Circular saw recommendations?

[Bill in Buena Park]

Hank,
Just looking around, saw this Skil Magnesium CS, runs just over $90, seems to have a decent cut depth, fairly light, has your electronic brake: HD5687M-01. Believe BORG and Lowes sells, also on Amazon for roughly same price.

[leehljp]

I will be in the South Memphis area Lowes & HD on Thursday and will get one. I will check out the ones you fellows have mentioned that the stores have.

Thanks!

[LinuxRandal]

Hank,
Just looking around, saw this Skil Magnesium CS, runs just over $90, seems to have a decent cut depth, fairly light, has your electronic brake: HD5687M-01. Believe BORG and Lowes sells, also on Amazon for roughly same price.

I am a bit leery about if it actually has a blade brake. No where else do I see that mentioned, and I see it asked, not answered on Skil's site. I also couldn't find info on that in the downloadable manual (via Skils site).


Pretty sure that is a screw up on HD website. Sent them a question and message about that

[frumper64]

I'd vote for the Milwaukee at around $100. I've got one and really like it. It is the only CS I have ever used that allows me to actually see the blade and the cut even though the blade is on the right side and I am right handed. Sort of hard to explain, but the way the frame is made, you still get good visibility. It also has the adjustable handle, but I rarely use that. Doesn't have a blade brake though, but I wish it did.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I am a bit leery about if it actually has a blade brake. No where else do I see that mentioned, and I see it asked, not answered on Skil's site. I also couldn't find info on that in the downloadable manual (via Skils site).


Pretty sure that is a screw up on HD website. Sent them a question and message about that

Good catch - here's what Grainger lists on their website for this model:
Circular Saw, Blade Dia. 7-1/4 In., Blade Side Left, No Load RPM 5300, Arbor Size 5/8 In., Depth of Cut @ 90 Deg. 2-7/16 In., Depth of Cut @ 45 Deg. 1-15/16 In., 15 Amps @ 120V, Tool Length 12 In., Tool Weight 16.5 lb., Bevel Capacity 51 Degrees Shoe Material Steel, Cord Length 8 ft.Brake Type None, Handle Type Worm Drive Style, Voltage 120, Features Rear View Depth Adjustment, Anti Snag Lower GuardIncludes Mfr. No. HD5687M-01 7-1/4 In. Skilsaw, (24) Tooth Carbide Blade, Blade Wrench

Of course - HD and Lowes show weight around 11 pounds, and Grainger says 16.5... Skil site doesnt list weight. Hard to tell who has the correct info.

[gsmittle]

If i was buying (and i'm not yet) and money was not an object (always will be)--the Bosch with the direct connect (no on-board cord, plugs straight to an extension cord) would get a hard look from me. At $90 to $100, i'd take a hard look. (edit--just reread some of the reviews on CPO site, kind of remember why i didn't buy one when i had some spare money. Reviews are far too spotty--hard to get a feel)

Don't know about anyone else, but I've owned the Bosch direct connect for six or seven years now, and it's been rock-solid. It was dead-on 90° and 45° right out of the box. I'm a lefty and the blade is on the right side, which I like. You can get an accessory dust chute if you want (eventually I will, as the thing spews sawdust everywhere.)

The only thing I've done to it is swap the factory blade for a Diablo. So, I guess this is a positive review.

g.

[greenacres2]

Don't know about anyone else, but I've owned the Bosch direct connect for six or seven years now, and it's been rock-solid. It was dead-on 90° and 45° right out of the box. I'm a lefty and the blade is on the right side, which I like. You can get an accessory dust chute if you want (eventually I will, as the thing spews sawdust everywhere.)

The only thing I've done to it is swap the factory blade for a Diablo. So, I guess this is a positive review.

g.

And i'd trust your judgment better than a blind reviewer. The concern i'd have would have been on the number of reviews that mentioned warped bases after sitting for an extended period of time--but that could easily be what was buried on top of them.

I'll confess that I don't use a CS a lot, but I didn't use my old Skil jig saw either. Worked hard to avoid the jig saw, but once I bought the Bosch...so much smoother (that Skil could loosen a good filling just plugging it in!!) I now use that on a regular basis.

There's something about a tool that just doesn't work well that really makes me want to avoid it.

earl

[leehljp]

. . .
I'll confess that I don't use a CS a lot, but I didn't use my old Skil jig saw either. Worked hard to avoid the jig saw, but once I bought the Bosch...so much smoother (that Skil could loosen a good filling just plugging it in!!) I now use that on a regular basis.

There's something about a tool that just doesn't work well that really makes me want to avoid it.

earl

Going OT to the original post: While I don't mind buying some HF tools and I often recommend a few, - overall, I am skeptical of recommending just anything. A "hard to use" tool often keeps people from using them and even other brand tools of the same type. I had a similar experience with a Sears and later a Porter Cable jig saw. The PC was very tough but would shake my eye teeth. Got a Bosch. Similarly, I had Circular Saws back in the 70's and until I got the Makita, I would only use a CS when I absolutely had to. That is why I like reading recommendations such as - "What is it like to cut and rip?" "How does it feel when sawing?" "How sturdy is the plate?" Just because it has a thick cast plate doesn't make it a good saw either.
. . . then there are the features. I like the idea of the Bosch "no chord direct connect".

I would love to get the Makita but $175 is a little out of my price range for now.

[LinuxRandal]

Good catch - here's what Grainger lists on their website for this model:
Circular Saw, Blade Dia. 7-1/4 In., Blade Side Left, No Load RPM 5300, Arbor Size 5/8 In., Depth of Cut @ 90 Deg. 2-7/16 In., Depth of Cut @ 45 Deg. 1-15/16 In., 15 Amps @ 120V, Tool Length 12 In., Tool Weight 16.5 lb., Bevel Capacity 51 Degrees Shoe Material Steel, Cord Length 8 ft.Brake Type None, Handle Type Worm Drive Style, Voltage 120, Features Rear View Depth Adjustment, Anti Snag Lower GuardIncludes Mfr. No. HD5687M-01 7-1/4 In. Skilsaw, (24) Tooth Carbide Blade, Blade Wrench

Of course - HD and Lowes show weight around 11 pounds, and Grainger says 16.5... Skil site doesnt list weight. Hard to tell who has the correct info.

Read exactly what you posted above, and you will realize that Grainger site isn't correct either. (this isn't a left blade saw, sounds worm drive specs to me).
Home Depot responded to my inquiry with an apology that indeed their website is incorrect.

Don't know about anyone else, but I've owned the Bosch direct connect for six or seven years now, and it's been rock-solid. It was dead-on 90° and 45° right out of the box. I'm a lefty and the blade is on the right side, which I like. You can get an accessory dust chute if you want (eventually I will, as the thing spews sawdust everywhere.)

The only thing I've done to it is swap the factory blade for a Diablo. So, I guess this is a positive review.

g.

I had the Bosch CS20 with the Dust collection attachment (Bosch, Makita, Ryobi all sell them and there are some after market ones as well). It was decent, but the brake made a HUGE difference to me.

Going OT to the original post: While I don't mind buying some HF tools and I often recommend a few, - overall, I am skeptical of recommending just anything. A "hard to use" tool often keeps people from using them and even other brand tools of the same type. I had a similar experience with a Sears and later a Porter Cable jig saw. The PC was very tough but would shake my eye teeth. Got a Bosch. Similarly, I had Circular Saws back in the 70's and until I got the Makita, I would only use a CS when I absolutely had to. That is why I like reading recommendations such as - "What is it like to cut and rip?" "How does it feel when sawing?" "How sturdy is the plate?" Just because it has a thick cast plate doesn't make it a good saw either.
. . . then there are the features. I like the idea of the Bosch "no chord direct connect".

I would love to get the Makita but $175 is a little out of my price range for now.

Which is why I gave the specific Hitachi model. You have had good experiences with them, and if it wasn't mainly for the depth of cut, the reviews I have heard (Eurekazone users), would give the Hitachi a slight cost benefit win. Depth of cut (on the track) is the only reason the Makita tends to win.

[dbhost]

Going OT to the original post: While I don't mind buying some HF tools and I often recommend a few, - overall, I am skeptical of recommending just anything. A "hard to use" tool often keeps people from using them and even other brand tools of the same type. I had a similar experience with a Sears and later a Porter Cable jig saw. The PC was very tough but would shake my eye teeth. Got a Bosch. Similarly, I had Circular Saws back in the 70's and until I got the Makita, I would only use a CS when I absolutely had to. That is why I like reading recommendations such as - "What is it like to cut and rip?" "How does it feel when sawing?" "How sturdy is the plate?" Just because it has a thick cast plate doesn't make it a good saw either.
. . . then there are the features. I like the idea of the Bosch "no chord direct connect".

I would love to get the Makita but $175 is a little out of my price range for now.

Lee,

You make an excellent point! However something I hate to bring up that I haven't seen mentioned much here, or pretty much anywhere else for that matter, is the fact that sometimes manufacturers make major changes to an item, mid run, while keeping the same identifiers (Model name, number etc...) A VERY pointed example is the 2004 Ford F150 pickup truck. Some of them were the "Old body style" that was introduced as the 1997 model, some were the "new body style" that was discontinued in 2009... They are radically different, but they are named the same. As the owner of one of these it makes buying service parts for it rather interesting...

Tools do that as well, sometimes a switch is changed, or moved, sometimes locks, spindles etc... are changed.

Sometimes what the buyer can see isn't any different, but it is the quality underneath that changes.

For example, the Skil circular saw that I own, although current models are different, they were producing a version of my saw as recently as 2011 that was in every way, shape, and form the same as mine, except that mine was manufactured in the USA, and the newer models were made in Taiwan. One of my best friends from college has a newer version of my saw (he got his in 2009), and while neither cut smooth as butter, and both are fitted with the same Diablo blades, his just has a "feel" to it that just doesn't quite feel as solid. Both are dead simple to operate, 90 degree and 45 degree stops are smack on accurate, and both have put up with considerable operator abuse.

This same friend is the one that convinced me that HF circ saws aren't worth trying. He had one before getting the Skil... It was a shaky, hard to operate experience, not worth duplicating...

I think if I had to replace mine, based on the units I have had my hands on, I would have to go with...

#1. Hitachi C7SB2, smooth operation all the way around.
#2. Porter-Cable PC15TCS. Only slightly rougher operation than the Hitachi. Still pretty smooth, and plenty accurate.

I would also check out what current models Skil has to offer, as well as Ridgid...

[downtheroad]

I have a real fine sweet cutting Japanese model Hitachi, but I don't and won't use that for rough cutting jobs, especially ones with the potential of hitting a nail. I have 5 blades with metric sized arbors for the saw. Don't want to waste them.

With all the plunge cut track saws now in use in the U.S., many blade manufacturers are selling blades to fit these metric standards (160mm dia. by 20mm arbor, 210mm dia. by 30mm arbor). Some of these manufacturers are Tenryu, Freud, and Oshlun.

[cwsmith]

I realize I'm very late into this discussion, so my apologies if I step on something already said or passed over.

But, I think you asked for a general-use, circular saw for rougher construction purposes (taking out that existing floor and the probabilities of hitting the occasional nail, etc.

So, even though you have a budget of $80 to $100, I'm not sure if I would spend that kind of money to get a "better" class of saw. Also, I don't think I would pick any circular saw that has the blade on the left... IF you are right handed and possibly use the saw as I do.

Let me explain by example: I have a Ridgid 18-V with the blade on the left and I've found it to be a 'go-to' saw for it's portability. But when I'm cutting almost anything, especially into an old floor, that finds me on my knees and using the saw in my right hand, just ahead and to the right of my right knee... and with the blade on the left, when you hit a nail that darn thing is going to kick... and that is all too close to your leg. (In my case, I didn't get hurt... but it scared me when it happened.) From that experience, I would definitely use a saw with the blade on the right and them motor between you and the blade!

Okay, now I've looked at several saws over recent years and think that the $45-and up saws are pretty good, with most brands. I'm partial to Ryobi and Ridgid, probably because my very first circular saws were Craftsman and made by those two companies. (my 7" circular being Ryobip-made and my RAS being Emerson Electric).

What I recommend is a saw that is light enough not wear out your arm with an hours use and one with a forward handle for extra guidance and control. Also one with an easy operating trigger. Good horsepower is essential but for tearing out an old floor, you don't need someting really big. You might even find a smaller blade to be better for this task.

Ridgid of course would be more expensive, but the Ryobi brand offers a nice choice I think. It also offers a good warranty, and a very nice "Satisfaction guarantee" of 30-days... should you really not like it.

That would be my advisement and I hope it is helpful,

CWS

[capncarl]

Time for my 2 cents worth. I've got several good brand CS's which I don't have much of an opinion of, mainly because of the poor design on the blade guard or that dang 4 finger required safety switch on the handle. Oddly enough my favorite CS is a Black & Decker that came free with a set of metal cutting blades I bought. The thought was to use it as a sacrifical saw with the metal blades but it was so user friendly and the lazer was spot on, so I put the metal blades on the $100 Skil with the crappy switches. Serves it right. I would definately buy another B&D like it.
capncarl

[leehljp]

With all the plunge cut track saws now in use in the U.S., many blade manufacturers are selling blades to fit these metric standards (160mm dia. by 20mm arbor, 210mm dia. by 30mm arbor). Some of these manufacturers are Tenryu, Freud, and Oshlun.

I will check those blades out. Thanks for this information. I will look or search for some of those blades.

Still, my Japanese version of the Hitachi is too fine for me to use on rough cutting such as cutting out a floor. That model cost the equivalent of $300.00 over there, and cuts like cutting butter. This is the kind of saw that I use for cutting down furniture grade ply or even making joint smooth cuts.

[leehljp]

I went to Lowes and HD. I bought the Dewalt 575SB (with brake). I figure I picked up well over a dozen saws, held them, gripped them, held them down by my side to feel the dead weight, held them in a position like I was about to cross cut a board, gripped and released, gripped and released, really trying to get the feel of the saw. In the end I liked the feel of the Dewalt. It was a tad lighter than most (weighs in at 8.8 pounds) and that was noticeable.

Of course I did not get to feel how it cut at the store. When I got home, I plugged it up and it is much quieter compared to most CS's that I have owned or used. I like that. The brake works well. The motor fan blower exhausts the air towards the front of the blade. I had read about that but in action it really blows out a fairly strong stream of air. Should keep the cutting line clear. The depth of cut is about 1/2 inch more than the Hitachi model and that was a factor in me choosing the Dewalt, but not the main reason. I would have liked a laser light to follow. The laser is not necessary but CS lasers cast a line out several inches which helps when freehanding cuts on pencil lines. Maybe I will add one if possible.

The Dewalt seems a tad more compact and I guess that is why it is lighter for a 7 1/4, but at the same time it seems solid.

Lastly, I priced several models with Lowes and HD online and compared the prices to Amazon. I took Amazon prices for the C7 Hitachi, the Dewalt, Bosch CS5 and CS10. At the stores, I picked up the Skil, 2 or 3 models, and even a B&D. I gave each a good looking at, and handling.

Lowes priced the Dewalt at $139 while HD had it at $129. When I showed the Amazon price to Lowes, and they checked, they agreed to sell the Dewalt to me at the Amazon price of $119 plus tax. I was able to get better service at Lowes.

In the end, it was the combination of weight, feel, grip, brake, and other things mentioned above.

Thanks fellow for your input. I did take it all into consideration, but knew that in the end it needed to be what felt right in my hand.