Jointing woes

[woodynoob]

I'll take some time in next week's class to examine the jointer and get a better understanding of how it works and it's measurements. I'll try some tests to see if the components are aligned, assuming the teachers don't intercept me.

The jointer I was working with is big.. Not a home shop jointer by any means. There is a "small" jointer available also, but that is still much bigger than any jointer I've seen at at retail stores. So, the wood I'm working with is shorter than each table--no problem.

Excellent idea about the winding sticks. I had read about them before and thought they were primarily for hand tool (non-powered) woodworking, but I can see how useful it would be to understand the wood I have in hand.

[All Thumbs]

One more important thing to remember is that, it is often better to rough cut a board before jointing it. If you have a 1/2" bow over the length of an 8' board, but only need three boards approx. 2' long, then by cutting that 8' board into thirds before jointing it, you have substantially reduced the cup in each of your shorter boards and therefor will need fewer passes over the jointer and through the planer.

[Ken Massingale]

"Daryl—When you say that the pressure should be applied on the out-feed table, this is not what I’m doing. For this piece of wood, I’m placing firm pressure toward the rear of the wood (is that the “in-feed table”?) and light pressure on the “out-feed table”. That was what I was told to do…"

That is your problem. You can't do anything but make a wedge with this technique.
If the instructor taught this you really need to consider what else he may be teaching incorrectly.

Closely read Tom's instructions and explanations here and watch the short video at the bottom of the page.

[Stytooner]

Opps! Moderated a reply. Sorry, Ken.

Good advice, Ken. That is the way I learned it as well.

[Ken Massingale]

Opps! Moderated a reply. Sorry, Ken.

Good advice, Ken. That is the way I learned it as well.

What did you do to me you darn Mod????!!!

I missed your slap completely Lee.

[Pappy]

Take heart in the fact that you are not the first to have problems in learning to use a jointer. A jointer is one of the simplest of all stationary power tools, but probably the most difficult to master. Practice is the key. Once you hit the right combination of speed, pressure, and hand placement you will wonder why it took so long to figure it out.

The link in Ken's post is one of the best tutorials on jointers I have seen. Since you don't own the machine, make sure the owner agrees that adjustments need to be made before making them. As to technique, read the article and watch the video several times. As has been said, the pressure should be applied to the outfeed table once the stock has passed over the knives. I will add that the pressure is applied just past the cutter head, using a hand over hand action as shown in the video. .

You said even the smaller jointer in the shop is bigger than the ones you have seen in retail stores. How big are they? Normal for most home shops is a 6" jointer. An 8" jointer is a luxury in most cases or, like me, a deal just came along that was too hard to pass up.

[LCHIEN]

...

You said even the smaller jointer in the shop is bigger than the ones you have seen in retail stores. How big are they? Normal for most home shops is a 6" jointer. An 8" jointer is a luxury in most cases or, like me, a deal just came along that was too hard to pass up.

There's two main things that define a jointer... one is the width that you can joint and as Pappy said, ones for hobby use are most often 6-1/8" and sometimes 8", but there is also the length of the infeed and outfeed tables, generally for 6" jointers they total 44" and the general guidelines are that you can properly joint boards twice the total length.

Other key stats are number of knives and the HP of the motor.

So aI am curious, too, how large is the jointer in your shop class?

[capncarl]

A jointer is like a blender, a couple of passes through is almost too much, each additional passes through makes results worse.

capncarl

[Lonnie in Orlando]

I attached this chart to my jointer to help me diagnose problems ...
> R&F Woodworking

- Lonnie

[Carpenter96]

I don't know if I have been doing this wrong. I was taught to have all pressure on the infeed side at the begining and even pessure on infeed and outfeed tables once the board is on both tables and to finish with all the pressure on the outfeed table. I have taught many students this method and they learn very quickly that uneven pressure will result in a wedge shape. Just a note that cup is across the grain from edge to edge of the board and bow is along the grain from end to end. No disrespect to your instructors but if the machinery is adjusted properly they should be able to tell you what is wrong with your technique. With the correct technique and some practice it should not take long until you are jointing with the best. Also plus one on the Jointer is to make one good face and one edge that is straight and 90 degrees to the good face. It was never intended to dress all four sides of the lumber. The thickness planer makes parallel faces and the table saw makes parallel edges.

Regards Bob

[woodynoob]

The jointer I used to create my poplar wedge has a 12 inch blade and the tables are just under 4 feet each.

I didn't have much time, but did take a warped piece of pine and jointed and surface planed it down--no problem. After reading the advice in this forum, I had a better feel for the wood.