orphan Stihl Chainsaw

[pelligrini]

If it were me, I'd give the guy another call and get a time when it will be picked up. If the guy misses that I'd fix it up and call it mine.

If the dude shows up weeks or months later, I'd hand him an invoice for storage and repairs.

[phrog]

If it were me, I'd give the guy another call and get a time when it will be picked up. If the guy misses that I'd fix it up and call it mine.

If the dude shows up weeks or months later, I'd hand him an invoice for storage and repairs.

Sounds like a reasonable approach to me.

[LCHIEN]

If I'd wanted to steal a saw I would not have called; just let him think it fell off the truck.

I figured be be right back since its not a cheap tool and he uses it heavily every day. He indicated a couple of days at the most; Houston is a large city and they work all over. I'm surprised its not picked up so I'm really figuring he doesn't think it worth the trip.

He's a business, he contracted to provide and take care of the tools among other things. So I have no obligation to make any extensive efforts to return it to him. Letting him know and making it available to pick up is what I think the proper thing to do. And I did give him a nice tip.

So I'm not claiming it yet, just thinking if he doesn't what would I do. Seems a bit of a dangerous saw model. esp. for a chainsaw newbie. I take pretty good care of my tools so you can see what I'm thinking with this one... if it were mine there's some pieces got to be fixed!

It probably doesn't need the chain oiler to test out... you can just dribble some oil on it?

BTW DAL, its a 13" bar from tip to saw body, I guess that's how you measure.

[Dal300]

Bar is measured from tip to end of the adjustment. I would expect it to be a 14" in that case.

If you don't have any bar and chain oil use some 30wt. or whatever you have to test it.
Don't over do it with the test.

I have a nagging feeling he left it because it was hard to start, the oiler went titsup on him or the motor is hammered.

Anything but a roasted engine is fixable pretty cheaply compared to the cost of a new saw.

Check for a ridge along the edge of the bar where the chain runs along it. If you can feel it with a fingernail it needs to be taken down.

The top of the cutter tooth should have a little line incised into it. If the angle of the tooth doesn't match that, someone screwed up while sharpening by hand. I don't sharpen freehand or with those cheap saw file guides. They are nearly worthless.
I use a Granberg 106A (yeah it's an antique for the connoisseurs), but Oregon makes a good look alike and Granberg also has updated models.

DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC SHARPENER the first thing that will happen is that you'll take off too much with your cut and the saw will try to cut sideways.
The second thing to happen is that you will lose the temper on the teeth. I have used 2 chains to cut up five 60-70' long oaks, one of which provided 4 cords of wood, I didn't count the rest.
Sharpening with the File-N-Joint takes about 15 minutes and about 2 stroked per tooth. The second chain is still about 80-90%. the first one died a horrible death when I found a big chunk of cement in the middle of the tree where someone tried to stop the rot.
Sharpening is an art along with a science melded together.
I had a guy that has been sharpening and cutting professionally for years tell me that I couldn't get ribbons from my chains. He was amazed when I showed him pictures.

[All Thumbs]

Seems a bit of a dangerous saw model. esp. for a chainsaw newbie. I take pretty good care of my tools so you can see what I'm thinking with this one... if it were mine there's some pieces got to be fixed!

It isn't THAT bad. Search youtube for "chainsaw kickback." The problem isn't unlike using a table saw. But when kickback occurs, you're holding the projectile (the saw).

The handle makes getting adequate leverage to control the saw during kickback difficult, and the saw can literally fly out of your hands. The trick is to observe proper safety precautions. And that means no plunge cutting.

Even more importantly, know where the saw will go if kickback occurs. That area MUST be clear. Nobody close by. No obstacles.

Download and read the manual, and watch some chainsaw safety videos at youtube.

[Dal300]

Agree with All Thumbs completely.

No one, and I mean NO one get's directly in front or directly behind the saw. Especially a top handle. You only have one hand to control it and don't be tempted to use your other hand to hold it down by using the chain brake.

The little saw is a great one if you respect it, a dangerous foe if you lose respect. That's why it's sold only to professionals.

Learn to do up cuts, down cuts, Vee cuts and combination cuts as needed by reading what the pressure on the piece you are going to cut is telling you.

[LCHIEN]

It isn't THAT bad. Search youtube for "chainsaw kickback." The problem isn't unlike using a table saw. But when kickback occurs, you're holding the projectile (the saw).

The handle makes getting adequate leverage to control the saw during kickback difficult, and the saw can literally fly out of your hands. The trick is to observe proper safety precautions. And that means no plunge cutting.

Even more importantly, know where the saw will go if kickback occurs. That area MUST be clear. Nobody close by. No obstacles.

Download and read the manual, and watch some chainsaw safety videos at youtube.

Plunge cut? does that mean sticking the tip of the saw into the wood rather than using the sides?

I can't get the manual because its a restricted sale model, apparently.

I guess kickbacks occur because the wood closes up around the sides of the bar and chain? Tossing out the saw as a result?

I assume kickbacks occur if you let the wood close up around the chain and bar, for instance making an upcut to the bottom of a limb - would cause the whole chainsaw to be thrown when the chain seizes in the wood.

[All Thumbs]

Plunge cut? does that mean sticking the tip of the saw into the wood rather than using the sides?

I can't get the manual because its a restricted sale model, apparently.

I guess kickbacks occur because the wood closes up around the sides of the bar and chain? Tossing out the saw as a result?

I assume kickbacks occur if you let the wood close up around the chain and bar, for instance making an upcut to the bottom of a limb - would cause the whole chainsaw to be thrown when the chain seizes in the wood.

You have to know where the tension and compression are before cutting. So you can't really universally say an upcut is unsafe.

Read this:
http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpub...72805/ch04.pdf

[cabinetman]

There's a lot of good info on chain saws and their use. Nothing wrong with being educated for their safe use. For that particular saw, I would get a firm answer on its availability before I put any time or money into its use.



.

[Dal300]

The saw guy has the cap in stock. About $5.

The best way to learn to use a chainsaw is to get out and use it with someone to show you how that also has all their fingers, toes, arms, legs and various other human components.

[LCHIEN]

The saw guy has the cap in stock. About $5.

The best way to learn to use a chainsaw is to get out and use it with someone to show you how that also has all their fingers, toes, arms, legs and various other human components.

is it better to learn from a guy who thinks he knows or from a guy who found out the hard way?

[Dal300]

Well, experience is a formidable instructor!

[NewDIYer]

How can we say that?

The best way to learn to use a chainsaw is to get out and use it with someone to show you how that also has all their fingers, toes, arms, legs and various other human components.

I have all these components and will still not be able to show 'how to' on the saw.

Just kidding...

[conwaygolfer]

I did tree work for 25 years and the saw you have cost about $350.00 They are made for professional tree men but the public can purchase them. But for that price most will not. Stihl was my favorite brand as far as dependability goes.
Not sure who you spoke with about the saw, but I can't see the owner leaving it for that amount of time. And by the way, that saw is as safe as any other in the right hands. And as dangerous as any other in the wrong hands.

I agree that you should call him one more time and explain to him that time is running out if he wants it back. I personally would have picked it up the same day or evening if it was mine.

I agree with Cman that "right is right". If you want to help the guy, just place a plastic bag over it to protect it from rain, etc.. And if he still refuses to pick it up, consider it yours. And used and maintained properly, you will have a saw that outlive you (unless you use it to make a living).
Just my thoughts...........

Conwaygolfer

[cabinetman]

I did tree work for 25 years and the saw you have cost about $350.00 They are made for professional tree men but the public can purchase them. But for that price most will not. Stihl was my favorite brand as far as dependability goes.
Not sure who you spoke with about the saw, but I can't see the owner leaving it for that amount of time. And by the way, that saw is as safe as any other in the right hands. And as dangerous as any other in the wrong hands.

I agree that you should call him one more time and explain to him that time is running out if he wants it back. I personally would have picked it up the same day or evening if it was mine.

I agree with Cman that "right is right". If you want to help the guy, just place a plastic bag over it to protect it from rain, etc.. And if he still refuses to pick it up, consider it yours. And used and maintained properly, you will have a saw that outlive you (unless you use it to make a living).
Just my thoughts...........

Conwaygolfer

+1. That saw is available to the public.

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