Material for router table top/fences

[cwphoto]

Hi folks:

As part of customizing my new saw, I've been making up auxiliary fences, and also wanted to make an extension table to mount my Bosch router. I always thought of MDF as been flat, and a good stock to use for fences, but when it is extended beyond the stock aluminum fence, I'm also finding that it flexes quite easily--not a good thing.

I'm thinking of perhaps going to some Baltic Birch plywood. Any kind of hardwood has the possibility of warping, and even plywood is not always flat as I discovered.

This brings up my next question about making up an extension table, where I was going to mount my Incra router plate. I have the option of using a sheet of 3/4" Baltic Birch, or laminating a piece of 3/4" +1/2" MDF. There is nothing thicker available in MDF, not that I would want to try to pick it up anyway!

I'm just wondering if the Baltic Birch, being only 3/4" thick would be thick enough, or if that should be topped with something. I also want to try to dampen vibration as much as possible. The stock aluminum table top is horrible for a router! Vibrates every part of the saw, and find I cannot even turn my router to its highest-speed due to excess vibration. Due to space concerns, I really do want to use the saw top for the router, and think it would be nice to use the Incra positioner as the saw fence as well.

So, your feedback please.

Troy

[dbhost]

For starters, if you want to go beyond the stock rails, you might want to grab a second set of rails, and a connector kit. A leg kit and some T nuts / bolts you are good to design away...

Mine is Aracuo Ply topped with tempered hardboard. It has remained flat over the last I guess 3 years now. But if I had it to do over again, which I do, I would, and I am...

Since I have the extension rails on mine, I want to use my shop space wisely. I am currently in the design phase of a mobile cabinet / workstation. Again, I will be using ply for the top, but this time, I will not be using 2 layers thick, but only 1. I will be bracing with sides and dividers in the cabinet, so my entire assembly should keep itself square and flat.

[Cochese]

My first table surface was two 3/4" MDF with formica, and this one is two 3/4" phenolic ply. Both are acceptable.

Fence was MDF, then bought a Rockler fence on clearance.

[LCHIEN]

i just have a few comments that might help.
THe router mounting kit for the BT3's has a rear clamp which is for use with a router. It clamps the back end of the router/aux table to the rear rail which makes it much "Stiffer"

If you want absolutely flat, non-warping fences then rocker and incra and others sell 3" wide aluminum extrusions that will serve along with right angle brackets for mounting them. I personally use formica-laminated MDF {edit - its really melamine covered particle board} shelving sold at Lowes and HD for ready-made shelving; I cut them to desired width and length and don't seem to have a problem with warping. I do make right angle bases to keep them stiff with sturdy right angle braces... An "L" shape is much stiffer than just a flat board. Think angle iron vs. flat metal sheet.

For your table tops you are not limited to 3/4 MDF, you can layer them and glue or screw them together for 1.5" thick tops.

[Old Dutchman]

When making tables, I take two pieces of MDF Then I check for flatness. I mount the two pieces after gluing them together, crown pieces to the outside. I glue them solidly, (cover every inch) with glue, then caul them between My bench, and the floor joist Basement shop. The bench is very flat, so I know that it is straight. When the glue is dry, I put an edgeing of maple, or other hardwood. This is the best way, according to the experts, and I have a straight table after it's done This is the second table, and I have been very pleased!

[cwphoto]

Material for router table top

When making tables, I take two pieces of MDF Then I check for flatness. I mount the two pieces after gluing them together, crown pieces to the outside. I glue them solidly, (cover every inch) with glue, then caul them between My bench, and the floor joist Basement shop. The bench is very flat, so I know that it is straight. When the glue is dry, I put an edgeing of maple, or other hardwood. This is the best way, according to the experts, and I have a straight table after it's done This is the second table, and I have been very pleased!

Thank you for the response. Since most commercially made router tables seem to be made from particle board, I think I will go this route as well. Your procedure seems like it will take care of any inherent bow. I may just opt to screw these together with some 1" sheet rock screws, since I really don't have adequate supply of clamps. I would think if I can get some weight on the boards, and then screw them together it should be fine.

[cwphoto]

Material for router table top/fences

i just have a few comments that might help.
THe router mounting kit for the BT3's has a rear clamp which is for use with a router. It clamps the back end of the router/aux table to the rear rail which makes it much "Stiffer"

If you want absolutely flat, non-warping fences then rocker and incra and others sell 3" wide aluminum extrusions that will serve along with right angle brackets for mounting them. I personally use formica-laminated MDF shelving sold at Lowes and HD for ready-made shelving; I cut them to desired width and length and don't seem to have a problem with warping. I do make right angle bases to keep them stiff with sturdy right angle braces... An "L" shape is much stiffer than just a flat board. Think angle iron vs. flat metal sheet.

For your table tops you are not limited to 3/4 MDF, you can layer them and glue or screw them together for 1.5" thick tops.

Lots of great ideas here. I particularly liked the idea of making an L. shape. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that myself, but it should add quite a bit of rigidity to any fence. Once I actually get my router table built, I can start using my Incra positioner, and this may have a long enough fence (28") to allow me to do things like joining. For the miter fence, I was thinking about attaching a 1 inch track to the top ( aluminum), and that may stiffen it up enough too. I actually have quite a few shelves laying around here, and may rip some of those up. For the miter fence, I'm not so sure that the slick surface would be ideal. Nice for most other fences though. Again, great ideas!

[JimD]

Around here, the shelving material in the big box stores is melamine particle board. The surface is like a very thin formica. I like it for extension table tops. I add plywood stiffening ribs. Particle board is stronger and stiffer than MDF and is not prone to warping like MDF. It is also uglier, at least to me, but the melamine takes care of that. With a coat of wax, material moves over this very easily. I have a router table setup in my extension table so you could say I use melamine particle board for this too.

My primary router table has a top made from a sink cutout backed by 3/4 plywood and wrapped by maple. Sink cutouts are very high quality (dense) particle board and the top is formica. I've found them for a few dollars before in a home center but you would probably have to talk to a installation guy or something to find one - but it might be free.

I like baltic birch plywood but I don't like any plywood for something that must stay flat. It warps less than solid wood but more than MDF or particle board. I think it is easier to to deal with the tendency of MDF or particle board to sag than it is to totally avoid warping in plywood. If I used plywood, I would prefer baltic birch. Next best would be good hardwood plywood with poplar inner plys - the last oak plywood I got at HD has poplar inner plys.

Jim

[pelligrini]

I used some Phenolic coated plywood from woodcraft for my router insert. It's not exactly cheap, but I really do like it. Mine was realy flat. The coating is pretty slick and water resistant too.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003958/9104/Phenolic-Faced-Plywood-34-x-24-x-48.aspx

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003958/9185/Phenolic-Faced-Plywood-12-x-24-x-48.aspx

Mine has sagged a little bit over time supporting my router and jessem lift. I just used a single piece of the 3/4". I should have made a supporting structure underneath.

[Stytooner]

This may be an over costly solution, but 80/20 extrusion would work great for this application. Many different profiles.
I have used it often for building cnc machines. Currently building a plasma cutter using it. The Ebay store is a good source for cheaper drops, ends and seconds on this stuff.

I have been looking for some laminated phenolic to use as new throat plate material. Have not found any of that that is suitable yet. I did see the phenolic impregnated plywood from Woodcraft.


Comes in 3/4" and 1/2" thickness. Not cheap, but sure sounds durable.
I may do a test run on the 1/2" stuff for Ryobi throat plates.

This material along with the 80/20 and a good design should be the last router fence you would ever need on just about any table. Versatile and stable are key here.


Erik, right ahead of me.

[Cochese]

Lee, keep an eye out for sales from Rockler. I used this when it went on sale for $20 awhile back.

Although, with the scarcity of sales I think I'll be switching back to MDF for next time.

[Old Dutchman]

ONE thing that You can do: Check out the Restore store. They are associated with Habitat For Humanity! In My area, the amount of cut offs, are pretty high. The store is full of the particle board cabinet tops , and even more Formica. So When You are ready to cover Your table, You have a lot of options for color. Remember to Apply it to the top, and the bottom, and I don't think it will droop, or change in orientation at all. I used Good quality contact cement for the table.

[cwphoto]

update

Both MDF and particle board started out very flat. I cut a piece of particle board to rough size, and the next morning it was warped about 3/32 of an inch! So, decided to use a few pieces of MDF. I started out with an extremely flat work surface, and then used a foam roller to apply a thin coat of glue between a piece of half and three quarter, and screwed the whole assembly together. I then weighted the assembly down with a 50 pounds container. It was allowed to dry overnight.

Next morning it was completely flat. I trimmed the ends, and proceeded making my support rails for the saw to support the tabletop. Well, another 24 hours went by and believe it or not this top is warped 3/32"! Unbelievable! I really would have thought that MDF was more stable than this in such a small piece, but my straight edge doesn't lie.

I have moistened the concave side, and then put the convex side up with a little bit of weight on top of it between the rails on the saw, and hoping it might flatten out overnight. If it does you can bet I'm going to get some finish on it!

If that doesn't work, then I guess I will try some of the laminated plywood that woodcraft and Rockler sell. Really frustrating trying to get materials to lay flat and stay that way. I suspect the weight of my router is going to make the situation worse.

Admittedly, on smaller stock this is not going to be an issue, but for running a dado down the middle of a larger board, it will definitely create problems.

Troy

[Stytooner]

My BT's router table was made using some 3/4" oak plywood. Double thickness except in the center where the router plate is. The plate rests on the second layer. It has held up pretty well, but not without some measure of warp. I have sanded through parts of the veneer on the edges in an effort to keep it flat. I reseal with paste wax.
Both sheets were initially sealed with poly. This is about 6 years old now I think. Doesn't look great, but still does the job, however I don't do much on it that is that precise.

I need to make a new one for the new shop, so want something better.
I may wind up using the laminated plywood and design in some bracing underneath. I think bracing is probably key to achieve stability regardless of material choice.

I tried using MDF as a spoil board on my first cnc router. That was an effort in futility. That stuff warped, swelled and pretty much did everything you don't want a cutting surface to do. No more of that will cross the shop threshold.

[pelligrini]

Really frustrating trying to get materials to lay flat and stay that way. I suspect the weight of my router is going to make the situation worse.

The router will make it worse, especially over time. Hardwood or Baltic Birch ribs will help with stability. Metal angle stock would help too, aluminum is easier to work than steel.

I plan on incorporating 1x4 reinforcing ribs for my next router table insert. The ribs will also give me a good way to make a detachable below table enclosure for dust collection.

As Lee mentioned, bracing is the key thing for stability. Most any sheet stock is really good for dimensional uniformity in the plane of the sheet, but rather poor at not warping or bending. A little reinforcing can go a long way. I have a portable 4x5 assembly table top I set on sawhorses. The surface is just a sheet of 3/8" cheap ply (which can warp on it's own by just looking at it). The 1x4 cross bracing underneath makes it sturdy enough that I can stand on it.

Some bracing ribs underneath your glued up top should flatten it right out and keep it that way.