MY BT3K DC Solution

[JR]

Having recently installed a router cabinet in my BT3000, I was interested in improving the dust collection system to include the new setup. I also wanted to catch the dust from the saw that was falling down below. I was previously connecting the 4" main DC line to BT3K DC port with 8' of 2-1/4" hose.

Some great ideas were offered in this thread http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=29525

My design criteria were as follows:

1. Must offer good flow, taking up as much dust from the underside of the saw and router as possible using installed HF 2HP DC system.
2. Should use rigid pipe vs flex in support goal #1.
3. Should use parts from recently purchased HF DC Accessory Kit.
4. Other parts must be available at hardware stores in town.
5. It should make economical use of space to the rear and side of the saw.

I elected to implent a shroud with 4" DC port plus underbelly pan with 4" DC port. Here is the "shroud", simply a frame made of 3/4" plywood. This is the perfect standoff measurement - any less blocks the BT3K DC port, an more interferes with the rear rail adjustment levers.


I made a belly pan, similar to the one shown by LCHIEN in the ideas thread. The port is positioned slightly differently to accommodate the hard plumbing.


The cover for the rear plenum is removable for inspection and cleaning. The plenum cover covers, but does not quite block, the saw's DC port when the blade is angled at 45 degrees. There is about about 1/2" clearance between the port and the panel.


I used off-the-shelf 4" PVC connectors and pipe, coupled with the blast gates and wye from the HF kit, to make this manifold on the back. This stuff is cheap and easy to work with. You don't have to get the angles exactly right because the fittings offer quite a bit of play. I put two or three screws in each joint once it was assembled. Note that the blast gates fit inside the pipe, but do not fit the pipe connectors. Where I wanted a blast gate right at the connector, I just made a "gasket" of 1-1/2" length of pipe. There are separate blast gates for saw and router cabinet.


The whole shebang is connected to the main line via flex hose. The flex allows the saw to be moved, as I sometimes require for wide cross-cuts or 8' rips.


The rear panel is removable. I used four thumb screws connecting to threaded sleeves embedded in the plenum. I realized at the end that I have to remove two screws at one of the PVC joints in order to remove the panel. I just may leave those screws off - it wouldn't affect performance or reliability, IMO.


Now it's on to the top side! The main DC line runs right above the router end of the table, plus I've got a 2-1/4" port on the router fence. If only there was a blade guard for the BT3K with integral DC port, toolless removal and custom colors...

JR

[RodKirby]

Nice job! I bet that took care of a couple of days.

[gad5264]

Very nice job, I bet that one will get pilfered real quickly.

[final_t]

Totally frick'n AWESUME. I never thought of shrouding the back end like that - brilliant!
And yea, you betcha that's gonna get pilfered quicklike!

[eezlock]

BT3 Dc solution

All your set up looks good from what I can see...but am wondering about one thing....how good does the saw collection port work if you tilt the saw to say 45 deg. angle....it sort of looks as if it would come loose and the hose would not pick up the saw dust, have you tried that yet? Lee (Skytooner) has a Sharkguard for the BT3 saw that has a dust port on it that you
could hook up to the dust collector as well. eezlock

[JR]

how good does the saw collection port work if you tilt the saw to say 45 deg. angle....

I haven't tried it yet. I'm optimistic.

The plenum should pick up most of the offered dust. If there's any overflow it will go through the kidney-shaped cutout in the back, to be collected by the belly pan. Same thing if it backs up into and over the blade shroud.

Once I get overhead dust collection it should be pulling from all angles.

JR

[JR]

Nice job! I bet that took care of a couple of days.

It did take a couple of days, but only because I stared at the problem for so long. An average woodworker, using these pics, should easily do the whole thing in a day, including the trip to the hardware store.

JR

[JR]

I sacrificed a 2x4 to test the effectiveness of the setup. The blade was set at 45 degrees, using a ZCTP. As you can see the top side needs some improvement regarding DC.


The belly pan was not pristine, but I saw no signs of any problem.


The rear plenum had an interesting result.


It may be that the rear port should be located at the bottom of the plenum. I don't see any problem with continuing with this configuration as is, though.

JR

[LarryG]

I sacrificed a 2x4 to test the effectiveness of the setup. The blade was set at 45 degrees, using a ZCTP. As you can see the top side needs some improvement regarding DC.

JR, you might consider using the standard throat plate except for when you really need a ZCTP, i.e., when cutting veneered plywood, ripping very thin strips, etc. After way too many months of using a ZCTP for everything, I finally figured out that switching back to the standard TP for most cuts really helps the top-side dust collection.

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning JR..

"JR, you might consider using the standard throat plate except for when you really need a ZCTP, i.e., when cutting veneered plywood, ripping very thin strips, etc. After way too many months of using a ZCTP for everything, I finally figured out that switching back to the standard TP for most cuts really helps the top-side dust collection"... Larry G
*****

Larry has given you an excellent idea, even though you might try driling some holes in key places in the zero clearance as I did. The extra holes actually help with a standard 90 degree also. I also do not just run the blade up to cut the zero clearance. I trim out about 1/32 on each side of zero as I find blades will deflect in very hard stock on occsasion. If you hear a scraping sound coming from a ZC caused by blade scraping plate, IMO this is not an ideal situation. Tooth wear.. blade plate wear causing friction other than normal friction of stock-blade building up extra heat in blade.

Just my personal view of zero clearance plates. I got enough zero's in school to cause me to re-think zero's latter in life. ha.. ha...

Regards...

[Garasaki]

Care to elaborate on the location of the "strategically placed holes"?

[JR]

I finally figured out that switching back to the standard TP for most cuts really helps the top-side dust collection.

Good point, Larry. There is no doubt that using a ZCTP causes there to be more above-table dust.

I've really just become accustomed to using the ZCTP over the last year or so. It provides the benefits you describe, plus it really helps line up cuts when using the SMT.

I'm still looking for that tool-less, custom colored blade guard with fancy graphics.

JR

[LCHIEN]

...I'm still looking for that tool-less, custom colored blade guard with fancy graphics.

JR

Sounds vaguely fishy to me. http://www.leestyron.com/sharkryobi.php

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning Garasaki...

"Care to elaborate on the location of the "strategically placed holes"?.. G
************************************************** ****

Depends on the type and brand of ZCTP you are using. Different makers use different designs. Post a picture of both sides of your throat plate and I will elaborate.

If you can't get a picture, I would suggest take a close look at your plate as to thickness and where the re-inforcements are placed. Then cut something to find out where the most dust ends up on the TS surface. That should tell you where they are needed and it will probably be toward the front "if possible" as the cut is made on the down-stroke by the front teeth of the blade. In other words... observation and common sense would dictate where you put them with the plates design a definite factor in the equation.

I have a BT and a Uni-saw. They have entirely different ZCTP's and the holes are put where the designer left a spot that would not cause structual fatigue on his design. Could be small holes in the case of the BT plate I use and larger holes on the Uni-saw with a throat plate made up the road from me in Gainesville, Ga. Probably the best structually designed throat plate I've seen on the market. Positive snap-in design and easy to remove with just a thumb hole.

Regards...

[Stytooner]

Pretty subtle hints, Guys. Thats a cool looking logo too. JR, I think something like that might top off your DC pretty well.

I think you can modify the rear plenum to make the low point of the plenum at the bottom of the port. Two more pieces of 3/4" stuff would do it. Then you wouldn't have the bottom filling up like that. Everything looks great though. Very well thought out.