Which type of brad nailer

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  • MissRuth
    Handtools only
    • Feb 2014
    • 1

    Which type of brad nailer

    I don't really understand much about these tools, being a girl and working as a teacher :P But, I need to buy one for some minor home projects I've planned for the spring.
    So, just a little explanation is what I need. I understood from this article that there are some three types of brad nailers - pneumatic, electric and gas powered brad nailer.
    My question is, what kind of this tool is the most appropriate for small home projects What's the difference when working with them, if there is any?

    Thanks a lot guys
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21082
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    types of Brad nailers

    First off brad nails are usually considered the 18 gauge nails in a straight strips of about 100 and are more or less standardized and come in 5/8 to 2" long sizes. They have a partial head which means they have a small lip on one side as opposed to a full, round head like your typical manual nail. They have limited holding power and the head will pull through if you really pull on the nail. So they are typically good for small projects and for tacking things together that have glued joints - keeps them in place while the glue dries. The rule of thumb is that you want 2/3 of the brad to be in the backing piece, for strength. That means its barely adequate for holding 1 by material to anything.

    From most desirable to least for the casual owner:

    Air operated or pneumatic brad nailers are by far the most popular and cheapest. The drawback is you need a compressor - and that can add $60-200 to the price. MY recommendation for you is a Harbor freight model that has 5/8 to 2" brad capability and is NOT a combination ("2-in-1") stapler/brad nailer and costs about $20, use the 20% or 25% off coupons or looks for frequent sales that will get it to $15 or so. If you want a stapler, too, buy it separately for another $15 and you won't get staple sized dents in your work since the combo unit striker leaves a staple sized dent in your work. I would also advise against buying a nailer with less than 2" capacity as you will want the versatility.

    Gas operated ones are terribly expensive and are for the professional who needs to do work on the road but doesn't want to have to lug a compressor because there is no power aty the work site or its heavy or both. In addition to being expensive they require a relatively expensive fuel cell to generate the gas that drives them.

    Electric ones are very disappointing. They seem attractive because it gives you the freedom from a compressor without requiring any additional gas cell and they are cheap, small and light but in reality they don't have enough power to drive nails well. The net power in the electric grid is huge but the instant power deliverable to a nail is limited. The air nailers store compressed air which is sufficient to drive the nail fully. Believe me you will have problems driving even shallow nails or nails into any hard wood with an electric brad nailer.


    for those on a limited budget these are quite suitable for hobby use:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-68021.html
    $20 regular price
    5000 nails will cost about $10.

    these two compressors look identical with different numbers on sale for $60 plus use a coupon
    http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallo...sor-95275.html
    http://www.harborfreight.com/pancake...psi-60637.html
    sign up at the store or online for flyers and you'll get a lot of 20 and 25% off coupons. (some of which they say you can't use on compressors)
    This compressor is adequate for nailing things and inflating tires and sports equipment but not much more. Also good with a blow gun attachment for clearing sawdust off work and out of dusty computers.


    You'll also need a hose. and fittings.
    get a rubber hose not a PVC hose (more flexible), 25 or 50 ft. for about $15-20 like this
    http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-x...ose-69581.html
    a kit with basic fittings and air accessories like this for $13
    http://www.harborfreight.com/20-Piec...Kit-68191.html
    it has quick connect fittings to attach the hose and tool to the compressor plus nozzles for filling tires and toys and a blow nozzle for cleaning up. Then you'll be set.

    Net cost should be under $100 depending on how aggressive you get with HF coupons (i.e. use multiple 20% off one item coupons on multiple trips.)
    (if you have to you can skip the rubber hose and use the coiled hose in the kit to start).

    Remember be very careful with this power tool, it'll punch right thru your hand in an instant. Wear safety glasses or goggles and keep the work holding hand more than a brad's length from the gun at all times as brads have been known to be deflected by hard knots and convoluted grain and come back at you- they will literally come out of the wood next to the point of entry or the side of your work. Also, to make you nailer last, most require a few drops of air tool oil each day of use, most come with a small bottle in the box to be dropped into the inlet of the nailer.

    PS. I own a craftsman, a bostitch and a Harbor freight brand brad nailers - the Harbor freight is the best bang for the buck.
    There are also other size nailers ranging from pin nailers (much smaller) to finish nailers (much bigger) and even bigger framing and roof nailers but you specifically mentioned brad nailers for which I described the limitations in the first paragraph.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 02-19-2014, 09:22 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #3
      I agree with what Loring said but will say it a bit differently in case that is useful.

      My first recommendation is the same as Loring's. Go to HF and buy a nailer and also a small compressor. You should be able to get both for under $100. The compressor will also be handy when a tire needs air. The compressor will be noisy, however, and it isn't always handy to haul the compressor, hose, and nailer to the work. For the nailer, the options are an 18 gauge - probably best for you - or a 24 gauge pinner or a 16 gauge finish nailer. The guage is the diameter of the nail with 16 the thickest and 24 the thinnest. 24s are the least noticable but also hold the worst and have a nasty habit of following grain and turning into a U shape sometimes (and poking you). The 16 hold the best and deflect the least but are also quite noticable. For putting up trim, the 16 gauge is best but 18 gauge will work. For tacking moldings on furniture that will be clear finished, I like to use the 24 due to appearance. For painted pieces, the 16 gauge hole can be easily filled. HF has nailers of all these types and they are inexpensive so I have one of each. I also have a couple staplers. The compressor will work with all of them.

      If you do not want to deal with the mess of a compressor and hose and are sure you only want one of these devices, Ryobi makes a brad nailer, 18 gauge, that works with their 18V batteries. It is really a pneumatic nailer but it compresses it's own air. The Ryobi 18V cordless tools are all useful - I have a bunch of them - but I don't have this brad nailer (yet). Even though I have a pneumatic it would occasionally be nice to just be able to pick up the nailer and drive a nail (as opposed to turning on the compressor, waiting for it to fill the tank, and getting a hose hooked up). The reviews on the Ryobi are generally favorable. It sells for about $120. That might not get you the battery or charger too so it is more expensive.

      If a pneumatic nailer doesn't work well, it will be with the longest nails it is rated to drive in hard material. If you need to use a bunch of 2 inch in hardwood, you might be better off with a compressor driven 18 gauge nailer (and possibly not a HF). My nailers are a mix of brands but include HF and some work better than others. My 18 gauge stapler will not really drive the longest staples HF says it will even into softwood. My other HF units are fine, however. For the money HF units are great but there is a reason many of us buy "nicer" brands. But for occasional use and especially if you will mostly be well within the rated capacity, HF is fine.
      Last edited by JimD; 02-19-2014, 08:44 AM.

      Comment

      • Whaler
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 3281
        • Sequim, WA, USA.
        • DW746

        #4
        You can't go wrong with this one. http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-P...d+nailer+combo
        I have had mine for 6 years and it is well worth the money.
        Dick

        http://www.picasaweb.google.com/rgpete2/

        Comment

        • cwsmith
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 2745
          • NY Southern Tier, USA.
          • BT3100-1

          #5
          I too will agree with Loring's post.... an air-operated brad nailer would be my best recommendation too.

          While I have a "Ridgid" brand nailer (Home Depot is the retailer) and it has performed outstandingly for me, I really don't use it enough to justify the $100-plus cost, and if I had to do it over again, Harbour Freight would be my first choice today. (We didn't have an HF when I bought my Ridgid though.)

          As mentioned, you will need a compressor and a proper hose. My recommendation there would be to get a 'lubricated' compressor, vs an 'oil-less'. The former will be much quieter and last longer, while an 'oil-less' is significantly noisier. I'm not sure if HF sells a small lubricated unit; but again, I'd look there. My lubricated compressor is a Craftsman (Sears) and I believe they run around $120.

          IF the higher noise level doesn't bother you, than an 'oil-less' would be just fine as both types are relatively low cost, with oil-less slightly cheaper. HF may well be a good source.

          As far as the hose is concerned, I'd opt of a good rubber hose as they are significantly more flexable. For my use, with my compressor, I use only a 25 ft hose, as it is easier to use, coil, etc.

          I hope this helps,

          CWS
          Think it Through Before You Do!

          Comment

          • dbhost
            Slow and steady
            • Apr 2008
            • 9253
            • League City, Texas
            • Ryobi BT3100

            #6
            I can't add a whole lot to the discussion beyond what Loring and the others have already said. I personally own the older Harbor Freight brad nailer and I have used the tar out of the poor thing for at least 4 years or so, I have a big Harbor Freight compressor, but have used the nailer with a friend's Harbor Freight pancake compressor (the small ones Loring linked to) and it will drive that gun all day long...

            One thing I didn't see mentioned is this...

            Get a bottle of air tool oil. At the beginning of every work day put a drop of air tool oil in the air inlet fitting on the gun, that will be enough to keep the moving parts moving nicely.

            Speaking from the voice of experience, I can tell you this...

            #1. Electric. Trouble prone, tend to be radically underpowered. Don't waste your time, money, and effort.
            #2. Pnuematic. Reasonably cost effective, host is somewhat of a hassle, but you get used to it quickly, requires a compressor, fittings, hose, and oil on top of the nailer and brads themselves. Very reliable, and effective. This is the typical choice of both hobbyists and professionals.
            #3. Gas powered. The gas they are talking about is typically expanding combustion gasses from a .22 caliber charge. It literally sounds like a gun going off every time you drive a nail. These are useful for power nailing into concrete, or using power nailing in sites where electricity to drive a compressor is not available such as a mountain cabin...

            The Porter Cable kit mentioned above is a good one if you can get it on sale. I believe Home Depot also sells a similar kit branded by Husky that seems decent...
            Last edited by dbhost; 02-19-2014, 01:26 PM.
            Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

            Comment

            • Bill in Buena Park
              Veteran Member
              • Nov 2007
              • 1865
              • Buena Park, CA
              • CM 21829

              #7
              Loring's (LCHIEN) input is right on. I have the guns and compressor he mentions, several years, working good, and price is right. However, if you don't have a Harbor Freight nearby and prefer a closer retailer, such as Lowes...

              I've also had good luck with this compressor/gun combo by Campbell Hausfeld (seems to be discontinued and replaced with this version. Works well for trim nailing, small project fastening, price is ok. Easy-to-carry shape, but this comes with the combo nailer/stapler (see Loring's comments on larger dent when only using brads), so weigh against your need.
              Bill in Buena Park

              Comment

              • woodturner
                Veteran Member
                • Jun 2008
                • 2047
                • Western Pennsylvania
                • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                #8
                Agree with everyone that pneumatic is the way to go. Just wanted to add, though, that you can get away with a storage tank rather than a compressor, if necessary. The storage tank can be refilled at the gas station air pump or with any other air compressor.

                An air compressor is a better option in most cases, but to save cost and increase portability, an air tank is an option.
                --------------------------------------------------
                Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                Comment

                • Mr__Bill
                  Veteran Member
                  • May 2007
                  • 2096
                  • Tacoma, WA
                  • BT3000

                  #9
                  A word of caution. Air nailers are really quick, they can drive a nail or brad through your finger faster than you can feel it. Often the nail or brad will follow the grain and not go straight in. At all times keep parts of your body far enough away from where you hope the nail will go so as to keep it from going into you. My rule of thumb is twice the length of the nail or brad. It's really easy to hold a picture frame and shoot the nail only to have it go at a right angle into your fingers or hand.

                  That said, don't be afraid, just careful.

                  Bill
                  on the left coast

                  Comment

                  • gerti
                    Veteran Member
                    • Dec 2003
                    • 2233
                    • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
                    • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

                    #10
                    Originally posted by dbhost
                    #3. Gas powered. The gas they are talking about is typically expanding combustion gasses from a .22 caliber charge. It literally sounds like a gun going off every time you drive a nail. These are useful for power nailing into concrete, or using power nailing in sites where electricity to drive a compressor is not available such as a mountain cabin...
                    Nope, not it. You are talking about Powder Actuated Tools, that use powder cartridges kind of like a starter gun.

                    What Loring was talking about was a cordless nailer that uses a cartridge similar to those for a refillable gas lighter. Paslode cordless nailers for example.

                    Comment

                    • Clock Maker
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Dec 2013
                      • 21

                      #11
                      This was posted by Cochese, looks like a great deal......
                      http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=59074

                      Comment

                      • durango dude
                        Senior Member
                        • Mar 2011
                        • 934
                        • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                        • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                        #12
                        I was flirting with the idea of an electric brad nailer - but then I read the reviews at any site that sold them ---- it's simply an idea that does not seem to work.

                        I don't like using nails in my work - so I don't use a heck of a lot of brads.

                        This one works for me (you'll want a better compressor if you start doing other stuff, though)

                        http://www.homedepot.com/p/Professio...8?N=5yc1vZc27h

                        Comment

                        • LCHIEN
                          Internet Fact Checker
                          • Dec 2002
                          • 21082
                          • Katy, TX, USA.
                          • BT3000 vintage 1999

                          #13
                          Originally posted by durango dude
                          I was flirting with the idea of an electric brad nailer - but then I read the reviews at any site that sold them ---- it's simply an idea that does not seem to work.

                          I don't like using nails in my work - so I don't use a heck of a lot of brads.

                          This one works for me (you'll want a better compressor if you start doing other stuff, though)

                          http://www.homedepot.com/p/Professio...8?N=5yc1vZc27h
                          that comes with a 1-1/4" brad nailer... I'd hold out for one that does up to 2 inch brads for the extra versatility.

                          Brad nailers are just great for the quick hobby project where you want to accurately tack together two pieces with glue but don't want to have to struggle with clamps and the parts sliding around after clamping. The're also good for temporarily aligning parts that you intend to align with countersunk screws for example. Its easier to hold the thing in alignment with one hand and quickly fire a brad than to try and hold parts in alignment while drilling countersunk holes.
                          Loring in Katy, TX USA
                          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                          Comment

                          • LCHIEN
                            Internet Fact Checker
                            • Dec 2002
                            • 21082
                            • Katy, TX, USA.
                            • BT3000 vintage 1999

                            #14
                            Originally posted by dbhost
                            Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
                            #3. Gas powered. The gas they are talking about is typically expanding combustion gasses from a .22 caliber charge. It literally sounds like a gun going off every time you drive a nail. These are useful for power nailing into concrete, or using power nailing in sites where electricity to drive a compressor is not available such as a mountain cabin...

                            Originally posted by gerti
                            Nope, not it. You are talking about Powder Actuated Tools, that use powder cartridges kind of like a starter gun.

                            What Loring was talking about was a cordless nailer that uses a cartridge similar to those for a refillable gas lighter. Paslode cordless nailers for example.
                            I am barely familiar with " gas operated" nailers but I do think the confusion comes from the fact that there are several manufacturers all with unique implementations of the general idea of using expanding gasses to power the nailer. I know of one that uses .22 caliber rimfire blanks (one per shot, probably larger gauge nails, not brads) to use its explosive charge to drive nails, others use combustible gases or powders in differing formulas that come in a proprietary replacable cartridges or cells (good for multiple shots). Fuel cells for nailers: http://www.tools-plus.com/bostitch-9b12062r.html Example gun:http://www.tools-plus.com/bostitch-9b12062r.html Note these need both fuel cells and batteries which are the ignition source.

                            Electric nailers also some in different flavors - the bad ones we talked about use an eletromagnetically propelled solenoid to drive the nail. THere are other ones, typically rechargable battery powered that have a compressor and a small reservoir for air within the gun itself. That can be a powerful driver BUT the response waiting for enough charge for the first nail can be slow and the unit rather heavy to carry for long use. I think they are working on making them light and fast so they now claim quick response and light weight in addition to no hose but they must be more complex and still more expensive than air nailers. Example: http://www.tools-plus.com/bostitch-gbt1850k.html

                            I've not used the electric-battery compressor types or any of the gas powered types as they are typically more expensive and special use than the air types;
                            Probably quite a bit heavier than their equivalent counterparts for example it has all the parts of a pneumatic nailer plus a battery and a small compressor motor and pump. Not something you want to use for a long time if the batteries even last that long.
                            I do have several brad nailers, a couple of finish nailers and a 23 ga. pinner. as well as both a wide crown and a narrow crown stapler, all air powered. I do also have a hammer, an electric stapler (sucks) and a manual stapler (also sucks).
                            Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-20-2014, 02:23 AM.
                            Loring in Katy, TX USA
                            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                            Comment

                            • dbhost
                              Slow and steady
                              • Apr 2008
                              • 9253
                              • League City, Texas
                              • Ryobi BT3100

                              #15
                              Originally posted by LCHIEN
                              ... and a manual stapler (also sucks).
                              Not to digress too far, but what manual stapler are you using that you aren't happy with. I just use an old school Arrow T-50, the basic Chrome one, and I like it... Drives the staple fully home with no real fuss. Yeah the pull is a bit strong, but not problematic for most of my projects... My biggest complaint with my stapler is I keep forgetting it up in the attic when I am stapling up the Attic Foil...
                              Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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