where do i find a short 1/4" shank bit extender

[LCHIEN]

I am so exasperated I have drill bits that average 3"-4"-5" long.
I'd like to countersink them with a countersinking bit but those things are all about an inch to an inch and a half long.
Which means I usually have to raise the DP table and then I lose my concentric position and have to realign and its so much a pain. If I had a 2-3 inch extension for the countersinking bit it would be just above the point of entry which would be ideal.

So it needs to have a 1/4" round receiver close fit with two set screws and a short round extension shank.

Anyone know where I can find one?
I did a search and all I can find are real long ones (6", 10" and 12") for drilling deep holes or the 1/4" quick change hex shanks. Surely I'm not the only one with this problem.

PS I just want something like this but 1/4" and 2-inches long. I don't mind the hex shank.
THis one is 3/8" round shank and 4 inches long.

http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Fors...=bit+extension


P.P.S. Does 4" extension mean that it makes the bit and extension 4" longer than it was or does i mean that the end to end length of the device is 4" but it extends less than that because the shank of the original bit is swallowed into the length of the extender? In that case maybe 4" is what I want after all. Still its the wrong shank size.

PPPS - answering my own question, this similar part says overall length 4", shank length 2-3/16. so I guess that 4" is the overall length of the other, too.
http://www.amazon.com/Forstner-Bit-E...ref=pd_cp_hi_2

[beetee3]

Buy one that's longer than you need then customize it with a hacksaw, cut-off saw or grinder.

Merry Kringle, y'all.

[LCHIEN]

Buy one that's longer than you need then customize it with a hacksaw, cut-off saw or grinder.

Merry Kringle, y'all.

I thought someone would suggest that, I thought of it too but the long ones have the main length the same size as the housing that goes over the original bit shank, its quite large and then they reduce the shank the last 1-1/2 inches for the drill chuck to grab onto. I'm afraid the larger diameter may be too big for my chuck.

[LCHIEN]

Now I'm thinking some 1/4" shaft couplers and a piece of 1/4" rod.... I hope its all concentric and does not wobble... a lot of parts involved.

[LinuxRandal]

Stupid question, but could you drill out and put in the two set screws yourself and use a magnetic extension as the base?

Or something like a Yankee screwdriver bit adapter: http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/BSM-...131222145816:s

Snappy sells a chuck adapter that might be close: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...nge-Chuck.aspx
and they have countersinks that you can put drill bits in.

Something my grandfather had, that may have come from an older drill, was a collet on a stem. I know some are still made and sold, I haven't had a use though (should be able to find at a box store) so I don't have sizes.

Then MSC industrial supply, has bit extenders (the shortest is 4"), but they also list the size bits they fit and the outside diameter. That could help with knowing it will fit if going to make your own.

I am throwing out multiple idea's, due to any extension will exaggerate any wobble.

[LCHIEN]

Stupid question, but could you drill out and put in the two set screws yourself and use a magnetic extension as the base?

Or something like a Yankee screwdriver bit adapter: http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/BSM-...131222145816:s

Snappy sells a chuck adapter that might be close: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...nge-Chuck.aspx
and they have countersinks that you can put drill bits in.

Something my grandfather had, that may have come from an older drill, was a collet on a stem. I know some are still made and sold, I haven't had a use though (should be able to find at a box store) so I don't have sizes.

Then MSC industrial supply, has bit extenders (the shortest is 4"), but they also list the size bits they fit and the outside diameter. That could help with knowing it will fit if going to make your own.

I am throwing out multiple idea's, due to any extension will exaggerate any wobble.

LR I looked at your suggestions, the Yankee adapter smallest size is 5/16 and I need 1/4"

The magnetic bit adapter is a commonly available parts. I find them to be loosely toleranced (e.g. the 1/4" hex shank bits rattle.). Assuming I could drill it out and the round shank fit tightly, I'd still need to remove the slding lock sleeve see if there is enough material for a set screw (not likely).

thanks for the thoughts anyway.

I found some inexpensive tightly toleranced 1/4 shaft couplers and I have some pieces of precision 1/4" rod I can use. Hopefully won't wobble much, if any.

[Stytooner]

This 6" from McMaster Carr is $4.05.
It can easily be cut to your optimized length.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dr...nsions/=px49ax

[JR]

How about a combination drill and countersink? This set is from Woodcraft.

[unclecritic]

This may not work for you either, but my dad use to mass produce little things out of his shop years ago and he had the same situation, and he got around it by mounting a 1/4" chuck from a burned up hand drill on a bolt with the right threads with the head cut off. It was actually a keyless chuck, and i remember it because he would leave it in the drill press most of the time because it was faster and he made one with a 1/2" keyless as well. Was nice not needing a chuck key most of the time. I don't remember if he ground flats on the bolt or not.

It might be too long for your situation, but if you had the right chuck and bolt lying around it might be worth a shot. Ive seen this tip for years in numerous magazines, but in my mind at least, dad was the genius that came up with it

[JR]

... or how about a router collet extender? This one is from MLCS.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

How 'bout a keyless chuck adapter? They are cheap, not too long, and mount into the chuck in your drill press. Google "keyless chuck adapter."

Or you can drill the hole first; insert some plywood between the workpiece and the table; use the hole to position the countersink. If the piece is against a fence, then you only have to adjust left-to-right.

- Lonnie

[Stytooner]

Lonnie, that is actually how I do deeper holes on the DP. I have several pieces of plywood under the DP. I keep stacking those under a thick part that needs a deeper hole. Works great. I don't use a DP table though. Just the regular cast iron top on most of my DP's. I hold everything by hand, which makes it easy. I have the belt pretty loose on it and in a stall, the chuck simply stops turning.
Safe and simple as long as you hit the switch quickly in a stall.

The exception to this is my Grizzly radial DP. It has a nice large table on it. I use a lot of hole saws and Forstners on this DP, so things get clamped to that table for sure.

[LinuxRandal]

LR I looked at your suggestions, the Yankee adapter smallest size is 5/16 and I need 1/4"

The magnetic bit adapter is a commonly available parts. I find them to be loosely toleranced (e.g. the 1/4" hex shank bits rattle.). Assuming I could drill it out and the round shank fit tightly, I'd still need to remove the slding lock sleeve see if there is enough material for a set screw (not likely).

thanks for the thoughts anyway.

I found some inexpensive tightly toleranced 1/4 shaft couplers and I have some pieces of precision 1/4" rod I can use. Hopefully won't wobble much, if any.

I just gave you one site, others make them as well, since there are multiple size Yankee screwdrivers:
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...info/983-0080/
The above has smaller. (I am not a fan of the Lee Valley ones)

Sliding lock sleeve? Not all the ones come with that, I know they were one of the items on the counter of my local mom and pop hardware store for a long time.

But it sounds like you have your needs figured out. I would be interested in seeing what you come up with and how it works.

I think I would have put a hose clamp, below the table, so I knew where it was positioned, and just move it, or buy one of the whatever brand, countersinks that go on the bits. (I've come to love them)
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Screw-Bit.aspx

[LCHIEN]

I have a set of the all-in-one drill countersink and stop for wood screws. Actually more than one set. At least one set with tapered drills. Like these:


But I like to C-sink my larger holes when making items, the 1/4" and 5/16 and 3/8" holes for machine bolts, dowel pivots, etc just a little chamfer to make them look nice. and ease getting the bolt into the hole. I generally drill one hole quite close fitting (1/4" for a 1/4-20 bolt) and make the mate 5/16th as I improve my machining accuracy. I also do it because some woods, like MDF tend to raise a little edge around the drilled hole that keep sandwiched parts from mating perfectly.

I like to use the wormhole or zero flute countersink bits in 82°


they cut cleanly and don't chatter, I have some up to 1" diameter.

[capncarl]

I believe that I saw that extension at Lowes in the electrical asile in their electrical tool section. The have extensions that are 6 or 8 feet long as well.
Capncarl