FYI - lubricant

[ElRay]

I'll add another item from the Cycling world: White Lightening. It's a liquefied wax, well actually it's a solid wax that's dissolved in something that evaporates quickly. It's targeted for bike chains, but the guts in a BT3x00 that you'd need to lube aren't that different, plus they're just as gritty (wood dust vs. dirt dust) so the fact that's self cleaning is a huge plus. I've also started using it indoors, on all my door hinges, because it keeps them quiet, it's not greasy and it doesn't stain like the typical graphite lube.

Ray

[newcal]

Lubricant

I had a stuck mechanism for raising/lowering the blade, read all the posts and purchased a can of Lock-Ease at the local ACE.....after cleaning the post and the wheels, Sprayed the Lock-ease there and also where the shims are apparent....Worked like a breeze!
Thanks everyone!

[Black wallnut]

This thread is six years old! That almost is a record.

[cwsmith]

It may well be six years old, but I just about ready to post the "dry-lube" question myself.... so this was very timely.

Thanks to everyone who made these posts back in 2004 and thanks for bringing it to the forefront, it's very much appreciated.

Merry Christmas to everyone!

CWS

[BobSch]

Maybe a link to this thread should be in the FAQ.

Loring?

[LCHIEN]

Maybe a link to this thread should be in the FAQ.

Loring?

I never link to Threads in the FAQ.
They tend to disappear. Or they can grow and change direction over time. They're dynamic and can get too long and even change direction. There tend to be a lot of misdirection and can have flat wrong information within them. I paraphrase or quote key elements of good posts or where several posts tend to be in agreement.

The FaQ already states to use a good dry lube or specifically Johnson's paste wax.
I'll think about adding TFE-based lubes which are a form of dry lube although someone (in this thread) stated they had a problem with it. Maybe graphite. But I think wax works the best.

[cwsmith]

Loring,

I think in an earlier post someone mentioned using "candle wax" and here you mention "Johnson's Paste Wax".... does it make a difference?

Certainly a woodworking paste wax seems like it would be easier to apply, IMO.

Just wondering, thanks and a Merry Christmas to everyone,

CWS

[JR]

I have just come from the shop, installing a new belt (). While I was in there I used candle wax, which is much more substantial than paste wax. One of those little votive candles is very easy to use and seems to last quite a while.

FWIW I did have to use a spray lubricant on a couple of spots where the lift mechanism goes through the sheet metal. There was an annoying little squeek that I couldn't get at any other way.

JR

[LCHIEN]

i think any paraffin based wax will work - I've heard of a candle rubbed on it, wiping wax paper on it, and I use paste wax from a can. I think the paste wax is easy to apply and useful for other things around the shop including work table (Including the saw table) surfaces and finishing furniture.

[cwsmith]

Thanks,

I've been using candle-wax, but of course there's a couple places on the elevation handle shaft that you simple can't rub even a small piece of candle on, without complete disassembly.

I do use Buther's Paste Wax on the top and have a couple of cans (amber and clear) that I use projects.

After seeing this thread a couple of days ago, I did a "Google" for "dry lubrication" and I found a product from Liquid Wrench called "Dry Lubricant with Cerflon" (product code L512). Not sure how adequate that would be, but today I was in the local Walmart and spotted it on the shelf. An 11 oz spray can was only $5. (It comes with a small spray tube, like WD40.) The product contains TFE, which I would think would be okay. Here's a link to the product information PDF: http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/L512.PDF

I haven't tried this yet, but will probably do so some time next week after the family's Christmas. Any opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks and Merry Christmas,

CWS

[RodKirby]

Inox

This warrants a repost.

Spray it "anywhere" - lasts "forever" non-sticky. Perfect for all our WW gear. No I'm not on commission I also use LANOX

(Google "INOX")

[Rand]

For what it's worth I used WD-40 on my saw once about 4 years ago. The blade was hard to raise and lower so I sprayed some on the shims. It's worked fine ever since.

[JoeyGee]

This thread is six years old! That almost is a record.

I almost had a heart attack when I saw some of the names in this thread before I saw the dates.

[cabinetman]

I use Top Cote. It has no wax, silicone or petroleum...works good.

.

[nicer20]

Hi All,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but its the most appropriate.

I bought my saw used sometime ago and have sparingly used it. But now I am getting serious about the woodworking and the first thing on my list is to overhaul and lubricate the saw.

So some Questions are in order -

a. when some recommend Candle Wax is it as simple as taking some candles and rubbing them on the parts or is it some stuff available in stores for making candles ?

b. I have an old can of Minwax polishing wax - is the stuff similar to Johnson paste wax ? Also, does this thing expire meaning the old can I have might be useless ?

c. other than the blade raising & tilting mechanism are there other parts I should be lubricating ? What about the motor itself - does that need lubrication ?

Thanks for your patience for such newbie questions.

NG