Help choosing a new drill press

[Bruce Cohen]

Well,

The 12" Ryobi bench top DP I have has finally gone to the shop in the sky.

As I do use a DP at times, I can't see myself going without one. I've been looking at the Rigid 15" floor model selling at HD for $299.00. I've seen some good reviews on this DP. But I wonder if anyone out there has any experience with it.

The thing I most disliked about the Ryobi was the god awful amount of run out, but considering how cheap it was $99.00 I think, so I really didn't get too pissed about it.

Now that just about all I make are jewelry boxes, I need a bit more accuracy and I read that the Rigid is pretty tight.

Before I add another tool to my charge card and further piss off the wife, I'd appreciate hearing your experiences with the press.

Thanks in advance,

Bruce

[dbhost]

Since the Ryobi 12" was / is actually a fairly well thought of DP for a bench top model I am curious with why, if you bought it new of course, you didn't address the runout issue with Ryobi. Runout of the chuck / bit is not normal, and is kind of contrary to why we buy drill presses in the first place. Ryobi should have handled that for you...

Also, how did it die?

I am mostly curious because if you liked it well enough, why not fix the problems of the one you have, unless of course it costs more than it is worth to you...

[sweensdv]

If you have a store close to you check out some of the Harbor Freight units. Some of their drill presses are gem worthy. For what that Ridgid will set you back you could get one at HF with more features and more power. I'm not putting the Ridgid unit down as it gets pretty positive reviews from those who own one.

[cabinetman]

My advice would be to compare specs. Go do a "hands on". Keep in mind the availability of parts and service. Some import items, like HF, can be a PITA.
.

[Chris_B]

I've been looking at the Rigid 15" floor model selling at HD for $299.00. I've seen some good reviews on this DP. But I wonder if anyone out there has any experience with it.

I had a small Ryobi 10" benchtop that I upgraded to the Ridgid 15" floor model several months ago. The BORG was even willing to match a HF 20% coupon.

I don't remember the exact run-out when I measured my shiny new Ridgid, but it was certainly accurate enough for woodworking. I like the power, the belts are easy to change, power delivery is very smooth, and the table is very easy to clamp onto with a larger work surface. There is no comparison with my old benchtop unit, and I now use the drill press frequently (instead of only when I had to). The belt housing hinges conveniently at the rear, and while dual belts are obviously more hassle than the single belt on the small Ryobi, the benefits far outweigh the minor inconvenience.

The one obvious feature that the Ridgid lacks is a laser guide. Others may place more value on the laser guides, but I think they are mostly a gimmick.

My issues are pretty minor:

1. The table clamp handle at the rear is pretty short (~3"?). Every time I use it I remind myself to add an extension. Obviously I have a memory problem since I haven't fixed it in months...
2. The chuck holder is a PITA (very difficult to insert or remove the chuck). I solved this with a rare-earth magnet.
3. The table-height rack binds when swiveling the table. I don't know if this is better on competitive units, but it is a PITA on the rare occasions that I need to swivel the table.
4. The built-in light is wired into the main power circuit, so I can't use the light with my auto-on switch for the dust collector (it triggers the DC). The solution for this was mounting a much better external lamp. Check-out the Moffatt lamps if you can afford them.
5. I'm not a big fan of Ridgid orange

FWIW, I built a substantially-bigger-than-stock base from a double-layer of 3/4" plywood & the Woodcraft 3" casters. Drill presses are top-heavy, but this arrangement enables me to move the Ridgid without fear.

[LCHIEN]

Chris:

for the lamp triggering the DC/Vac switch, try a lower wattage bulb. I have a Sears autoswitch and it does not trigger with either the DP lamp or the BS lamp, although if i turn on both then it will start. Later I'll check what wattage bulbs I have, probably 40 or 60 watt.

If the elevation rack binds when rotating the table about the column, Check the retainers at the top and bottom, Probably you can raise the one at the top a small fraction of an inch and relieve the binding. On my Hitachi, the retaining ring and rack are bevelled to retain the rack so that there can be some slop when the retainer is raised and still do its job...

[Chris_B]

for the lamp triggering the DC/Vac switch, try a lower wattage bulb.

If the elevation rack binds when rotating the table about the column, Check the retainers at the top and bottom, Probably you can raise the one at the top a small fraction of an inch and relieve the binding. On my Hitachi, the retaining ring and rack are bevelled to retain the rack so that there can be some slop when the retainer is raised and still do its job...

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately...

1) I use CFLs in the shop, so the draw is only about 7W, but it still triggers the iVac switch. Not always, but often enough to be annoying.

2) The rack is beveled top and bottom where it intersects the retaining rings. I've tried adjusting the top retaining ring (several times), sanded the edges smooth, even added some lube - but no joy. I suspect that the binding is actually between the rack and the column. I apparently don't have the secret recipe, but perhaps I should try sacrificing a chicken.

[SARGE..g-47]

I have had the Ridgid since several months after it originally came out Bruce. Easy to clamp a larger table on existing s it is rectangular... very decent run-out.. decent quill travel.. extremely easy belt speed change.. plenty enough power as a drill press is a finesse machine and requires little really. Just how much Hoss-power do you need to start a sharp drill bit point and then drill a hole.. not much.

I personally wouldn't use any drill press regardless of price with a mortice attachment as the levers are too short for leverage and you put a lot of torque on the travel mechanizm plunging with a hollow mortice chisel.. so a non factor for me there. Frankly.. for the money I would have picked up another one if I could have found one local. The only reason I would up-grade is to get a 6" quill travel which few would need in reality but.. I do on occassion drilling dog holes in work-bench tops I sometime make to sell. As far as laser... I have gotten by nicely for 39 years without one and I see no immediate need! :>)

Hope that helps...

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey guys,

Thank's for your thoughts, being blessed with 2 Home Depots and 2 Loews within 10 miles of my house, went into Lowe's and for $5.00 more got a Porter 15" DP. The Porter has a one HP motor (although it draws the same 8 amps as the Rigid.

The DP is a bit heaver and the warranty is the same. Plus, they had one in stock, vs Home Depot's having to order one and it alspo has what appears to be a nifty laser system.

Hopefully I did the right thing.

Will let you know as soon as I assemble it and get to use it.

And dhost, it died due to a warn-out motor, which cost about as much as I paid for it, and I've had it for quite a few years.

Bruce

BTW, I really did wnat a stand-up DP anywas, so this was a reasonable excust to add to my "never ending" too debt. Can't wait for my BT3100 to pass away

Bruce