Removing A Spring Pin

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  • crokett
    The Full Monte
    • Jan 2003
    • 10627
    • Mebane, NC, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000

    Removing A Spring Pin

    The worm gear on the height adjustment for my PM66 is held in by what the parts reference calls a 'spring pin'.

    For reference, the manual is here:


    Parts diagram is on pg 26 and the pin is part #15, on the right, just above the motor. It appears I should be able to drive it out? I want to take off the worm gear to get the shaft out because it will be much easier to clean the dust out of the trunnion assembly.
    David

    The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    u should be able to drive it out with a small pin punch. Its a flat piece rolled up like a pin and the rolling gives it spring retention force. Outside it should be just a big larger in dia. than the hole, you can drive it back in with a small hammer, hoepfully the hole is chamfered enough to get it started.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • crokett
      The Full Monte
      • Jan 2003
      • 10627
      • Mebane, NC, USA.
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #3
      Thanks Loring. I was looking at the diagram again and realized I call it a split pin. Now to see if I have the right size punch.
      David

      The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

      Comment

      • woodturner
        Veteran Member
        • Jun 2008
        • 2047
        • Western Pennsylvania
        • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

        #4
        Originally posted by crokett
        Thanks Loring. I was looking at the diagram again and realized I call it a split pin. Now to see if I have the right size punch.
        Also known as a "roll pin".

        As Loring said, use a pin punch. A pin punch has a flat end - a pointed end punch such as a center punch will tend to spread the roll pin, making it harder to remove. Choose a punch that is slightly smaller than the hole - too small and it will tend to spread the pin, too large and it may damage the hole.

        Replacement rather than reuse is recommended for roll pins. Should be available at any hardware store for a few cents. The pins are chamfered on the ends so they will compress as they are tapped into the hole - the hold is normally just a drilled hole, with little if any chamfer.
        Last edited by woodturner; 02-15-2010, 02:18 PM.
        --------------------------------------------------
        Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

        Comment

        • JimD
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2003
          • 4187
          • Lexington, SC.

          #5
          I use a nail, cut or filed square on the end, usually to remove these. If you put a nail set in one end and give it a couple taps, you can expand it back out for reuse. (Both are crude but effective in my experience)

          Jim

          Comment

          • Black wallnut
            cycling to health
            • Jan 2003
            • 4715
            • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
            • BT3k 1999

            #6
            Or if you really want to use the correct tool for the job use a roll pin punch. Wow I did not remeber spending that for my set......
            Donate to my Tour de Cure


            marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

            Head servant of the forum

            ©

            Comment

            • phi1l
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 681
              • Madison, WI

              #7
              Originally posted by Black wallnut
              Or if you really want to use the correct tool for the job use a roll pin punch. Wow I did not remeber spending that for my set......
              You can get them from HF for less than 1/10th that price

              Comment

              • Black wallnut
                cycling to health
                • Jan 2003
                • 4715
                • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
                • BT3k 1999

                #8
                Originally posted by phi1l
                You can get them from HF for less than 1/10th that price
                That is probably also true however back when i purchased my set I was using them quite often. My pin punches and roll pin punches out lasted by a long way cheap sets the boss bought from Northern Tool. Not saying that HF would be the same but there are times with some tools that you do get what you pay for. For the one use that David is doing I'd buy a cheap tool or borrow a good one from a good friend.
                Donate to my Tour de Cure


                marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

                Head servant of the forum

                ©

                Comment

                • Uncle Cracker
                  The Full Monte
                  • May 2007
                  • 7091
                  • Sunshine State
                  • BT3000

                  #9
                  There are cheap punch tools, and there are good ones. If it's one piece, it's probably not as good as those that have one very hard tool steel rod set into a second larger diameter rod. That two-piece design is usually very hard to bend, and bending is what usually spells the difference. I used to do a lot of repairs on equipment that contained roll pins, and once I found an extremely hard set of punches, I never had any problems.

                  Comment

                  • Rich P
                    Established Member
                    • Apr 2003
                    • 390
                    • Foresthill, CA, USA.
                    • Powermatic 66 (1966 vintage)

                    #10
                    David,

                    If you are simply removing the gear for cleaning, I'd be looking for another approach.

                    Late last summer I picked up a 66 badly in need of a refurb and pulled it completely apart for cleaning and repainting. I don't recall exactly how it came apart but IIRC the "raising shaft" [47] came out easily enough by simply removing the shaft collar [17] and then rotating the shaft until it disengaged from the gear segment [20].

                    Of course when I did that the entire trunnion assembly had been removed from the saw.

                    I think you could have reasonable access to remove the collar either through the dust door or the tilt opening (after removing the handwheel).

                    My concern would be that the pin is probably not intended to be repeatedly removed and replaced. It would also seem to me that removing the shaft would actually be easier than driving out the pin.

                    I have a photo of the cleaned up trunnion assembly prior to reinstalling it in the stand. Not sure if it would be of much help but if you want it PM me.

                    Rich

                    p.s. To all, after I got the PM66 online, I sold my BT3100 to a nice guy who lives up in SF. It will be a great tool for him in his situation.
                    Last edited by Rich P; 02-15-2010, 07:25 PM.
                    Don't ever ask a barber if you need a haircut.

                    Comment

                    • crokett
                      The Full Monte
                      • Jan 2003
                      • 10627
                      • Mebane, NC, USA.
                      • Ryobi BT3000

                      #11
                      Rich, the saw is pretty much broken down. At this point the motor is off, pulley is off the motor, trunnion assembly is out and the tilt shaft+gear is out. The cabinet is empty. I want to pull the height worm gear+shaft to get access inside the trunnion assembly, it is very dusty in there. I don't plan to break the trunnion assembly down any further. What rust there is is surface rust, easily removed with a wire brush. I am not that worried about it and don't plan to repaint anything.

                      I tried pulling the collar off the tilt shaft to get it out. That did not go very well so I ended up unbolting the entire bracket. I will clean the gear as best I can with it in the bracket. I haven't tried but anticipate similar problems with the height adjustment collar. So I thought I'd drive the pin out to get it out.
                      David

                      The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

                      Comment

                      • Rich P
                        Established Member
                        • Apr 2003
                        • 390
                        • Foresthill, CA, USA.
                        • Powermatic 66 (1966 vintage)

                        #12
                        David,

                        You should be able to get the collars off by backing off the set screws. My saw was almost a basket case but that part of the dis-assembly was easy. I was not going to go to the next step but the guys at owwm.org convinced me to to all the way. I basically totally took apart the trunnion and arbor (but not the arbor bearings), cleaned up everything, painted and put it all back together. Attached are before and after shots of the assembly. Once you've got it out of the cabinet, the rest is easy. Take lots of shots before taking things apart and then do a close inspection of the exploded drawings from the PM manual. If you get stuck there are lots of guys at owwn to help. You do NOT need to take the worm gear off the shaft.

                        Rich
                        Attached Files
                        Don't ever ask a barber if you need a haircut.

                        Comment

                        • crokett
                          The Full Monte
                          • Jan 2003
                          • 10627
                          • Mebane, NC, USA.
                          • Ryobi BT3000

                          #13
                          That looks really really nice. I don't think I am going to paint mine. I am after a user saw. I don't necessarily need it to be a museum-quality piece. I will try to take the collar off but the one on the tilt shaft surely did not want to come off.
                          David

                          The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

                          Comment

                          • Rich P
                            Established Member
                            • Apr 2003
                            • 390
                            • Foresthill, CA, USA.
                            • Powermatic 66 (1966 vintage)

                            #14
                            Mine had so much rust and dirt that once I got it stripped it was no big deal to mask things off and spray with a rattle can of Rustoleum Hammered. I figure it will be easier to keep clean in the future. My PM66 is not a museum piece...it is my only table saw (I sold my BT3100). Since it was built in 86 I figure my refurb should be good for another 25 years or so, at least I hope so.
                            Don't ever ask a barber if you need a haircut.

                            Comment

                            • crokett
                              The Full Monte
                              • Jan 2003
                              • 10627
                              • Mebane, NC, USA.
                              • Ryobi BT3000

                              #15
                              Rich,

                              One more question, when you did your refurb, did you take the trunnion assembly completely apart? I was looking at it and the parts diagram and it appears what is holding the two halves together is part 40, the pivot shaft and the nut on it. Also, did you repaint the outside of the cabinet to match the parts inside? My problem right now is weather - it is too cold to paint outside. I could bring all the parts inside, except for the cabinet. Of course I could also just clean everything up and then wait a few weeks. I've got other things I could do out there.
                              David

                              The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

                              Comment

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