Why a Panel Raising Bit?

[phrog]

I was just offered a great deal on both a Panel Raising bit and a Stile and Rail bit set. Why would I need these? Can I not accomplish the same things with a table saw? Thanks.
Richard

[smorris]

I made a couple doors for my sons aquarium stand and raised the panels on the tablesaw. I have to admit I did not enjoy the experience. Having that large panel standing on edge while I pushed it through made me very nervous, it just felt like a kickback waiting to happen with my hand directly above the unguarded blade. I won't do it again. I'm sure others will feel differently about that, but I didn't like it.

[pelligrini]

Depends on the profile you're trying to do. Curved shapes aren't easily done on the tablesaw.

I have a CMT set; rail, stile & panel. The panel bit is a large cove bit set up for a horizontal cut (with a back cutter too). It takes a big hole in a router table to use it. I might be able to do the rail & stiles with conventional router bits, but it would mean several bit changes and a difficult setup.

[catta12]

Panels certainly can be made other ways, but a panel raising bit is the easiest and probably one of the safest ways to do it.

[jackellis]

There's no reason your hands should have to be near the spinning blade in order to raise a panel.

I made the simple jig in the photo to hold a panel upright. When I made the panel in the photo, I used spring clamps, which held the panel onto the jig but allowed some movement. A holddown works much better because you can make it very tight. My jig rides against the fence rather than in the miter slot, so I had to move the fence to the left of the blade since my blade tilts right.

This door is for an over-the-sink cabinet in my new shop. Made of elm. Still needs to be finished and attached to the cabinet.

[phrog]

Thanks to all who have responded so far. But I now have another question, will my PC 690 1.75HP router turn a 3-inch panel raising bit or would I need a more powerful router?
Thanks again,
Richard

[pelligrini]

It'll probably work, but you'd want to make several lighter passes. Trying to do it in one or two passes would probably not work well.

If you're doing a ton of doors you might want to invest in a stouter machine. Maybe if you had a wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket too.

[ragswl4]

I have done it with a Hitachi 1 3/4 HP router. Just make sure you use the correct speed and take multiple passes to raise the panel. In answer to your first post, the rail and stile bits (depending on which you have or get) allow you to have a profile on the inner edge, not possible on a table saw and nearly impossible with other router bits. For shop cabinet doors I wouldn't spend the time to do it but for the house (kitchen/bath/etc) the doors will look much nicer and its a snap to do. To date I have made 40 doors for our kitchen cabinets and it is very easy to do on the router table. I used a Whiteside vertical panel bit and rail and stile bits. Great bits.

[dbhost]

Depends on the profile of said panel raising bit...

Coves are kind of hard to do on a table saw... Not impossible, just hard...

[LCHIEN]

Thanks to all who have responded so far. But I now have another question, will my PC 690 1.75HP router turn a 3-inch panel raising bit or would I need a more powerful router?
Thanks again,
Richard

A PC 690 IIRC, is a fixed speed router at something like 22,000 RPM give or take a couple thou.

If you have a 3" diameter bit I would definately not advise turning it at full speed.

So you need a router speed control for that particular router or just get a variable speed router.

Look at this ref:
http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cf...AF82F6F8B64106

they suggest a speed between 8000 and 12000 for a 3" bit diameter.

As an alternative, you might consider a vertical panel raising bit and a tall fence or a vertical bit in a horizontally mounted router.

[bruce hylton]

phrog; He who dies with the most toys wins. Just asking that question means you are going to lose.

[LarryG]

Richard, you don't mention what kind of router table setup you have, but if it's the accessory table on one of the BT3x00 type saws, the opening in the table is not large enough to accept most horizontal panel-raising bits. That might be one reason you could not put this set to use.

+1 on the PC690 comments. It'll handle the job with multiple passes as long as you can slow the bit down somehow, either via variable speed built into the router (if you have one of the VS models) or an external speed control.

[phrog]

phrog; He who dies with the most toys wins. Just asking that question means you are going to lose.

Almost forgot the object of the game. What was I thinking? My apologies to all. :-)
Richard

[phrog]

Richard, you don't mention what kind of router table setup you have, but if it's the accessory table on one of the BT3x00 type saws, the opening in the table is not large enough to accept most horizontal panel-raising bits. That might be one reason you could not put this set to use.

+1 on the PC690 comments. It'll handle the job with multiple passes as long as you can slow the bit down somehow, either via variable speed built into the router (if you have one of the VS models) or an external speed control.

Larry, thanks for mentioning that I had not completely descibed my setup. I have a PC Router Table with a 3.75 inch opening and I do have a variable speed router control as a separate item from my PC 690 router. Therefore, according to most of the reports I see on here I should be able to use the bit if I use multiple passes. Thanks to all for your responses.
Richard

[phrog]

Jack Ellis, thanks for the photos. Certainly something to think about if I decide not to buy the bits. Your jig is kinda what I had in mind. Again, thanks.

Loring, you are right on the money with the PC 690. I do have a variable router speed controller as a separate item which will allow me to use the PC 690 at slower than standard speeds. In fact, I believe the bit says the max is around 13000, so you right on this also. Thanks for the suggestions.
Richard