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I use a hand kit similar to this. I'm thinking it's easier to buy a new chain than to sharpen. Is there a better (faster or more accurate) way than this kit. I've seen the powered units. Any suggestions?
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I used to "sharpen" my own blades, but after a few times, I realized that I was doing more harm than good.
I have mine sharpened for me, anymore. It's only a few bucks, and it's done right. If I'm in the field and it's dull, then I'll hack away at the blade with the file, but I know it's heading to the shop soon.
As often as I use my saw anymore, the day downtime doesn't hurt me.
I love my saw, and I like to know that it's tuned correctly. It's my extention, if you know what I mean. -
I am not an expert on chain saw sharpness but I have used the Harbor Freight unit that sells for as little as $30 and ended up with blades that do a good job of cutting. After spending a little learning how to use it, I can sharpen a 16" blade in a short time (maybe 10 minutes).Comment
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Cabinetman,
I use the arrangement you illustrate and I am very happy with it. I usually just sit down and sharpen the chain rather than change it out since it takes me a similar amount of time. I loaned my saw to a friend of my son's and he had the chain "professionally" sharpened prior to returning it. While that was polite, my sharpened chain will cut better and longer than the "professional" job Kelly paid for. I find that if I sharpen as soon as it fails to throw shavings - starts to look more like dust - it takes only a few strokes per cutter and not a lot of time. My saw only has a 14 inch bar, however, so that is part of the reason it does not take real long.
My other clue that the chain needs sharpened is when I do not need to lift up on the saw to keep it from bogging down. If I find myself feeling like I need to push down or rock the saw around, it is time to stop and give the chain a few strokes with the file.
JimComment
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I've used the kit shown, a Dremel adapter, and even bought this at Harbor Freight when they had a 19.99 coupon.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93213
I have 3 chains each for both of my saws and have them done professionally and swap them out. Between the Dremel, the HF grinder and the hand file, the hand file is the best option in my opinion.Chr's
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An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
A moral man does it.Comment
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I tried the Dremel, and threw it away after one use. The stones don't last, and it's only as accurate as the steadiness of your hand. I now use the HF sharpener. Only thing to be careful of is to set it up carefully so that you don't take too much off during the sharpening operation. This thing has paid for itself many times over.Comment
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My local hardware store charges me about $7 to sharpen my chain, and they will usually do it while I wait. I have thought about buying the HF unit too, but I only use my chainsaw about once a year if that.
I have noticed that after having my chain sharpened it cuts very well at first but dulls very quickly. Is it just because it is a cheap stock (Homelite) chain? I belive that upgrading to an aftermarket chain would help, but I never remember when I'm out shopping. Sorry to hijack the thread.Comment
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I don't use mine that much anymore either, but I use basic version of the "deluxe" version in link from the OP. I usually pull it out when the cut starts to "curve". So I know the problem I'm looking for as far as remedial sharpening goes. I usually just sharpen the teeth on the indicated side first, then the other, if necessary, the otherComment
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The first time I needed a sharpening I had a shop do it. Like you, it didn't seem to last too long. I think the angle used might have been to great, creating too thin of an edge. The second time I used the guide I noticed the suggested angle was less than the one the shop provided. I think it turned out sharper, and lasted longer.
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[QUOTE= I'm thinking it's easier to buy a new chain than to sharpen.
Buying is definitely easier but changing every time you need to is way more labor intensive than a few strokes with the file. I don't remember what brand sharpener I had but it took a while to get the procedure down. It came with a guide but eventually I could do a good, fast job with just the file. It only takes 2-3 strokes per tooth. It helps if you have a way to hold the saw in position while you sharpen. Also a good after market blade may reduce the number of sharpenings needed. If you are in a wooded area the time required for resharpening is also therapeutic, a few moments of rest and relative silence, an opportunity to commune with nature.
ChasComment
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Ahh, Salma Hayek...
One of the finest exports Mexico has ever offered the world.Comment
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Ah yes, the rotation of orbs in space is a fine reflective pastime.
Sharpening a chain like most things takes some skill and experience, something I never fully acquired. You don't really need to either. You just need enough skill to put the edge back on while you are using the saw. Then you take it in and have someone who knows what they are doing sharpen it properly. You do have to watch that they do it right and not in a way that insures a quick return for another sharpening.
The hand file with the guide is perhaps the best. It's really hard to totally destroy the chain with it. The power grinders like the HF one on the other hand can turn the chain into a prop for a slasher movie faster than you can drink the beer you are having while working the tool.
If you do go the route of the HF tool you should practice on the neighbors chain saws prior to tackling your own. This should help to keep Saturday Mornings peaceful while the neighbor is down at the power equipment shop getting his saw fixed.
Bill
BTW, most problems cutting with a chainsaw start with not enough oil on the bar. Auto oilers need an extra pump when the going gets tough.Comment
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