have been many adaptations of it by members here. Everything from a multi tool station like you did to a base/wide table for the BT 3.Don, aka Pappy,
Wise men talk because they have something to say,
Fools because they have to say something.
PlatoComment
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Very nice so far. I have seen a lot of guys build these and have always wondered how well the pocket holes / screws worked in the long run for something that rolls around. keep us posted on that!
I have only seen one other that didn't have a wooden top, and it was actually a cedar top wrapped with stainless steel.Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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Very nice so far. I have seen a lot of guys build these and have always wondered how well the pocket holes / screws worked in the long run for something that rolls around. keep us posted on that!
I have only seen one other that didn't have a wooden top, and it was actually a cedar top wrapped with stainless steel.Comment
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Please take this as it is meant, which is honest curiosity as what you are saying you did I have always been taught will not work. If what I was taught is wrong I want to know.
I would suspect that the end grain issue would make the glue close to useless... How do you get around the end grain glue issue without screws, dowels, M&T or some other type of joint?
Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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It looks (from the first picture) that the OP used PH screws to connect the aprons to the legs. That would make the ends of the apron end-grain against the long grain of the legs. Basically butt joints with PH screws.
So as dbhost says, the traditional conventional wisdom is that end grain does not hold well for glue joints - good glue joints would involve long grain to long grain. At least part of the problem is that end grains soaks up the glue so not much is left for joint strength.
That's why butt joints are not used much in good joinery; preferred joints would use lapping, or ends set in rabbets so that the sides of the ends would be glued. Also M&T, even dowels let long grain-to long grain gluing come into play on joints.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Nice well done project. You should enjoy using that.
EdDo you know about kickback? Ray has a good writeup here... https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...mare-explained
For a kickback demonstration video http://www.metacafe.com/watch/910584...demonstration/Comment
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Congratulation on the DIY BGE table. I made mine several years ago and I'm so glad I did. May I make a recommendation? I would adding a single 18x18" or 20x20" flooring tile to the right side of the table top. That way you can place hot items on the table (and trust me-you will) without worrying about burning or discoloring the wood. Plus tile is easy to clean. You can just place it on top or get fancy and route out a shallow area and drop in the tile.sigpicComment
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It looks (from the first picture) that the OP used PH screws to connect the aprons to the legs. That would make the ends of the apron end-grain against the long grain of the legs. Basically butt joints with PH screws.
So as dbhost says, the traditional conventional wisdom is that end grain does not hold well for glue joints - good glue joints would involve long grain to long grain. At least part of the problem is that end grains soaks up the glue so not much is left for joint strength.
That's why butt joints are not used much in good joinery; preferred joints would use lapping, or ends set in rabbets so that the sides of the ends would be glued. Also M&T, even dowels let long grain-to long grain gluing come into play on joints.
Congratulation on the DIY BGE table. I made mine several years ago and I'm so glad I did. May I make a recommendation? I would adding a single 18x18" or 20x20" flooring tile to the right side of the table top. That way you can place hot items on the table (and trust me-you will) without worrying about burning or discoloring the wood. Plus tile is easy to clean. You can just place it on top or get fancy and route out a shallow area and drop in the tile.Comment
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Here's how I built a BGE cart for my sister...
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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