Router throat plates?

[Timmymacnj]

I recently picked up a BT3100, had the accessory table and router mounting plate, but no throat inserts. Any suggestions?

[LCHIEN]

Try Googling BT3100 Router table throat plates.

Several options randomly ocurring on eBay and 3-D printed ones on Etsy



I'd be tempted by this one - apparently 3-D printed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/167033660843?chn=ps&var=466752262333&norover=1&mke vt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=466752262333_1670336 60 843&targetid=2274564709393&device=c&mktype=pla&goo gleloc=9190002&poi=&campaignid=22817893408&mkgroup id=181453028623&rlsatarget=pla-2274564709393&abcId=10391678&merchantid=137735087& geoid=9190002&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22817893 408&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh_mQ5ky8QgB30qDQR1iE30Hk&gcli d=CjwKCAiA3-3KBhBiEiwA2x7FdOHq395eOvtcWsEaI3RaOko8GfMX77YmSSiG JNE3I96LR-IBvM3_jxoCjDQQAvD_BwE


Also read this, I sort of concur, see if you really need one:
https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...604#post317604

[Timmymacnj]

Try Googling BT3100 Router table throat plates.

Several options randomly ocurring on eBay and 3-D printed ones on Etsy



I'd be tempted by this one -[/URL]


Also read this, I sort of concur, see if you really need one:
https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...604#post317604

Thanks! I was looking at those 3d printed ones on ebay, but was tempted to hold out to find metal ones. Were the stock ryobi ones plastic or metal?

[mpc]

Do you have the accessory table rear clamp add-on? It is basically a small metal clip, a knob with a threaded shaft, and a T-nut that fits into the rear fence rail. This locks the accessory table, from below, to the rear fence rail. Without it, the accessory table can wiggle a bit when used with a router... not good. Especially if you are using the BT3's rip fence as a fence for router operations. If you don't have this clamp, I would find it first before worrying about the insert rings. You may find it is better to make a dedicated stand-alone router table or make one that fits between the BT3's fence rails and replaces the accessory table. The accessory table is rather small for a router table too. The two router fence things that came with the BT3 "accessory kit" (which included the insert rings, router mounting plate, a jigsaw mounting plate, a clear plastic bit guard, the rear clamp, and other misc hardware) are generally considered a joke. You would be better off making something that attaches to the BT3's rip fence and provides longer fence faces on either side of the router bit... and keeps them inline/co-planar. The things Ryobi provided need to be adjusted to be co-planar which is a constant nuisance. A few pieces of plywood or stable hardwood make a basic router fence that can be clamped to the BT3's rip fence. Rockler's "Universal Fence Clamp" gizmos (and similar things from several other manufactures) are great for attaching router table fences or sacrificial fences (what you would use in combination with dado blades while making rabbets) to the BT3 rip fence. I have a few sets scattered about my shop; they're that useful. And they go on sale a couple times a year.

Do you have just the stock BT3 fence rails or do you have extensions for them? There was a "wide table kit" that basically doubled the length of the fence rails. Many folks found that too big/too wide for their shops and thus cut those add-on rails in half. That was enough extra rip capacity without making the saw's footprint unwieldy. Folks would then sell the unused half of the rails to recover some of the wide table kit cost. That kit included pieces to mount the new rails onto the ends of the stock fence rails but there are several ways to make your own posted elsewhere on this site. Adding half-rails makes the right side of the saw ideal for a shop-made router table.

mpc

[LCHIEN]

If you use the Aux table with a router with a bearing like for roundovers, coves and chamfers, the rear lock is not necessary. But if you use the table and router with the fence kit that mounts to the BT3000 rip fence, then yeah, you need the clamp to keep the table and router from moving relative to the rip fence. The clamp locks the aux/router table to the back rail, and the attached front clamp locks to the front rail. Without the rear clamp (part of the router mounting accessory kit), the back end of the table can swing a little and cause divots in your work.

[Black walnut]

The OEM are plastic. If you choose to use a router in the accessory table be sure to use the clamp bracket, knob and t-nut. Check the articles section fro the instructions for the router mounting kit.

[Timmymacnj]

Do you have the accessory table rear clamp add-on? It is basically a small metal clip, a knob with a threaded shaft, and a T-nut that fits into the rear fence rail. This locks the accessory table, from below, to the rear fence rail. Without it, the accessory table can wiggle a bit when used with a router... not good. Especially if you are using the BT3's rip fence as a fence for router operations. If you don't have this clamp, I would find it first before worrying about the insert rings. You may find it is better to make a dedicated stand-alone router table or make one that fits between the BT3's fence rails and replaces the accessory table. The accessory table is rather small for a router table too. The two router fence things that came with the BT3 "accessory kit" (which included the insert rings, router mounting plate, a jigsaw mounting plate, a clear plastic bit guard, the rear clamp, and other misc hardware) are generally considered a joke. You would be better off making something that attaches to the BT3's rip fence and provides longer fence faces on either side of the router bit... and keeps them inline/co-planar. The things Ryobi provided need to be adjusted to be co-planar which is a constant nuisance. A few pieces of plywood or stable hardwood make a basic router fence that can be clamped to the BT3's rip fence. Rockler's "Universal Fence Clamp" gizmos (and similar things from several other manufactures) are great for attaching router table fences or sacrificial fences (what you would use in combination with dado blades while making rabbets) to the BT3 rip fence. I have a few sets scattered about my shop; they're that useful. And they go on sale a couple times a year.

Do you have just the stock BT3 fence rails or do you have extensions for them? There was a "wide table kit" that basically doubled the length of the fence rails. Many folks found that too big/too wide for their shops and thus cut those add-on rails in half. That was enough extra rip capacity without making the saw's footprint unwieldy. Folks would then sell the unused half of the rails to recover some of the wide table kit cost. That kit included pieces to mount the new rails onto the ends of the stock fence rails but there are several ways to make your own posted elsewhere on this site. Adding half-rails makes the right side of the saw ideal for a shop-made router table.

mpc

You are a life saver! I played with the router table today and noticed the wiggle and was ready to just deal with it. I had a black bracket in my box of accessories that I was unsure of, but after fitting it up, it's definitely the accessory table clamp. I don't have extra T-nuts and knobs, so I needed to borrow one from the router dust collector, but I tested it and locked on great.

I'd imagine mine are the stock rails? They're about 41" wide. The setup I picked up had the sliding miter table, dual miter slot table, main cutting area (with the riving knife and blade guard), and filler piece of plywood to fill the void between blade and router table, and the accessory table.

[LCHIEN]

the stock rails on the BT3000 and BT3100 and 21811 were 41 inches or so. The 21829 had slightly wider rails. about 6-7 inches longer.
I have a spare Aux table (2 total) covering the rails to the right of the blade and main table.

If you use the Aux table with a router with a bearing like for roundovers, coves and chamfers, the rear lock is not necessary. But if you use the table and router with the fence kit that mounts to the BT3000 rip fence, then yeah, you need the clamp to keep the table and router from moving relative to the rip fence. The clamp locks the aux/router table to the back rail, and the attached front clamp locks to the front rail. Without the rear clamp (part of the router mounting accessory kit), the back end of the table can swing a little and cause divots in your work.

[d_meister]

I use my aux router table a lot, and the rear clamp is essential. I have some of the original router rings from the accessory kit, and mine are steel. I 3D printed my own rings from my design in Tinkercad, which I copied from the originals. There may be some free designs on one of the 3D sites, but I'm not sure. Anyway, I much prefer the steel ones as their weight keeps them in place, whereas the light plastic ones can be lifted by dust collection, which could be inconvenient when the router is running.

[LCHIEN]

I have a router table I use now but I did have a router mounted in the BT3000 auxiliary table I used for a while.

I used the BT3000 mounted router loaded with Bearing guided chamfer bit or roundover bits, for edge treatments. When you use it this way you DO NOT NEED the auxiliary table clamp. Because the router and the table are fixed in relation to each other. Shown below:

However, if you use the router with the router kit fence that attaches to the rip fence, then you do need to lock down the auxiliary table with the clamp, because the back end of the table will have some wiggle and move with relation to the fence allowing the workpiece to be gouged by the movement.

As for the router inserts, are they necessary? I used them, but depending on your project they may not be necessary. The opening in the auxiliary table is only 2.5 inches. Why use insert rings? To fill the space between a small bit and the opening to (1) prevent cutoffs and dust from falling into the hole and (2) to support the workpiece closer to the bit to prevent it from dipping into the hole and gouging and catching. Most (2) is important and if you work with large pieces say 8 inches or longer, its not really a problem since you can push down on the back end of the piece as it enters and on the front as it exits from the bit. Even when making extrusions I always make a minimum of 12" and then cut on the miter saw to smaller needed pieces.
So its easy to work around lack of inserts. Unless you are forced to work with short pieces and or floppy (not stiff) pieces that droop under their own weight. In that case, you really need to reconsider if that's the best way to be doing things!!!!

[Black walnut]

I am going to strongly disagree with Loring here. For safety's sake if you are going to use a router in the accessory table you should always use the rear clamp. The table can walk on you even if you are not using a fence. That can be a rather dangerous thing. If you are just using a bearing guided bit are you also using the OEM dust control for the router? The table can walkfar enough to cut the edge of that.

Safety should be your primary concern with the use of any powertool. Why shortcut safety to save the < 1 minute to install the clamp?

[LCHIEN]

I am going to strongly disagree with Loring here. For safety's sake if you are going to use a router in the accessory table you should always use the rear clamp. The table can walk on you even if you are not using a fence. That can be a rather dangerous thing. If you are just using a bearing guided bit are you also using the OEM dust control for the router? The table can walkfar enough to cut the edge of that.

Safety should be your primary concern with the use of any powertool. Why shortcut safety to save the < 1 minute to install the clamp?

OK, I have two auxiliary/router tables on my saw.
They lock at one point on the front. On the rear, they are captured under a lip on the rear rail so they can't lift up. They can only swing side to side with whatever slop there is with a rectangle captured between two fixed parallel objects (the rails) one of which it is clamped to (the front clamp).
Now I just went out and pushed on the back ends of both of them and saw no visible amount of movement. So I think its perfectly fine for bearing guided edge trims because the motor and the table and the bit and the bearing are all in the same strongly coupled system. If you are doing edge trim work, you tend to bias any movement toward one side pushing on the bearing, any way, the bit the router and the table as one solid piece in relation to the rails.

If I was to use the router fence, attached to the saw rip fence, even though I see no movement, I would clamp the rear because the movement of the rear table could cause a few mils of movement spoiling the fence guiding. Just on the principle that one clamp point makes a pivot.

I really don't use the BT3 router table for routers anymore, since getting a Jessem router raiser base for my woodpecker router table it so much easier to change bits in my big router table. Changing bits and adjusting height of routers in the BT3 is a lot more work. But when I did, there was no problem the way I used it.

[leehljp]

I used a router on my BT3000 about 20 years ago and had the same issue as Marc / Black Walnut. The acc table was well locked on the front and correctly in the lip on the back. I did not use a rear clamp and found that the table began to "walk" rather quickly when pressure was applied with the board against the bit. The subtle fine vibration allowed the walking when the feeding of the board into the route bit began. The front clamp was not enough to stop it. I did not have or could not find the rear clamp, so I chalked it up learning a lesson that I needed that clamp.

Although I am getting older and forgetting more, that is one issue that I remember, and if I remember correctly, that issue has been discussed here a few times over the years.