Battery Circular saws any use?

[LCHIEN]

My battery tools are Old Craftsman 19.2V C3... yes they are old they started as NiCd then upgraded to NiMH then upgraded to Li-ion batteries.
I only have Li-batteries left, 3 or 4 of them all good.
I have two Multi chemistry chargers.
I have two drill drivers with 3/8 and 1/2 chucks,
I have 2 right angle drill driver
a Light
and impact driver (2?)
I use them lightly and they all work well but the rubber finish is getting a bit worn
The good thing is you can still buy new lithium batteries and used tools readily on eBay. IT was a very, very popular system that lasted a long time because they were able to use all the battery types.

My question is I saw on eBay C3 circ saw with 5-1/2" blade and a 1-9/16 cutting depth which is just enough for 2x4.
Only 15 bucks BIN with 10 bucks shipping.
and they sent me an email to "make an offer" which makes me think I could get it for less than 25 shipped.

Are these things any good at all? Wil they make quickie break down of pieces in the hardware store parking lot? I don't do much mobile work.
Are they even worth having? I need more tools like a hole in the head,

[Jim Frye]

I have the Ryobi blue/yellow 18 volt saw and one of the hyper green models (never used) and use the old circa 1994 model a lot. I put a 25 tooth carbide blade on it and it does a great job with construction lumber. I also use it to break down sheet goods to get the pieces down the basement stairs. I also started with the NiCad battery packs, had them rebuilt by a local battery shop, and then went to the first and second generation of the lithium packs. I mounted a diamond wet/dry 5" blade from Harbor Freight on the old saw and used it to cut bricks this summer for a fireplace remodel. So yes, the saws are pretty good. Notice the Ryobi "bats" hanging on the shop wall in the upper right.

[leehljp]

I have ordered 2 non-Ryobi 18V Li-on batteries, each at different times and regretted both. I did not get good life with either. About 6 months for both, while I have a couple original 18V Li-on Ryobi batteries from around 2012 that are still going strong.

That said, I have the brushless 7 1/4" Ryobi saw (18V) and it works fine. When I am near 120V outlets, I use my Dewalt 7 1/4" or occasionally use my in Japan purchased Hitachi for fine cuts. I do have a need often for the cordless. It is not an all-day work horse, but it sure is good when 10 - 30 minutes use are needed, and long extension cords would be difficult, but possible.

[Jim Frye]

My first three Ryobi 18 volt lithium packs held up pretty well. Two lasted 13 years and the third went for 14 years.

[d_meister]

I have the Milwaukee variant of that small circular saw, and parking lot material break downs is exactly what I used it for, and very occasional use at home, maybe once every three years. I have the Lowe's people cut plywood to a transportable size, these days. I'd always resisted having them rip plywood because of quality of cut, but their quality is better than my parking lot quality

[cwsmith]

I have several Ridgid cordless tools which I purchased back around 2005-2006. Included among them is their 18-Volt circular saw which I have used to cut down 4 x 8 sheet stock. I also their 18-Volt 1/2-inch drill, as well as a 14.4-Volt Impact driver, a 3/8-inch drill and their 9.4-Volt swivel driver.

At this time in my life, I don't use any of them very often, but back then they were very handy to have, especially as we were remodeling the house and I added the workshed.

I've replaced both the 18- and 14.4- Volt batteries under Ridgid's Lifetime replacement program, which is the primary reason I went with the Ridgid lineup.

The cordless circular saw is especially appreciated because as I didn't have to run a long extension cord in the yard or attic area back then. Today, almost everything has been wired, but still havingt the cordless is handy. The only thing I did not like about it at first was that the blade is on the left side of the housing. Soon after the purchase, I was using it in the attic of this 1886-built house, where the wood is much larger and certainly harder than today.

I was on my knees, cutting an access in the floor and I hit a nail, which cause the saw to jump back.... right next to my right knee. No cut, but it woke me up to the danger!

Best application for me is cutting sheet goods, because I get a clearer view of the blade when reaching across the stock with my right hand.

Back at the time all these tools were used often. Not so much anymore. The only tool I did not like was the impact driver. Right after I bought it, i ignorantly used it to assemble some steel shelving in the garage... I may as well have welded them together!

CWS

[JeffG78]

I have the Milwaukee Fuel M18 7-1/4" circular saw to compliment my Milwaukee corded 7-1/4" circular saw I've relied on for 35 years. The M18 saw is actually more powerful and heavier duty than my trusty corded saw. I have a Kreg Accu Cut setup and the cordless saw is great for that use. I clamp the Kreg sled to the saw and rip sheet goods down to size before I run them through the table saw. Not fighting the cord or dragging an extension cord out to the driveway is really nice.

[mpc]

I have several circular saws... I rarely use the corded PC MAG 423 saw now that I have both the Ridgid R885 cordless saw and the Ryobi cordless track saw. Both cordless models use the 6 1/2 inch blades, not the smaller 5 1/2'ers that were found on early cordless circ saws a few years ago. Both cordless models work fine; I put Freud blades in them. As others have posted I mostly use mine for cutting sheet goods down to size and sometimes outdoor construction with 2x4s/2x6s. They work quite well for that. I do have the larger 6 and 8 amp-hour batteries offered by Ridgid and Ryobi as well... these saws will discharge the 4AH batteries fairly quickly. 4AH batteries will make several cuts through 3/4 plywood; probably more than enough to break a sheet into table-saw manageable size or fit-in-the-SUV size. Not having to drag an extension cord outside, or having it hang up on the workpiece, are "you won't believe how much better it is until you try it for yourself" things.

One thing I link about the Ridgid saw and the PC saw is the thick base plate. Rather than the thin stamped metal bases found on most circular saws, these use thicker blocks with square sides roughly a centimeter tall. They are MUCH easier to keep against a guide fence/straight edge and won't "slide under it" if the plywood sags down on the sawhorses while the fence stays rigid, forming a small gap. That bit me once long ago with a different saw. The PC and Ridgid have the same blade-to-base edge distances too so one sawboard works for both - yay! Although I haven't used the sawboards since getting the Ryobi track saw.

So I vote "cordless circular saws are in fact worth it."

mpc

[LCHIEN]

Y'all haven't convinced me yet. I am convinced that it would be convenient for quick jobsite and store parking lot breakdown and one-off cuts, but I can't recall maybe once in the last 20 years that I needed that. Most all of my work is in my shop.

[cwsmith]

I agree with you Loring,

With the exception of cutting down sheet stock, which I haven't done in a few years; and, maybe building a structure like a lawn shed, fence, etc. where I need to cut a 2 x 4 to needed length, most of my wood cutting is done on either my table saw or the radial arm saw.

Come to think of it, even the last few times I cut studs, I found my miter saw with portable stand was used.

Looking at my old corded Craftsman 7" circular saw (yes, 7", as I bought it way back in the 60's) or even the 6-1/2 inch cordless, neither one has been used in several years.

CWS

[leehljp]

Y'all haven't convinced me yet. I am convinced that it would be convenient for quick jobsite and store parking lot breakdown and one-off cuts, but I can't recall maybe once in the last 20 years that I needed that. Most all of my work is in my shop.

I learned with my mechanic hand tools and small hand held motorized tools that large storage tool boxes do not work for me. I am constantly helping others, or doing some minor repair for my girls when I visit them.

There is a huge difference between one who does ALL of their work in their shop/home - versus one who has to use different tools in different locations. I finally figured out for me my best storage is the modular boxes on top of a rolling modular base. This is not where you are in your home tool work situation.

Your situation might change when your kids begin to call on dad to come and fix something that you can do in a couple of hours, when a regular repair man will take a week to come and charge then $1000.

[LCHIEN]

re: kids.
My Daughter's FIL is a contractor wannabe When he comes into town he remodels something in their house. Last time it was the full kitchen remodel, the time before a masterbath remodel etc. The only thing I have done for her is some matching some molding he needed and some picture frames and PWD for the grandkids. The Son lives in Austin and I gave him my spare B&D circular saw which I use when I visit him and he needs something cut.
I don't see myself building a lot of mobile stuff at their homes.

[Jim Frye]

Y'all haven't convinced me yet. I am convinced that it would be convenient for quick jobsite and store parking lot breakdown and one-off cuts, but I can't recall maybe once in the last 20 years that I needed that. Most all of my work is in my shop.

I don't breakdown stuff in the store parking lot, as I carry stuff home on the roof rack and break it down in the driveway or the garage. I actually use my cordless saw for outdoor work at home.

[cwsmith]

Same here, I find it is a lot easier to carry most everything home in my van and trim it either in the driveway or garage. At 12 x 20 my work shed is almost too small to attempt manuevering a full-size sheet of plywood in the shop, especially the heavier sheets.

CWS

[twistsol]

I have a Ryobi 18v cordless saw. It is great for flooring installation vs lugging my miter saw or my RAS. I use it with the Kreg crosscut jig and can do the few rips necessary for flooring freehand. Never used it for anything else and probably wouldn't miss it much if I didn't have it. Since I already had the batteries, I think I paid $39 for it on sale.