How to mount a dremel tool

[LCHIEN]

Most people use Dremel tools handheld.

But sometimes its nice to be able to mount the Dremel motor solidly.

The tool does have a mounting thread under a screw ring on the nose that can be removed.
The thread is 3/4"-10TPI. I have a tap I got for this. Can make a mounting block for anyone needing it if you don't want to get a tap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FXMF974?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _0_0&th=1

Having a fixed tool and moving the work piece is often better than having a moving tool and a workpiece that is fixed or also moving.

[capncarl]

Good way to mount the Dremel. I’ll like to point out something that may not hold true to all models and brands. I don’t think that the dremel should be used without the screw ring unless it is mounted inside a tool holder. The dremel casing is a 2 piece split unit and this screw ring holds the front together. I sometimes use one of my dremel’s quite often and they make my hands hurt for days.

[LCHIEN]

Good way to mount the Dremel. I’ll like to point out something that may not hold true to all models and brands. I don’t think that the dremel should be used without the screw ring unless it is mounted inside a tool holder. The dremel casing is a 2 piece split unit and this screw ring holds the front together. I sometimes use one of my dremel’s quite often and they make my hands hurt for days.

The case is split but on mine, at least, there is clearly a set of screws holding the case halves securely together.
The nose screw is also used for mounting a mini-router base and some other accessories. So it's not really logical that its holding the tool together!

[LCHIEN]

A little more detail on how to make the holder piece for a dremel.

As stated the trim ring around the nose is removed exposing the thread.
I used a piece of 3/4" thick pine. Probably a scrap of 1x3; a 1x2 will probably work.
I advise drill a 1/8"-1/4" deep 1" diameter hole first. Because the threaded part of the tool is only about 1/2".
Then counterbore that all the way through with a 21/32" drill (the correct tap size), I didn't have one (a 16.5 mm will work, too) so I just used a 5/8" forstner which is 1/32 undersized, it seems to work fine when tapping and using it.

Then use a 3/4-10 Tap drill. I used a sub $10 tap (OK it was 2-3 years ago) from Amazon to thread it all the way through.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FXMF974?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title _0_0&th=1
Metalworking taps work just hunky dory on wood. MAke sure you enter the tap perpendicular to the face of the wood.
Usually I remove the drill press belts, chuck the tap in the drill. clamp the workpiece to the table then carefully lower the tap with the drill quill handle and rotate the tap by hand to enter the hole while pressing gently on the press. Once you get a few threads by hand, you can remove everything and finish by hand easier but all square.



Fasten the support to a base. I initially used the holder support by itself clamped in a vise, but I think it's nice to make a simple base.
I use mine horizontal. The hole in the side of the base I use for a Rockler fence clamp to hold it to a workbench top although most any clamp will do. The Dremel tool should be screwed into the hole from the side with the one-inch dia by 1/8" deep countersink. This allows enough of the tool shaft and collet to be exposed on the opposite side.
If you threaded the tap square the tool shaft will be horizontal and parallel to the base.

Here I used it to position the Dremel tool under my drill press for precision lowering an item onto the spinning bit.

The base was clamped with a T-track clamp that held it firmly to the drill press table t-track, although I did not capture that in the picture.

[Jim Frye]

I have a Ryobi variable speed hand tool and it has a router base accessory. I just drilled some holes in the router base to mount it to a stand. Sorry, no pictures and the stand didn't make the move to the new house.