Roluter fence upgrade prototype #1...

[dbhost]

Too short... I want the featherboard to, in the furthest down position, just kiss the table. This was made with scrap melamine board, and a Rockler T track kit LOML gave me for Christmas. For those that can't tell, the brackets are Ryobi OEM router fence brackets for the BT router mounting kit.

[DUD]

Lookin Good. Bill

[shoottx]

Too short... I want the featherboard to, in the furthest down position, just kiss the table.

Why would you want it that low. You won't run anything that small through the router. if it is with in 1/4 of the table that should close enough.

[dbhost]

Okay, I swapped the correct featherboards in place and I still need to adjust the height up, about 1.5 - 2".... MDF and tempered hardboard here I come!

[dbhost]

Well, after sufficient testing of Router Table Fence version 0.1.1, I have found the following issues.

#1. With the correct featherboards in place, I have about 3/4" of slot left in the featherboard with it sitting on the table top.
#2. I am simply not crazy about the Melamine.
#3. Sharp 90 degree corner already found a hip, OUCH!

So I have come up with the following TODO list.

#1. Get to the BORG, and grab a half sheet 3/4" MDF, and if possible a quarter sheet 3/16" tempered hardboard, and a SMALL bottle of Gorilla Glue. (that stuff sets up too fast to buy in bulk!).

#2. Go home, cut 1 piece of MDF 6" x 48", Cut this into 2 @ 6" x ~24". (I know, saw kerf.. That will be trimmed up later...)

#3. Cut the hardboard to 6" x 24".

#4. Laminate the MDF, to MDF, let that dry. Then laminate the hardobard on top of the MDF. Make sure it's all square and true...

#5. Trim the ends so that we have a 6" x 23.5" x 1 - 11/16" block.

#6. Set up Dado Stack, run test cut and test fit T track on scrap.

#7. Cut dado for T track, double and triple check fit.

#8. Use orginal to get back side measurements, set blade tilt to 30 degrees, and cut to just over final length.. I can sneak up on final if I need to...

#9. Test fit T track, if everything fits right, screw and glue T track into place, and mount fence on fence brackets, if not, make needed adjustments...

#10. Let glue dry, set up featherboards, run some test setups, take some pics, and start work on right side miter slot table to allow use of Miter Slot based featherboard for the router. That might just end up being an extension table of hardboard and MDF mounted to the BT rail brackets...

[lrogers]

You made a good start. Prototypes are all about finding the little things that bug you.

[dbhost]

You made a good start. Prototypes are all about finding the little things that bug you.

Well, the new one is going to be a bit, uh, thick...

I have the lamination going, I used 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, and 1 of 3/16" tempered hardboard, It's in clamps right now, I figure I should be able to cut the final dadoes and miters in it tomorrow night.

Funny thing, the tempered hardboard 24" is 1/4" shorter than the MDF 24"... Go figure.

I stood the glue up next to the first one, I figure I will set the featherboard on the lam and set it 5/8" from the bottom edge, and then mark where the center of the T bolt should be through the slot.... I don't anticipate EVER wanting to table route anything thinner than 3/4" stock anyway...

And sine I have the MDF handy.... It's time to start thinking about that Rod Kirby inspired miter slot table to the right of the accessory table for the other featherboard setup...

UPDATE:

The lamination is too thick... Next version will be a single 3/4" MDF with the hardboard...

[dbhost]

Okay, I went out before heading in to work this morning... The slot is 3/8" too high, however I can pull the bracket, trim that 3/8", and remount the bracket and be good to go. I spent some time trimming it up last night and got the clearance I need for my biggest bits, and realized something important. I cut the wrong stupid angle.

I SAID 30 degrees, and 30 would have been good, so why on earth did I cut it at 45?

Now the problem is that the T track is glued in, so if I am going to salvage this, I will need to trim the 3/8" off the bottom, AND cut that 30 deg angle THROUGH the aluminum as well as the MDF / Hardboard... NOT a task I particularly want to put my 40T Freud blade through. Anyone have any suggestions for a blade that will do this and not run me into the poor house?

[LarryG]

A carbide-toothed blade will cut aluminum (or other non-ferrous metal) without drama and without damage. You have, what, two cuts to make, each a few inches long? Use your Freud. If you were cutting a LOT of aluminum, I'm sure the blade would dull more quickly than when cutting wood. But for two cuts like you're facing, I would not hesitate to use my Forrest blades, whether on the miter saw or the table saw.

[cabinetman]

I don't anticipate EVER wanting to table route anything thinner than 3/4" stock anyway...

I run materials as thin as 1/32" (laminate, and thin veneers less than 3/4") through my router table to edge joint or profile all the time. There may be advantages to a slot on the face of the fence, but I've never found the need for one.

A carbide tipped blade will cut aluminum fairly easy, and a 60T is usually the one I have mounted when that needs to be done. Cutting aluminum and non ferrous metals in quantity will dull a blade faster than wood will, but for short crosscuts or limited ripping type cuts I don't notice an appreciable dulling. I've used carbide tiped blades on the table saw, circular saw, and a CMS.
.

[SARGE..g-47]

Nice fence... and what has been said about cutting aluminum on your TS blade. I cut aluminum on a new SC TS for almost two hours at IWF to demonstrate it being done. I would just put a junk blade on if you have one and cut what you need which is not much really. If you don't feel comfortable.. take small bites on several passes.

[LCHIEN]

...

Now the problem is that the T track is glued in, so if I am going to salvage this, I will need to trim the 3/8" off the bottom, AND cut that 30 deg angle THROUGH the aluminum as well as the MDF / Hardboard... NOT a task I particularly want to put my 40T Freud blade through. Anyone have any suggestions for a blade that will do this and not run me into the poor house?

there are "non-ferrous metal blades" made for just this if you are doing it day and night, but I would not hesitate to cut two aluminum miter tracks with your blade or any decent quality WW blade, it will do a beautiful job with no measurable wear and tear.