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In my small shop, all I can fit is a bench top jointer. I have looked at the Jet combo jointer/planers but have read many bad reviews on the 8" and 10" models. The big issue I have read about benchtop jointers is in regards to the short beds and wood support. Would having an outfeed table help in that regards? I have most of my tools on rolling stands built such that my work bench is the same height. For instance my table saw, the work bench acts as outfeed table. Same with my router table, the height of the table is the same as the workbench. I just roll the router table to the workbench and workbench becomes outfeed. I plan to do the same with the cabinet I build for my planer and jointer. Also most of the wood I work with is typically no longer than six feet. I have been thinking about getting the Grizzly G0726 6" benchtop jointer with cast iron table.
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theroretically outfeed tables can help, but building an in/outfeed table that has the repeated stability and accuracy of a long cast iron table is truly not easy. I think it would be very frustrating and doomed to failure.
That's why they are made of large pieces of cast iron.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions -
At one time I picked up a used 4" benchtop at a flea market for $25, just as a lark. Properly set up, it worked very well. I wouldn't suggest it for production work, or large heavy stock, but for most DIY projects you can get some good service.
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For what it's worth, I have a 6" benchtop jointer, and I never use it for anything over 4' in length. For longer stock I whip out the jointer plane and enjoy the quiet as I true up my stock...
I have tried using folding infeed rollers on long stock, and they do help, a LOT.... But they are such a pain in the backside that I would rather go the hand plane route...Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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Save your money, I found thay all suck
Bruce"Western civilization didn't make all men equal,
Samuel Colt did"
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Might consider getting a long handplane. I have a short 6" Chinese Rockwell knockoff as a jointer. Most of the time I'll grab my Stanley No 8 or No 7's to do a few boards. They're quick and quiet, and no setup time needed.ErikComment
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Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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You could make a long shooting board.
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So building a rolling stand so that the jointer bed would be the same height and level to my workbench will not really work?
What I am wanting to do is start buying and using rough lumber and surfacing/squaring all sides. I have a router and tablesaw of course. I have seen many jigs to turn a router and straight bit into an edge jointer to get one straight edge. Of course the tablesaw would then get the other edge straight. With a jointer hand plane being used to get both faces flat and of course get the board to desired thickness, would there still be any need for a thickness planer? I am by no means a production shop and have recently started using hand tools more just for the sake of learning how to make things with them that look just as nice as what I can now make with power tools.Comment
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I don't think so. If the cast iron table on a jointer were off by 1/16th inch (either non parallel and/or high or low) the results would be terrible. If you've ever tuned a jointer you would know.
I don't think you can sucessfully get a rolling stand the same height and perfectly level with the tables on your jointer. Distance magnifies all errors.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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It doesn't mean it can't work, it's just that the tolerances normally employed in jointing aren't easy to achieve with a rolling stand and a bench as outfeed. I think some of those tight tolerances aren't really necessary though.
I still prefer using my thickness planer after jointing a face and an edge by hand. I still have problems keeping both faces parallel. I can get 'em flat with a handplane, but it doesn't mean that the faces would be parallel. It take me a while to thickness well by hand. I can make a wedge shaped board very quickly though.ErikComment
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I have no experience with a jointer and did not know that any outfeed tables had to be so precise. Anytime I use my workbench as outfeed, the tool is butted right up against the bench. Of course tablesaw and router outfeed do not seem to require such a precise leveling. My bench and tablesaw and router tables are level by eyesight.Comment
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Like was mentioned previously, for shorter stock, a benchtop jointer is great. My Sunhill has beds that are only slightly shorter than the standard floor model 6" jointers. (I think 1.5" overall shorter than the Ridgid jointer). They ARE good for shops that are cramped for space... For longer stock though, I can't stress strongly enough that unless you are flush with a TON of cash, and space, nothing can beat a decent jointer plane. A #7 is just about right... If I had to pick the power jointer or a jointer plane, I would pick the plane any day of the week...Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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It looks like I am going to go the route of a No. 7 jointer plane and a Dewalt DW734 thickness planer. The way I understand it I would use the jointer plane or router and straight bit, and the tablesaw to get straight edges. The jointer plane to get one face surface flat and then finish up on the thickness planer.Comment
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