Advice on table saw choice

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  • 3thumbs
    replied
    Originally posted by Sawatzky
    The BT3100 has been discontinued for a number of years, so if memebers joined the forum after that they probably would not have seen one. Since the discontinuation of the saw, there have not been a lot of people asking questions about it. But, this forum's name is directlyy related to the BT series saws.
    I understand that this forum is related to that saw. I am just saying that I have never seen one for sale, nor have I ever seen one in a shop. None of my wood working friends has owned one either. Good or bad, just not common in my experience.
    DM

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  • Sawatzky
    replied
    The BT3100 has been discontinued for a number of years, so if memebers joined the forum after that they probably would not have seen one. Since the discontinuation of the saw, there have not been a lot of people asking questions about it. But, this forum's name is directlyy related to the BT series saws.

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  • 3thumbs
    replied
    I have been a member here for a couple of years. I had never heard of a BT3100 before I joined, and still to this day, I have never even seen one.
    DM

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by JimD
    Charlie,

    The type of design you came up with is built into the BT3100. If you can get to the old posts part of this forum, you can find my BT3100 on it's portable base.

    Your comments on accuracy suggest either you have not used a BT3100 or you used one that was not adjusted correctly. The rip fence of the BT3100 locks at both the front and the back and will hold it's adjustments very well. I still lack the depth in front of the blade of a hybrid or cabinet saw but that is usually not an issue. I prefer to crosscut on my CMS or radial arm saw but those that like the sliding miter table get good accuracy from it too.

    One of the features of the BT3100 that contribute to its accuracy is a micro adjuster for the rip fence. Using the micro adjuster it is very easy to move the rip fence a precise 1/64 inch or less. Even most cabinet saws and certainly your contractors saw did not come with this feature. It was an accessory for the Ryobi too but it works very well. Jim
    Hello Jim, if you could find the post on your saw that would be great. I'd like to see it. As far as a fence that locks front and back, if you remember, many, many years ago Delta had what I think they called a Jetlock fence, it locked front and back, and it had a micro adjuster, it became pretty much obsolete after the Biesemeyer, Unifence, etc. came out. Nearly all of the higher end fences lock only on the front rail. The depth in front of the blade is important, you get more material to contact the fence before it hits the blade, think of it like a jointer. I think it's safer also. I'll agree with you on the crosscuts, the compound miter saw is where I go, and once again I feel is safer. And your right, I've never used a Bt table saw, just common sense tells me that the saw is mediocure. I've never been a huge fan of Ryobi, although I do have a few of their tools, Remember the Quik-Stand ? why they still don't make that is way beyond me. I also have a Ryobi 12" planer thats been ok, I have a Ryobi variable speed mini lathe that I maybe used once, seemed ok. Then one year I got a Ryobi detail sander, used it once and sold it, I wasn't impressed at all. I did some reading on the net about the BT's lastnight. The reviews were all good, but they also rated the saw as a very good entry level benchtop table saw. And I'll agree with that, but there are also other choices. Used American iron isn't a bad way to go either if you know what to look for.
    Last edited by Charlie; 12-16-2009, 02:06 PM.

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  • master53yoda
    replied
    Originally posted by Charlie
    Oh comeon, first the BT is as accurate as industrial cabinet table saws, and now they are the original Hybrids ? I'm sure if I hang around here long enough someone will tell me that a Harbor Frieght wood lathe is as good, if not better then an Oliver wood lathe.
    one thing that really upsets me both in my professional life and otherwise is someone making smart remarks that doesn't or hasn't even looked at what is the topic.

    the hybried saws have hard mounted motors t0 the arbor assemblies with fixed belts. that is exactly what the BT uses. The only advantages to the new hybrids is that they are using induction motors rather then the universal motor of the bt 3x00. The bt3x00 saws if anything have a beefier arbor assembly then most others. The other hybrid saws have large boxes around them and weigh more. but, as has been brought up before if the Br3x00 saw is built into a base that issue is completely removed.

    The ultimate failure of the BT3x00 saws has been the motors. As an electrical person I change my brushes at least every 18 months and check them every 6 months. I doubt that the motor will ever burn out as long as the brushes are maintained. This goes for any brush type tool.

    for a hobbyist which I am, I would not go away from the bt3xoo unless it was to a larger shop and then possibly to a full blown cabinet saw. But then i would only be gaining faster cutting on thick woods which i don't do much off.

    I would put the BT3Xoo saws against any of the comparable sized saws and it would walk away.

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  • JimD
    replied
    Charlie,

    I like your dust control modification of your Delta contractors saw. The type of design you came up with is built into the BT3100. If you can get to the old posts part of this forum, you can find my BT3100 on it's portable base. I have an articulated plate on the back of my BT3100 that works with the dust shroud around the blade the BT3100 came with. When I tilt the blade, the articulated cover moves with it. I did not come up with the design, Jim Frye, who posted here long before I did, came up with it. My base is for my BT3100 with extension rails that give me over 60 inches rip capacity. I have drawers in the base for extra blades and tools. The saw with the drawers full as they usually are weighs several hundred pounds.

    Your comments on accuracy suggest either you have not used a BT3100 or you used one that was not adjusted correctly. The rip fence of the BT3100 locks at both the front and the back and will hold it's adjustments very well. The table surface of a stock BT3100 is very limited which can be an issue but if you build a custom base with extension table, as I have, you can end up with a wider base than even a cabinet saw with a 50 inch fence. I still lack the depth in front of the blade of a hybrid or cabinet saw but that is usually not an issue. I prefer to crosscut on my CMS or radial arm saw but those that like the sliding miter table get good accuracy from it too.

    One of the features of the BT3100 that contribute to its accuracy is a micro adjuster for the rip fence. Using the micro adjuster it is very easy to move the rip fence a precise 1/64 inch or less. Even most cabinet saws and certainly your contractors saw did not come with this feature. It was an accessory for the Ryobi too but it works very well.

    Your posts are good but you need to at least use a well adjusted BT3100 before you criticize it for accuracy. Those of us who have used both know the BT3100 gives up nothing to more expensive saws in the accuracy department. Those that think otherwise are simply not fully informed. Fine Homebuilding had a professional carpenter review the Ryobi when it was the original BT3000 with a 12A motor and over $1000 price tag. He sold his other portable saw to buy one. You can easily find things to criticize about the BT3000/3100 but accuracy is simply not a valid criticism.

    Jim

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  • Sawatzky
    replied
    My BT was just as accurate as my Ridgid saw is. To me accuracy means setting the fence to a measurement, and getting that measurement when you cut. The BT never missed in that area. The difference is really just the mass and heavy duty features of larger saws. The BT can't outdue a contractor or hybrid saw in the areas of mass, longevity, and power. But if a fence; be it a Bies, Rigdid, Unifence or the BT fence is square to the blade, they will all be accurate. So the question in not if the BT is more or less accuarate than larger saws. All saws can be accurate. Some like me, just like the mass and iron.

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  • Knottscott
    replied
    Originally posted by tkarlmann
    I thought this was BT Central site? Has everyone turned into cast iron saw owners here?

    I'm very very surprised at the responses here.

    What has happened that everyone is so negative on the BT3100 saw? Has the BT3100 changed while I wasn't looking? Mine hasn't. Now you buy a saw because it has Biesmier fence on it over a BT3100? Really? Did everyone fall off the bandwagon just because Rod Kirby bought a non-BT saw?

    What has happened to this forum?
    It probably has a lot to do with the fact that the BT is no longer marketed as such. It's not really negative toward a BT when someone prefers a characteristic of another saw over the BT. There are some advantages to other designs too.

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by master53yoda
    Everyone talks about hybrids. the bt saws where the first hybrids made. everyone else just copied them.
    Oh comeon, first the BT is as accurate as industrial cabinet table saws, and now they are the original Hybrids ? I'm sure if I hang around here long enough someone will tell me that a Harbor Frieght wood lathe is as good, if not better then an Oliver wood lathe.

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  • master53yoda
    replied
    I have used my BT3000 for 12 years, my son has a the top line Ridgid saw from 2 years ago and it isn't one bit more accurate then my BT and doesn't have any more power unless ripping 3" thick oak. The miter table i have used for picture frames and its accuracy is far better then his without using the sliding table I built for it. /the fence is dead on and i can also put feather boards on it for down pressure. that isn't possible with most other saw fences. I have used a unisaw and don't find its accuracy any better.

    Any one that can't get accuracy out of the BT3x00 saw is simply not taking the time to set them up. I have bought a spare saw off cragslist so that I won't need to go away from what I feel is the best saw purchaseable under 1000.00. everyone talks about hybrids. the bt saws where the first hybrids made. everyone else just copied them.

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  • tkarlmann
    replied
    Wow: so much negative waves for a BT saw?

    I thought this was BT Central site? Has everyone turned into cast iron saw owners here?

    I'm very very surprised at the responses here.

    What has happened that everyone is so negative on the BT3100 saw? Has the BT3100 changed while I wasn't looking? Mine hasn't. Now you buy a saw because it has Biesmier fence on it over a BT3100? Really? Did everyone fall off the bandwagon just because Rod Kirby bought a non-BT saw?

    What has happened to this forum?

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  • Russianwolf
    replied
    Charlie, Have you ever used a BT3xxx? I ask because in an earlier post you said you'd class it as a "portable jobsite saw". I think if you have used one for any period of time you would not think this as that kind of environment would knock the accuracy of the saw out of whack pretty easily. Yes, it's light weight, but once dialed in you don't want to be tossing it around in a truck bed.


    I've had my BT for about 6 years and I have used a 40 year old Unisaw in my uncle's shop as well as a Laguna Euro-style saw in one of the Navy hobby shops (don't ask me how they got it, but it is nice) where I was stationed. And I can honestly say that the BT is every bit as accurate as either of those saws. When this saw dies, and hopefully it won't be for a long time yet, I'll be replacing it with a Euro-style saw only because I want to go to a 12 inch for taller cuts and I've fallen in love with the sliding table and riving knife that most contractors saws will simple never compete with.

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  • Charlie
    replied
    Originally posted by Sawatzky
    So, what is your design for dust collection? I would like to modify my Ridgid contractor saw for the best dust colletion.
    No longer availabe.
    Last edited by Charlie; 01-10-2010, 03:02 PM.

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  • Knottscott
    replied
    Originally posted by TrackDays
    Hey guys, thanks again. Okay, found a floor model clearance on this saw - think it is a keeper. I still need to find out about warranties, etc. but good deal.

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=Y&origin=prod

    $470 - tax in, out the door.
    That's a great deal on a very nice saw made by Steel City's Orion division. At 425# it's very stable, has an excellent fence, cabinet mounted trunnions, 44" wide cast iron surface, serpentine style drive belt, and even comes with a decent stock blade. The throat insert will accept standard Delta inserts. You can even easily slide the fence to the right 10" for a 40" rip capacity. It's got a very good track record and a large loyal following. It's a questionable bargain at $1200, but I would not pass on that deal for $470.


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  • Sawatzky
    replied
    "I really get tired of hearing those comments. I worked on dust collection for my Contractors saw for about a year and finally came up with a design that I'm completely happy with, and other people are as well."

    So, what is your design for dust collection? I would like to modify my Ridgid contractor saw for the best dust colletion.

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