Should a mini-impact driver come down my chimney

[tjr]

in Santa's bag? If so, which one?

I like the idea of an impact driver. Since I'm more or less replacing a couple of old stick-style cordless screwdrivers I want to stay light in weight and at most coat-pocket size. That rules out the 18V models, I think.

One question would be can these little impact drivers do relatively delicate work like assembling toys and furniture?

Looks like the ones to think about in my price range are the Milwaukee 2450-22 12 volt @$99, Craftsman Nextec right angle @$99, reconditioned Hitachi 2-tool kit @$85, or Makita 2 tool combo @$139 and of course any others y'all may suggest. I also considered the Makita stick-style impact driver, but it doesn't have variable speed so might be a bit tough to use.

The Hitachi kit seems like the best deal but the tools look a bit less compact in size and shape. And any issues with reconditioned cordless?

I do have an old Ryobi 12V cordless drill that just keeps on pounding, so I don't really need another drill. It's hardly a compact tool, tho. Plus an 18V oneplus 1/2". Plus a 12V hammerdrill. Yeah, I've got plenty of drills.

Appreciate your advice.

[Whaler]

I have had the Bosch PS40-2 for about 2 years and it is amazing. It's a little more $$ than the ones you listed but it is a winner.

[LCHIEN]

i don't think you want to use an impact driver for delicate assembly work. Take note:

Impact *Not-equal* delicate...

They are great for driving screws into hard wood, loosening very tight bolts and nuts etc.

[unknown poster]

I like my Bosch PS40, it's well made and strong for it's size, but my 18v Ridgid impact gets more use. I bought the PS40 first and it showed me how much I liked an impact mechanism for driving screws. My old PC drill died so I bought the Ridgid kit with a drill and an impactor. The Ridgid is bigger and heavier, but it is also faster.

My favorite thing about a variable speed impact driver is that you can set screws precisely. An impactor makes lots of torque at low speed, so you can drive a screw another 1/4 turn easily with a gentle squeeze of the trigger. This is a huge contrast to a drill/driver that requires speed to drive screws and will cam out of a phillips head at low speed. Of course you also have to be careful because this torque will drive a deck screw right through a 2x4, both of my impactors will continue to drive the screw until either the bit can't reach anymore or I let go of the trigger.

[bthorne]

A friend of mine bought that Makita two tool set while I was assisting him in remodeling his basement. I really enjoyed using it - it's extremely lightweight compared to my Ryobi One+ impact driver, and had enough power to drive screws straight through 2x4's.

If I could convince Santa that I needed an extra impact driver, that's the one I'd be requesting.

[cwsmith]

I have the older 14.4 Volt Ridgid Impact driver, which was part of a "combo" kit that I purchased several years ago.

At the time, I thought that it would be a great assembly tool and absolutely the thing for use in the wood shop, for assembly.

The darn thing is just TOO powerful!!!

The first time I used it was to assemble a steel shelving unit for the garage. The hardware was slotted-head bolts with hex nuts. I bolted one of the braces into the wrong hole, using the impact drive. Man, it worked great... so great that I couldn't take the bolt back out to align it with the proper hole. With the slotted head, I simply couldn't hold it secure enough to remove. I ended up cutting the bolt with my Dremel.

Second project was replacing a weathered deck rail. I grabbed a mag holder from the tool box and popped it in my impact tool. Not the right thing, as the impact simply tore the holder apart. Lesson learned, this tool has great torque, actually too much for my normal use and certainly more than I can imagine ever needing for woodworking.

Actually, my favorite powered assembly tool is my old Rigid 9.4-Volt pivot driver.
I hope this helps,

CWS

[Joe DeFazio]

Should a mini-impact driver come down my chimney

Yes!!!

Of course a mini-impact driver should come down your chimney!!!



Joe

[Chris_B]

I have a Bosch PS40 & a Makita 14V NiMH impact driver. The Bosch gets used far more often in the shop. The Makita sees more use in the yard with big screws & bolts. I can't imagine the torque that an 18V driver would produce!

Since I spend far more time in the shop than the yard, the small Bosch sees much more action. It also is much easier to handle from a ladder or on the roof. I've tried a friend's Makita equivalent to the Bosch PS40, and it is very nice. I'm sure there are other good models too. If there are more tools in your future that share the same batteries & charger, that will cut down on clutter in your shop - and improve the chances that you have a battery ready-to-go.

If you get a paired set (impact + 'regular' driver) be *sure* to get one with a good chuck on the regular driver. My Bosch set included the PS20, which IMO is just about useless. I tried adding a chuck to the 1/4" collet, but the run-out is terrible and the tool is completely unbalanced. You can buy drill bits for the 1/4" drive, but they also have terrible run-out (and are an extra expense).

BTW, one thing to note about all impact drivers is that they are very LOUD. You definitely will want to wear ear protection for anything other than short use.

[capncarl]

The impact driver is possibly the most used tool in my shop. I have accumulated all the quick release drill bits, spade bits, countersinks and screwdriver bits I can find for it. It is my shopsmith driver. Last year about this time someone on this site posted a bargain alert for the 14v Hitachi, refirbished w/2 batteries and changer for about $35/free shipping. bought it to replace my Dewalt that was worn out. It is a great tool for the $$$. And... it was delivered to my door in less than 24 hours, how did they do that?

capncarl

[LCHIEN]

... And... it was delivered to my door in less than 24 hours, how did they do that?

capncarl

Must have been afraid you'd change your mind...

[radhak]

i don't think you want to use an impact driver for delicate assembly work. Take note:

Impact *Not-equal* delicate...

They are great for driving screws into hard wood, loosening very tight bolts and nuts etc.

I have the older 14.4 Volt Ridgid Impact driver,
...
The darn thing is just TOO powerful!!!
...
I hope this helps,

CWS

I have a Bosch PS40 & a Makita 14V NiMH impact driver. The Bosch gets used far more often in the shop. The Makita sees more use in the yard with big screws & bolts. I can't imagine the torque that an 18V driver would produce!
...
BTW, one thing to note about all impact drivers is that they are very LOUD. You definitely will want to wear ear protection for anything other than short use.

This is the sort of information I look forward to and don't get anywhere else, for all my googling! I always wondered which would have enough torque for me and if they are noisey.

Now I guess for my purposes I could even go for the sub-10 volt one that I have seen sometimes.

Thanks, gentlemen - you are a great help!

[BigguyZ]

If you get a paired set (impact + 'regular' driver) be *sure* to get one with a good chuck on the regular driver. My Bosch set included the PS20, which IMO is just about useless. I tried adding a chuck to the 1/4" collet, but the run-out is terrible and the tool is completely unbalanced. You can buy drill bits for the 1/4" drive, but they also have terrible run-out (and are an extra expense).

I have the PS20 and PS40. I don't have a problem with the quick change collet. Thing is, the drivers aren't meant to be regularly used as drills. There's a difference. So get a set with some standard drill bit sizes and driver bits, and you're set. No full-fledged cuck needed, IMHO.

I view the 12/14V tools as a compliment to a larger, full-sized 18V set. I have the Ryobi NiCad 18V drill and inpact driver, and for heavy-duty stuff that's absolutely what I use.

[leehljp]

I have two Ryobi 18V impact drivers (one in US and one on the way back - from Japan). Those two are fairly powerful. I also have a Hitachi 10V right angle driver ( click here ) that I am taking back to the States with me. I left this one behind to do light work in disassembly and fixing things before we move.

To me, there is a huge difference in the 18V and the 10V. There have been several items that the 10V would not budge in which the 18V would not flinch on. However, I know the limitations, advantages and drawbacks and go with the right tool.

The Hitachi 10.8V draws things up very snug and tight where as the 18V Ryobi will strip the screws or drive the screws all the way through softer woods. The 10V is not good for driving through 2X4s to another 2x4 where as the 18V will do it without hesitation. The 10V is a great around the house ID and I use my Hitachi 10.8V more than the 18V simply because there are more household jobs suited for it. BUT when working in assembly and construction like situations, out comes the 18V and it is a work horse.

There is one thing that people - who have not used an impact driver but have used clutch settings on drill drivers (DD) - should be aware of: The DD clutch can be set to slip before it strips the thread. I use this feature all the time. And a Clutch on a DD can be set to seat a screw fairly perfectly. An Impact driver is a different story. The seating is totally on the user to gauge when enough is enough. It is easy to strip with an ID. Once a little experience is under the belt, adjustments are fairly easy but it is still possible to strip threads if one doesn't watch closely.

Another aspect of IDs is that they do not transfer the torq back to the hands as DDs do. IF doing something like decking or adding a wall and you use lots of screws instead of nails - the torq from a 14V PC or 18V Ryobi DD can wear the hands and forearms out - over the course of several hours, but the only wear from an ID is from the weight of the driver itself, which is still somewhat lighter (generally) than the same voltage DD.

[LCHIEN]

...
Another aspect of IDs is that they do not transfer the torq back to the hands as DDs do. IF doing something like decking or adding a wall and you use lots of screws instead of nails - the torq from a 14V PC or 18V Ryobi DD can wear the hands and forearms out - over the course of several hours, but the only wear from an ID is from the weight of the driver itself, which is still somewhat lighter (generally) than the same voltage DD.

That's a very important point. The drill driver you have to counter every inch pouind of torque when you hold it, but the Impact tool the inertial weight of the tool and its tiny but multiple impacts absorbs the torque. Very important when driving 3-inch long 1/4 or 3/8 inch lag screws into 2 x 4's

[Chris_B]

I have the PS20 and PS40. I don't have a problem with the quick change collet. Thing is, the drivers aren't meant to be regularly used as drills. There's a difference. So get a set with some standard drill bit sizes and driver bits, and you're set. No full-fledged cuck needed, IMHO.

I view the 12/14V tools as a compliment to a larger, full-sized 18V set. I have the Ryobi NiCad 18V drill and inpact driver, and for heavy-duty stuff that's absolutely what I use.

Obviously this is a personal preference, but my experience was different. I completely agree that a small DD complements a larger driver. But I bought a set of 1/4" QR chuck drill bits for the PS20 and just didn't like using them. To me there was too much slop even for pilot holes.

Instead I bought a Hitachi 10.8V DD (with a chuck), and that is my go-to tool for almost everything involving drilling. Even with very large bits (except spades) I use the little Hitachi for pilot holes. I usually leave it hanging on my bench with a small bit already chucked, just for that purpose.