Material for router table top/fences

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • cwphoto
    Forum Newbie
    • Oct 2011
    • 29

    #16
    Certainly lots of great feedback here on router table tops. I'm learning a whole heck of a lot. While online last night at Home Depot, I saw they have 1 inch thick melamine coated particle board designed for workbenches. I actually have a number of melamine boards around the shop, and went around checking various pieces with a straight edge. , All of them seem to be completely flat, which is more than I can say for the un-coated particleboard, and MDF is a joke. I hate that stuff!

    So, I picked up a small 19.5" x 48", sku # 339928, and I think it was under $15. Comes in a cardboard box, so it's well protected. Totally flat out-of-the-box. All of the edges and top and bottom were coated. So, made up some maple supports for the sides, and we'll see how this works. With a large router plate in the middle, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of room for ribs or supports. Second, how well is particleboard actually going to hold screws to keep a piece of angle iron secured?

    Tomorrow, I will rout out the section for the Incra router plate. Speaking of which, I'm thinking of offsetting it, similar to the stock location. Maybe about 9 inches from the front edge to the center. Anybody have any words of wisdom on router location? Seems like the closer it is to the center, the harder it would be on the back, and outstretched arms get fatigued pretty easily trying to keep pressure against the stock. The only plus I can see to centering the router plate is it's easier to use if you're using the table from the end or saw. Most of the time I think I'm going to keep my extension table closer to the saw blade. Seems like it would be less stressful on the rails in that location too.

    For anyone contemplating an extension table like this, the only problem I ran into was not having enough clearance between the back rail and saw for the one of the plastic knobs used to fasten the support pieces to the rails. |See photo. I just switched over to a wing nut here. Seems to work fine.

    Here's a few pictures of the project in progress, who doesn't like pictures!

    Cheers,

    Troy
    Attached Files

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 20920
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #17
      just a thought...
      Troy said that a piece of cut MDF left overnight warped. And even two layers laminated together warped.

      How were they left overnight? on top of another flat surface? or suspended by the edges or resting on top of some parallel strips allowing air to circulate underneath?

      Possibly differential moisture absorbtion may have warped the MDF, when left laying on a table top the exposed side absorbed or dried and the side against the table lost or gained less moisture.

      Would Sort of depend on the room conditions - e.g. an open shop left on a damp night or a board left in an airconditioned constant temperature and humidity environment are the two extremes.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #18
        Originally posted by cwphoto
        Tomorrow, I will rout out the section for the Incra router plate. Speaking of which, I'm thinking of offsetting it, similar to the stock location. Maybe about 9 inches from the front edge to the center. Anybody have any words of wisdom on router location? Seems like the closer it is to the center, the harder it would be on the back, and outstretched arms get fatigued pretty easily trying to keep pressure against the stock. The only plus I can see to centering the router plate is it's easier to use if you're using the table from the end or saw. Most of the time I think I'm going to keep my extension table closer to the saw blade. Seems like it would be less stressful on the rails in that location too.
        I normally work on my router table from the end, so I centered mine. I kind of like it centered in order to have more outfeed support. My knockdown outfeed table for the saw makes for plenty of infeed support for the router.

        Before I added the half rails to my 21829 I had to break down the router setup to use the saw all too often. Having the router table as far away from the saw makes things easier for me. I also like keeping the 21829 accessory table to the right of the blade. The SMT can be easily swapped out with it when required.

        There's some shots of my 21829 setup in this post: http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...92&postcount=7
        Erik

        Comment

        • cwphoto
          Forum Newbie
          • Oct 2011
          • 29

          #19
          Originally posted by pelligrini
          I normally work on my router table from the end, so I centered mine. I kind of like it centered in order to have more outfeed support. My knockdown outfeed table for the saw makes for plenty of infeed support for the router.

          Before I added the half rails to my 21829 I had to break down the router setup to use the saw all too often. Having the router table as far away from the saw makes things easier for me. I also like keeping the 21829 accessory table to the right of the blade. The SMT can be easily swapped out with it when required.

          There's some shots of my 21829 setup in this post: http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...92&postcount=7
          You mentioned you had to break down the router set up to use the saw. I assume that you are not using a removable plate? I plan on using the Incra aluminum plate, and will be removing the router when not in use to keep the weight off the table (and hopefully keep it flat).

          As to more outfeed room, I guess it's also the opposite if you're using the router from the front and the router is offset (closer) to the front. Of course it's just the opposite if using the router from the end. I also plan on using the incra positioner (25"), so that would have to be turned around to use a router on the end of the bench.

          I certainly see your point about the SMT being easier to change out, although loosening four knobs for the small extension table is fairly easy too.

          I like that design for the outfeed table. That's going to be my next project. I thought about extending a piece of aluminum off the bottom of the rear track, and using a U-shaped piece of aluminum that a piece of half-inch plywood would sit in, which in turn would support the top I don't plan on using a full with table, so my thought was this would allow the table to be slid from side to side. I typically am not cutting large sheets, but do cut longer boards frequently, so a half width table makes more sense for me. Not sure how this will work as it's just in the planning stage.

          Thanks for the great feedback!

          Troy

          Comment

          • cwphoto
            Forum Newbie
            • Oct 2011
            • 29

            #20
            Originally posted by LCHIEN
            just a thought...
            Troy said that a piece of cut MDF left overnight warped. And even two layers laminated together warped.

            How were they left overnight? on top of another flat surface? or suspended by the edges or resting on top of some parallel strips allowing air to circulate underneath?

            Possibly differential moisture absorbtion may have warped the MDF, when left laying on a table top the exposed side absorbed or dried and the side against the table lost or gained less moisture.

            Would Sort of depend on the room conditions - e.g. an open shop left on a damp night or a board left in an airconditioned constant temperature and humidity environment are the two extremes.
            I talked about this in a previous e-mail. When I laminated the MDF together, it was allowed to dry on top of a very flat surface, with 50 pounds of weight on top of it. I use drywall screws to hold the sandwich together. it was very flat the next day, but then I trimmed it to final size, that piece was left on the extension rails, and that's when it warped. It never did flatten out by the way. I think there's no question that different moisture absorption and drying is the culprit.

            In my photofinishing business, I frequently mount canvas prints to thin quarter-inch masonite panels, and the glue on the front surface will warp those things in a heartbeat. What I have learned to do is moisten the backside, and then weight the whole package down to dry. Even doing this, many times the panels will warp. Extreme dryness and woodworking don't work well together. I'm sure there are folks in similar dry climates that have issues too. I doubt this would be an issue at all during the summer.

            You should see the stack of Maple at Home Depot! OMG, finding a straight board and there is a challenge

            Cheers,

            Troy

            Comment

            • cwphoto
              Forum Newbie
              • Oct 2011
              • 29

              #21
              There's some shots of my 21829 setup in this post: http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...92&postcount=7[/QUOTE]

              That's a pretty cool setup! Tell me about the table on the SMT side, I like that!. Is that a generic workbench or what? I too was thinking about some additional support for the half extension table, and like your little outfeed table support. It makes it adjustable for different terrain pretty easily. Nice.

              Sorry to hear that the top warped. My first attempt was some Baltic Birch, and it had 1/8" bow to it before I even got it cut. Fortunately the lumberyard took it back, and at $100 for a 5 x 5, I was glad they did! I will keep an eye on this 1 inch piece of melamine. As I mentioned in a previous post, this stuff seems to be more stable than most materials, even though it is particle board. I think it's the coating that helps stabilize the moisture content.

              I do think it's a good idea to not leave your router mounted permanently there, as that weight is certainly going to contribute to or warpage.

              BTW, Have you checked out the Keen system for dust collection for the router? I have yet to install mine but looks like a good system.

              Troy

              Comment

              • pelligrini
                Veteran Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 4217
                • Fort Worth, TX
                • Craftsman 21829

                #22
                Originally posted by cwphoto
                That's a pretty cool setup! Tell me about the table on the SMT side, I like that!. Is that a generic workbench or what? I too was thinking about some additional support for the half extension table, and like your little outfeed table support. It makes it adjustable for different terrain pretty easily. Nice.
                That table is a set of BT extension rails and two Ryobi leg kits with a 3/4" MDF top mounted with the Ryobi brackets that come with the extnsion kit.
                There's a couple closer shots in this thread: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=39913
                I haven't set it up in a while. Once I built a decent bench I just didn't have room in my shop for it.

                I just took a look at the Keen system. Looks pretty cool and not expensive at all. It might be a hassle with my Jessem Lift though.
                Erik

                Comment

                • sscherin
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2003
                  • 772
                  • Kennewick, WA, USA.

                  #23
                  My first router fence.. A high tech solution including dust collection..
                  hammer tap micro adjust..
                  William's Law--
                  There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it
                  cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance.

                  Comment

                  • BobSch
                    • Aug 2004
                    • 4385
                    • Minneapolis, MN, USA.
                    • BT3100

                    #24
                    Originally posted by sscherin
                    My first router fence.. A high tech solution including dust collection..
                    hammer tap micro adjust..
                    I like it. Simple and it works. I like the idea of using the vacuum head.
                    Bob

                    Bad decisions make good stories.

                    Comment

                    • wood wrangler
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Nov 2009
                      • 18
                      • Western Chicago burbs
                      • btk3000, with the 3100 shim update

                      #25
                      Originally posted by cwphoto
                      Hi folks:

                      I also want to try to dampen vibration as much as possible. The stock aluminum table top is horrible for a router! Vibrates every part of the saw, and find I cannot even turn my router to its highest-speed due to excess vibration.
                      Troy
                      Have you tried putting a layer of rubber between the router and the mounting plate? I've read how doing that with garage door opener mounts helps keep a bedroom above it from being jarred by the vibration.

                      Comment

                      • Black wallnut
                        cycling to health
                        • Jan 2003
                        • 4715
                        • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
                        • BT3k 1999

                        #26
                        Originally posted by wood wrangler
                        Have you tried putting a layer of rubber between the router and the mounting plate? I've read how doing that with garage door opener mounts helps keep a bedroom above it from being jarred by the vibration.
                        His issue more likely was caused by not using the accessory table clamp as referenced in Lorings first post in this thread from last year.
                        Donate to my Tour de Cure


                        marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

                        Head servant of the forum

                        ©

                        Comment

                        Working...