FYI - lubricant

[pelligrini]

b. I have an old can of Minwax polishing wax - is the stuff similar to Johnson paste wax ? Also, does this thing expire meaning the old can I have might be useless ?

I use Minwax Paste finishing wax, for all practical purposes it's the same as Johnson's. I don't know if your polishing wax is, but if it's in a wide mouth can, it probably is. I'm using the Minwax product because Home Depot keeps the Johnson's with their cleaning stuff, and I didn't think to look there. It doesn't expire that I know of. I don't keep my can in the shop anymore as it gets pretty hot in the summer and my can will melt some.

The motor doesn't need lubrication. I will also wax the slide contact area on my SMT, that sure does make it easy to move.

[LCHIEN]

i can hardly think that the wax expires. My can of JPW is probably about 10 years old now ( I got my BT3 saw in 2000) and its still fine. I keep it inside the house not in the shop so the temperature is controlled - no extremes.

[JR]

My wife usually has a bag of those little votive candles. I grab one or two of those and rip off the metal foil on the bottom. I just smear the wax all over the area in question and maybe rub it a bit to make a nice surface.

I'd bet you could find a block of parafin at the supermarket or a hobby store and use to the same effect.

JR

[cwsmith]

As I mentioned in my earler post (page 3 of this thread), I started using Liquid Wrench "Dry Lubricant with Cerflon" (product code L512) this past year and it seems to work quite well. At just $5 for the spray can (Walmart), it goes on and dries to a white dry coating and doesn't attract dust. I also use it on my vise screw which certainly made it turn a lot smoother.

In the past, I've used candle wax, but that the before-mentioned product is a lot easier to apply.

CWS

[LCHIEN]

As I mentioned in my earler post (page 3 of this thread), I started using Liquid Wrench "Dry Lubricant with Cerflon" (product code L512) this past year and it seems to work quite well. At just $5 for the spray can (Walmart), it goes on and dries to a white dry coating and doesn't attract dust. I also use it on my vise screw which certainly made it turn a lot smoother.

In the past, I've used candle wax, but that the before-mentioned product is a lot easier to apply.

CWS

Just out of curiosity on what Cerflon is, I looked it up on the web. According to Gunk/Liquid Wrench's MSDS safety sheet the stuff is approx 20% heptane, 50% isopropanol (alcohol), 30% LPG, and .1 to 1% Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, or in other words, teflon). Mostly highly volatile components with very little teflon, the white stuff that gets left behind. Probably the can is quite explosive.

I would imagine that it works OK for the BT3 shims and threaded items (elevation rod, vise screws); I've not tried anything but the wax.

[cork58]

Untill a local supplier started carrying Bostik I used graphite. Now the only thing I use is TopCote. Both the surface spray and the cutting spray. I cannot say enought good about those products. Glad to finally have a source for it in Alaska.

[cabinetman]

Top Cote works best for me on machinery especially if any finishing is performed in the area. It contains no wax, silicone, or petroleum components. Waxes and products with silicone can cause contamination.

.

[LCHIEN]

Two quick votes for Topcote, then.
So is Topcote wonderful stuff or what is it?
So what is the lubricant in Topcote if its not wax, graphite, silicone or petroleum product? Seems like a big secret - they tell you what it is not.

Topcote's MSDS sheet says that it has large fraction amounts of
isooctane
isobutane
acetone (30-60% by weight)
Propane

No lubricating components listed but CM's link says it has "fluoropolymer technology" of which teflon is the most widely known of these. So the teflon content, like the Cerflon mentioned, is probably very low around .1%, too, to be not mentioned in the MSDS.

So Topcote is really propellent gasses (isobutane and isooctanes and propane) plus a volatile solvent carrier (acetone) to deposit a very thin layer of teflon-like substance. Nothing seemingly revolutionary. A lot more expensive than the other PTFE sprays. Not sure if the particular solvents make it any better. If nothing else be careful what plastics you spray it on, Acetone may dissolve them. Whereas the other stuff only had alcohol solvent.

[cabinetman]

If nothing else be careful what plastics you spray it on, Acetone may dissolve them.

Never had a problem with whatever plastics came in contact. I'll check that out though and spray several plastic items directly to see if there is a reaction. The product's intended use isn't for plastics, but there is no warning concerning plastics. The only complaints I've heard are about the cost, but no complaints from those that use it, which are professional shops that are active on a daily basis.

.

[nicer20]

Thank you all so much for detailed and timely support.

Also it looks like there is no need to lube the motor at all.

Hope to build some good craft out of my new(used) BT3.1K

This group rocks !!!

NG

[Dal300]

I vote for the graphite, although I applied it a bit differently.

I got an old French's mustard bottle and mixed about a teaspoon of graphite with about an ounce of isopropyl alcohol, shake well and apply as needed. The left over get's put in the storage cabinet.

Once the alcohol dries, nothing is left but a nice coat of graphite.

[Black wallnut]

Hi All,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but its the most appropriate.

I bought my saw used sometime ago and have sparingly used it. But now I am getting serious about the woodworking and the first thing on my list is to overhaul and lubricate the saw.

So some Questions are in order -

a. when some recommend Candle Wax is it as simple as taking some candles and rubbing them on the parts or is it some stuff available in stores for making candles ?
A: yes it is that simple

b. I have an old can of Minwax polishing wax - is the stuff similar to Johnson paste wax ? Also, does this thing expire meaning the old can I have might be useless ?
A: Yes, see Loring's answer

c. other than the blade raising & tilting mechanism are there other parts I should be lubricating ? What about the motor itself - does that need lubrication ?
A: Yes, as already answered. There are specific places that need lube and some that specifically do not. Please PM LChien for his FAQ on the saw that details much of what has been learned about this saw system. As important as what to use and where to apply it is what not to use and where to not lube. Do not lube the SMT Fence or the rails!

Thanks for your patience for such newbie questions.

NG

BTW welcome to BT3Central!

[LCHIEN]

I vote for the graphite, although I applied it a bit differently.

I got an old French's mustard bottle and mixed about a teaspoon of graphite with about an ounce of isopropyl alcohol, shake well and apply as needed. The left over get's put in the storage cabinet.

Once the alcohol dries, nothing is left but a nice coat of graphite.

That's a good idea. Getting powdered graphite into the right areas has always been hard. This will do the trick.

[cwsmith]

Loring,

Good points on the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube product. I only use it on the BT3100 screw and my vise screw. On the can label, it's basically billed as a low odor, dry lubricant that won't attract dust. For the BT3 lift screw application it seems to work well and I've not had any regrets.

It does have warnings against using in a non-ventilated areas, or near ignition sources.

CWS

[pelligrini]

I've used a couple spray graphite products and the same Liquid Wrench product. I think I get better longer lasting results with just paste wax. It might be in the application. I didn't bother rubbing in the sprays. I'll still use the Liquid Wrench Dry lube on the lift assembly where the lift handle comes into the case and a couple other spots where I can't apply the wax.

The one thing I don't like about the LW Dry spray is the white film. It's mainly just appearances, but it just looks strange to me. I used it on my Jessem router lift once. Everything moved better, but it really made the nice red anodized metal look bad. I like my tools to look pretty too.

I've been wanting to try out my T-9 Bosheild on my saw, but I have been reluctant to give it a whirl. It gets a little gummy when put on my cast iron surfaces and leave it thick and don't wipe it. I wouldn't want to have to clean it off the saw if it didn't work.

I haven't tried Top-coat yet. I still have a couple cans of T-9.