BT3100 router table upgrade: router lift, miter slot, and fence-mounted stock guides

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  • JLyon
    Established Member
    • Jun 2003
    • 138
    • Kirkland, WA, USA.

    BT3100 router table upgrade: router lift, miter slot, and fence-mounted stock guides

    I may be the last guy on the planet who is still trying to turn the BT3100 accessory table into a respectable router table. Today I think I came as close as I'm going to get. As you can see in the photo, I modified an extra BT3 fence to add T-tracks so that I could mount the JessEm stock guides, along with an simple Rockler featherboard. Of course, this solution is limited by the alignment and stability of the stock fence, which I have found to be questionable from time to time.

    Then, I added a simple deck made from two layers of baltic birch plywood, inserted a miter track, and attached it via large T-nuts to the rails. Now I have the hold-down and hold-in capabilities I wanted.

    What you can't see is that I installed the Router Technologies Router Raizer under the table, and the Extreme Extension above. . So now, I can raise and lower the router from above, and I can change bits easily with an a single allen wrench, about an inch above the table.

    Due to a lack of space for a dedicated router table in my small shop, I was determined to see if I could achieve these upgrades on the existing BT3 table top, without spending a ton of money, and without trying to build custom solutions that are above my skill level. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out and would be happy to share the process with anyone else who might be struggling to find a similar solution for their BT3.

    Jeff
  • twistsol
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 2893
    • Cottage Grove, MN, USA.
    • Ridgid R4512, 2x ShopSmith Mark V 520, 1951 Shopsmith 10ER

    #2
    Nice job. It looks to me like you've made your BT into a respectable citizen of the router table world. The router raizer is an awesome product.
    Chr's
    __________
    An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
    A moral man does it.

    Comment

    • cdjr
      Forum Newbie
      • Jun 2021
      • 6

      #3
      Very nice setup. I'm just about ready to get a router. I may be in contact with you for some assistance.

      Comment


      • JLyon
        JLyon commented
        Editing a comment
        Happy to help cdjr. First bit of advice: in any router table set up, it's the router itself that's most important. It's advisable to buy the best router you can. It can be mounted to the BT3 accessory table as is, and be usable immediately with the stock fence. The rest of these pieces in my solution are add-ons intended to improve precision, control and safety.
    • Fred Stevens`
      Handtools only
      • Jun 2021
      • 4

      #4
      Like cdjr, I'm also just starting out in router world. I'm curious about your comment that a quality router can be mounted to the BT3000 accessory table as is. The holes on the accessory table are 6 inches apart in a square pattern which doesn't seem to match any of the popular modern routers. So is the idea that this isn't a problem because these routers come with adaptor plates to fit the six inch spacing?

      Thanks,
      Fred

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20920
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #5
        Originally posted by Fred Stevens`
        Like cdjr, I'm also just starting out in router world. I'm curious about your comment that a quality router can be mounted to the BT3000 accessory table as is. The holes on the accessory table are 6 inches apart in a square pattern which doesn't seem to match any of the popular modern routers. So is the idea that this isn't a problem because these routers come with adaptor plates to fit the six inch spacing?

        Thanks,
        Fred
        most router bottoms are only 6" diameter.
        The BT3 accessory table is designed to take a metal plate with two beveled corners. The metal plate is found in the Ryobi router mounting kit 4950300. Read about it in the BT3 FAQ.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	BT3000 router mtg kit picture.JPG Views:	0 Size:	67.4 KB ID:	844569
        The router is fitted to the plate #12 in the picture, then the router plate and router is fastened to the accessory table with four screws.
        Early router mounting kits had a plate with only Ryobi router holes in it, but later versions had a more universal set of holes.for the PC690/Bosch/Dewalt routers and others.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-30-2021, 07:36 PM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • Fred Stevens`
          Handtools only
          • Jun 2021
          • 4

          #6
          Got it. Makes complete sense.
          Thanks,
          Fred

          Comment

          • leehljp
            Just me
            • Dec 2002
            • 8429
            • Tunica, MS
            • BT3000/3100

            #7
            One WARNING: The vibration from the router causes the router table to come loose from the rail at the rear and then slide. Therefore Parts 13, 14 & 4 for FIRMLY locking the rear of the table to the rear rail is a necessity!

            ON SECOND THOUGHT - I am not sure if that is the locking parts or not, But there IS a separate locking part/knob needed for use with the router table to keep it from sliding during use.
            Last edited by leehljp; 07-01-2021, 11:50 AM.
            Hank Lee

            Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

            Comment

            • LCHIEN
              Internet Fact Checker
              • Dec 2002
              • 20920
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #8
              Originally posted by leehljp
              One WARNING: The vibration from the router causes the router table to come loose from the rail at the rear and then slide. Therefore Parts 13, 14 & 4 for FIRMLY locking the rear of the table to the rear rail is a necessity!

              ON SECOND THOUGHT - I am not sure if that is the locking parts or not, But there IS a separate locking part/knob needed for use with the router table to keep it from sliding during use.
              Yes, 13, 14 and 4 are for locking the rear of the router/auxiliary table to the rear rail... and of course the front rail lock lever that is part of the Aux table should also be locked. This is primarily important when you are using the rip fence as your router fence, having the rear of the table moving around even a little will have you gouging what should be a smooth edge provided by the fence.

              Here is my experience FWIW. I have a free standing router table but at one time I did have a spare router installed in the auxilary table of my BT3 but I used it for bearing guided edge routing... Chamfer, roundover, ogee etc. It was convenient for that and did not require use of the rip fence and mounting all those parts.... When not in use I just lowered the router below the table often with the bit still in the collet. So I did not have to worry about changing my router table setup to use the saw or the saw setup to route. It was handy to just have a router mounted for edge finishing that was easily accessed, quick to set up and did not disturb either the table saw setup or the router table setup. Since the fence was not used, I did not use the rear locking mechanism... straight edges were assured by the use of the bearing.
              Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-01-2021, 12:33 PM.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment

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