chop saw blade, which?

[gychang]

my generic sliding chop saw is getting dull. Plywood is splintering more and more. I use it for my diy speaker cabinet build.

Is there a recommended brand/model for a reasonable cost?

[sweensdv]

Reasonable cost................sharpen the blade you're using now.

[LCHIEN]

generally speaking, the more teeth the better for crosscuts and laminates (including plywood).

Also a quality brand name blade is a good bet.

I find Freud blades (and there are several grades) to be good. they make a number of 60 and 80-tooth crosscut and laminate blades but they'll probably start around $50.

Using masking tape on the bottom side of your workpiece can help reduce splintering.

[gychang]

generally speaking, the more teeth the better for crosscuts and laminates (including plywood).

Also a quality brand name blade is a good bet.

I find Freud blades (and there are several grades) to be good. they make a number of 60 and 80-tooth crosscut and laminate blades but they'll probably start around $50.

Using masking tape on the bottom side of your workpiece can help reduce splintering.

thanks for your input, will try the masking tape also.

[sweensdv]

Consider putting in a bid on this blade.

[pelligrini]

Check this thread for some decent inexpensive blades:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=53832

Hehe, sweensdv, great minds must think alike.

[sweensdv]

......................
Hehe, sweensdv, great minds must think alike.

[LinuxRandal]

General observation.

Listing slider in the title is a good idea. I generally see 60 tooth preferred on a slider and 80 tooth on a regular miter saw. Also negative hook angles for the slider while even a slight positive can be fine on a regular miter saw. As an example, I picked up some bargain priced (damaged freight store), LU85R010 blades (10" 80 tooth 10° positive hook angle) for my miter saw, but it isn't recommended for a slider.
Now material is also another difference. Aluminum and plastic, a negative hook angle blade is generally recommended for a non slider (let alone a slider), so that can be another thing to think about.

[conwaygolfer]

The blades mentioned here that are found on Ebay are great. I had a Dewalt 80 tooth blade on my slider. The plywood was starting to splinter also. I installed the German blade and it cut smooth as butter with no tear out or splintering at all. It also was an 80 tooth blade.
And the cost is perfect also.

Conwaygolfer

[dbhost]

What size slider do you have? Mine's a 12", and I use the Freud Diablo D1280X 80T crosscutting blade that I am very happy with...

[Knottscott]

Consider putting in a bid on this blade.

That's a very good choice at a great price IMO. For ply and other sheetgoods, their 80T Hi-ATB is another excellent choice, also at a great price. Anything else that's comparable to these two will run closer to $60-$100 (ie: Infinity 010-060, 010-080, Freud LU91, LU79, LU80, Forrest WWI, Duraline, CMT 210.080.10, CMT ITK Plus P10080, etc).

[gychang]

What size slider do you have? Mine's a 12", and I use the Freud Diablo D1280X 80T crosscutting blade that I am very happy with...

mine is 10".

[Holbren]

You've received some good choices but I'll throw in my two cents.

First, those Onsrud blades with free shipping seem like a deal for sure.

The best plywood blade is always the 80T HiATB and with a negative hook, they fit well on sliders too. They are usually pricey though and dull fast. They are a thicker kerf too than you usually find on a miter blade but that should be OK if your saw can swing it.

The basic ATB like the Onsrud linked to is the typical miter saw blade, 60T for 10". Nothing wrong with that and as others said, get them resharpened. You can probably buy three of them for one HiATB and it saves on shipping if you have to send them out for sharpening. Some of the sharpening shops will pay return freight so shop around.

The blade I would probably recommended trying (but again probably pricey) is an aluminum cutting blade as mentioned. They are typically 60 or 80T and have a negative hook that you need. What makes them different is they have a TCG tooth configuration which will last the longest being plywood and the glue/sand and other garbage they put in there dulls blades fast. Cut quality might not be up to par with the ATB blades but should be OK and the blue tape really helps.