Having recently installed a router cabinet in my BT3000, I was interested in improving the dust collection system to include the new setup. I also wanted to catch the dust from the saw that was falling down below. I was previously connecting the 4" main DC line to BT3K DC port with 8' of 2-1/4" hose.
Some great ideas were offered in this thread http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=29525
My design criteria were as follows:
I made a belly pan, similar to the one shown by LCHIEN in the ideas thread. The port is positioned slightly differently to accommodate the hard plumbing.
The cover for the rear plenum is removable for inspection and cleaning. The plenum cover covers, but does not quite block, the saw's DC port when the blade is angled at 45 degrees. There is about about 1/2" clearance between the port and the panel.
I used off-the-shelf 4" PVC connectors and pipe, coupled with the blast gates and wye from the HF kit, to make this manifold on the back. This stuff is cheap and easy to work with. You don't have to get the angles exactly right because the fittings offer quite a bit of play. I put two or three screws in each joint once it was assembled. Note that the blast gates fit inside the pipe, but do not fit the pipe connectors. Where I wanted a blast gate right at the connector, I just made a "gasket" of 1-1/2" length of pipe. There are separate blast gates for saw and router cabinet.
The whole shebang is connected to the main line via flex hose. The flex allows the saw to be moved, as I sometimes require for wide cross-cuts or 8' rips.
The rear panel is removable. I used four thumb screws connecting to threaded sleeves embedded in the plenum. I realized at the end that I have to remove two screws at one of the PVC joints in order to remove the panel. I just may leave those screws off - it wouldn't affect performance or reliability, IMO.
Now it's on to the top side! The main DC line runs right above the router end of the table, plus I've got a 2-1/4" port on the router fence. If only there was a blade guard for the BT3K with integral DC port, toolless removal and custom colors...
JR
Some great ideas were offered in this thread http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=29525
My design criteria were as follows:
- Must offer good flow, taking up as much dust from the underside of the saw and router as possible using installed HF 2HP DC system.
- Should use rigid pipe vs flex in support goal #1.
- Should use parts from recently purchased HF DC Accessory Kit.
- Other parts must be available at hardware stores in town.
- It should make economical use of space to the rear and side of the saw.
I made a belly pan, similar to the one shown by LCHIEN in the ideas thread. The port is positioned slightly differently to accommodate the hard plumbing.
The cover for the rear plenum is removable for inspection and cleaning. The plenum cover covers, but does not quite block, the saw's DC port when the blade is angled at 45 degrees. There is about about 1/2" clearance between the port and the panel.
I used off-the-shelf 4" PVC connectors and pipe, coupled with the blast gates and wye from the HF kit, to make this manifold on the back. This stuff is cheap and easy to work with. You don't have to get the angles exactly right because the fittings offer quite a bit of play. I put two or three screws in each joint once it was assembled. Note that the blast gates fit inside the pipe, but do not fit the pipe connectors. Where I wanted a blast gate right at the connector, I just made a "gasket" of 1-1/2" length of pipe. There are separate blast gates for saw and router cabinet.
The whole shebang is connected to the main line via flex hose. The flex allows the saw to be moved, as I sometimes require for wide cross-cuts or 8' rips.
The rear panel is removable. I used four thumb screws connecting to threaded sleeves embedded in the plenum. I realized at the end that I have to remove two screws at one of the PVC joints in order to remove the panel. I just may leave those screws off - it wouldn't affect performance or reliability, IMO.
Now it's on to the top side! The main DC line runs right above the router end of the table, plus I've got a 2-1/4" port on the router fence. If only there was a blade guard for the BT3K with integral DC port, toolless removal and custom colors...
JR
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