Base for Drill Press?

[JR]

I have a tall HF drill press. It's a bit unstable on its base, so I'm looking for ways others have stabilized theirs. While I'm at it, mobility would be good, too.

I'll be going at this project as soon as I get back from the welding shop (see "unstable on its base", above ).

TIA,
JR

[dbhost]

As you may recall, my Drill Press is painted red and tagged Northern Industrial, but it is identical except in label and color to the HF 16 speed floor model drill press.

I used a Harbor Freight mobile base, the one you rip the 1.25" square lumber for, and made a 24x24" square base, then attached 2x6 lumber across the base for 2 reasons, #1. to give me ample, very solid attachment point for the drill press, and #2. To give me after the 1.25" stock, around a 3.25" (actually greater if you consider the wheels / levellers) lift to the overall drill press, meaning I no longer have to stoop to use it.

It's FAR from pretty. I had originally planned to paint it all gloss black, but I have honestly, gotten very lazy with it... It's a bit of a big footprint in the shop, but the added stability is well worth it. There is no worrying if the DP is going to fall over any more...



No, it's not as easy to use as a single front wheel / toe kick like the HTC and Rockler bases, but I honestly feel it is FAR more stable, and that was what I wanted...

[sweensdv]

I did something similar to this with my floor style DP and it's rock solid. I made a base big enough so that there would be approx. 8" of base showing around all four sides of the DP's base once DP was set unto it. I made the base out of 2x4's cut to length then I glued and screwed them together. The glue and screws were applied to the 3½" portion of the 2x4. For mobility, I would suggest you use some double locking casters all the way around but you could probably get away with using just two and a couple of fixed casters if you so desired. Once you have centered the DP on the base take some lag screws and washers and secure the DP to the base. You probably still could tip this setup over but IMO you would really have to try in order to do that.

[chopnhack]

Db, is your top mdf?

[dbhost]

Top of the base? Nope. Construction grade 2x6. So are the spreaders. SYP...

The table is BB ply with hardboard and walnut trim dowelled with oak dowels.

Something I forgot to mention, I used 4" x 1/2" carriage bolts, with fender washers, and lock nuts to bolt the drill press to the base, they are run in from the bottom. I am not crazy about the open spaces, but it is as stout as you could possibly want with just holding a drill press...

I would strongly advise against using MDF in this configuration. It's right by the floor, which is uneven to begin with. My portable AC is right next to it, and it tends to leak if I don't have it level enough.... Combine that with the fact that I do not trust MDF with anything that has to take stress and you can see why I don't use it much...

Yes MDF is cheap, yes MDF is easy to machine, and yeah it's fine for certain interior applications. But with the drawbacks I experience with MDF, well, that and I am too much of a slob, to be blunt, my shop will never look like Rod Kirby's!

[JR]

Some good ideas here. Thanks.

I notice on the base of my DP there is a loop of bar stock coming out the rear with a couple of holes in it. It would seem to be there for the attachment of feet or casters, although it is very low to the ground - <2". Has anyone taken advantage of a feature like this?

JR

[chopnhack]

Cool! Sorry DB, yes table top. The top looked like mdf, but that makes sense (hardboard).

[dbhost]

Yeah, I use a lot of hardboard... I like the surface...

[RodKirby]

Talking of MDF...

Base is 1-1/4" thick - not designed to be moveable but adjustable feet make it nice and level - anyway, I like it

[chopnhack]

I love the color/consistency of Rod's shop furniture. Rod, do you just put a top coat on?

[Chris_B]

For the base, I used two sheets of generic 3/4" plywood with Woodcraft 3" locking casters. Works great for me.



Link or Link

Woodcraft has these on sale once or twice a year. I use them for everything...

[LCHIEN]

Here's the simple Drill press base.

I was able to put this on the base by myself w/o disassembling the DP. I just made a set of stepped blocks, tilted the DP slightly and put the blocks under the front or back until it was raised 4 inches, just enough to put the wheel assemblies underneath and lag-screw into place.

Um, It wobbles a little more than I expected, when given small shoves from the side. Not unstable or anything. I think play in the wheels and swivel bearings is to blame. They don't lock but when in use the drill press is solid as force is applied straight down. I actually have a solution for the wobbling. I made a couple of blocks that are about 1/16th or 1/8" taller than the castors and I slip them under the rear 2x4. This is easy because I chamfered the bottom edges of the 2x4s and also chamfered the tops of the blocks. Its easy to just grab hold of the drill press and kick the blocks under the 2x4s so its quite stable. A loop of rope thru the blocks makes them easy to pull out when i want to move the DP. The second pic shows the blocks under the 2x4 before I installed the 2x4.


Total cost: ~$16 (I had to buy the 2" Swivel casters and lag screws)

[RodKirby]

I love the color/consistency of Rod's shop furniture. Rod, do you just put a top coat on?

Yup. Clear, water-based poly. One coat on non-wearing surfaces (eg drawer fronts, cabinets), and 3 coats + wax on wearing surfaces (eg router table tops). BTW One coat is enough to stop finger print marks.

And I DO look for "paler" colored MDF - in Oz, color can vary widely between manufacturers and retail outlets.

[Cochese]

Talking of MDF...

Base is 1-1/4" thick - not designed to be moveable but adjustable feet make it nice and level - anyway, I like it

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Said it before and I say it again: I could look at a gallery of your shop furniture all day. Just love the colors.

[JR]

I just got in from the shop, where I used the HF moble base on my DP. I used a 2' x 2' piece of 3/4" ply under the DP and withing the confines of the MB, resting on the corner thingys. The ply has a little flex, wihch is a bit disconcerting, but the whole thing is MUCH better than before.

Thanks for the ideas, guys.

JR