MY BT3K DC Solution

[Garasaki]

Morning Garasaki...

"Care to elaborate on the location of the "strategically placed holes"?.. G
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Depends on the type and brand of ZCTP you are using. Different makers use different designs. Post a picture of both sides of your throat plate and I will elaborate.

If you can't get a picture, I would suggest take a close look at your plate as to thickness and where the re-inforcements are placed. Then cut something to find out where the most dust ends up on the TS surface. That should tell you where they are needed and it will probably be toward the front "if possible" as the cut is made on the down-stroke by the front teeth of the blade. In other words... observation and common sense would dictate where you put them with the plates design a definite factor in the equation.

I have a BT and a Uni-saw. They have entirely different ZCTP's and the holes are put where the designer left a spot that would not cause structual fatigue on his design. Could be small holes in the case of the BT plate I use and larger holes on the Uni-saw with a throat plate made up the road from me in Gainesville, Ga. Probably the best structually designed throat plate I've seen on the market. Positive snap-in design and easy to remove with just a thumb hole.

Regards...

Ahhh, so you made structural integratity/stiffness your greatest concern, rather then finding magical dust magnet points. That makes sense. Thanks for the response.

[steve-norrell]

Here is an example of a ZCPT that I use. I make them from the material used to make cutting boards, which, I am told, is UHMW plastic with some stiffener added to the formulation.

I believe that dust collection is slightly improved over what you would get with a ZCPT without the added hole or widened slot at the rear of the blade. However, I cannot say it is significantly improved. I do use a Shark Guard with a ShopVac as my DC.

Others have suggested drilling several holes around the front of the saw blade and that probably would increase DC somewhat. Note also that the cut for the Riving Knife DOES NOT go all the way to the back of TP; this does offer some increased rigidity.

I have found that this design, when used with a Shark Guard, works for me and provides somewhat better DC while also providing good tear out protection.

Good luck, Steve.

[Skeezix]

It may be that the rear port should be located at the bottom of the plenum. I don't see any problem with continuing with this configuration as is, though.

JR

How about sealing of the area beneath the factory exhaust cutout? That would prevent heavier sawdust from dropping out of the flow path. Maybe some thick taped-back weatherstripping would work temporarily to see what the effect would be...

And for that matter, why is the plenum so large? Isn't all you're trying to do is capture the dust from the factory port and the slot in which it moves? If so, you could raise the bottom of your plenum frame up. Maybe relocating your port closer to the bottom would also help. Dunno, just sorta thinking outloud here.

[JR]

How about sealing of the area beneath the factory exhaust cutout?

I think that's what Stytooner was suggesting.

... Maybe some thick taped-back weatherstripping would work temporarily to see what the effect would be

Hmm, that might just work! I'll give it try.

...And for that matter, why is the plenum so large?

No good reason. It does have to be the size of the DC port, but doesn't have to be as big as I made it.

JR

[sscherin]

Well I have a simple setup..

Just a 1/2" plywood bottom plate with a 4" hole where the DC hose goes..
it just slides into the bottom of the case.
It's placed so the motor drops into the hole when it's at 45 deg
2.5" hose to the dust port..

I get a tiny bit of dust out the blade guard and that is it.





I almost forgot about my dirt cheep router fence with dust collection
The 4" hose is shoved up between the router and the saw case to puck up on the bottom side.