Kreg Pocket Hole jig

[Luckbox]

Does anyone have any experience with either of these kits? I am looking to purchase one but not sure which is the best way to go. What are the real differences? I know the K3 comes with the clamp and the dust port adaptor, but I guess my real question is does this justify the higher cost. The clamp would be nice but I have numerous other clamps that I am sure would work with the jig. Just didn’t know if anyone out there has bought the K4 but looks back now and wishes they had bought the k3. Just trying to figure out which kit I should buy. Thanks.

[cabinetman]

Not to stifle your interest in pocket holes, but I tried them and don't like the method. Traditional joinery seems to work better for me.
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[LCHIEN]

the pocket hole jigs and systems can be very convenient for quick projects and strong. If you don't mind the holes or at least can put them where they won't show.

The K4 is a budget system with an apparently cheaper to make jig that has moved the locking handle to the back (like the old K2000) instead of the more convenient front.

The clamp is very convenient and is useful because of the floating flat face that lines up the front faces of the wood pieces you are joining. Not just any clamp will do. But non-Kreg clamps of a similar design can be had for around $12 IIRC.

so a few less features in the jig and no clamp for $40... your choice.

The two features on the K3 and not on my K2000 I wish iI had are the dust collector and the front locking handle. But not enough to trade up for more money.

the Kreg PJ tools I've used (K2000 and K3) all work well, I think the difference will just be features.

[LarryG]

"cabinetman," note that the question is not about the merits of pocket hole joinery. The question is about the differences between two different pocket hole jig products.

I have the older K2000 kit, a predecessor to the K3 that is generally similar in operation. I have used the separate face-frame clamp that came with the kit, but find that is does not always exert sufficient force to keep the two members from being forced apart as the screws are driven home. Sometimes it works great, sometimes not. Most often, I clamp the pieces to the top of my assembly table with a Bessey K-Body.



I recently ordered the Bench Klamp System, which has an anchoring plate that recesses into the top of a workbench. I'm told these work better than the hand-type clamp, but I've not actually used it yet. These can sometimes be found on sale for around $20, so that might be another alternative for you to consider.

[cabinetman]

"cabinetman," note that the question is not about the merits of pocket hole joinery. The question is about the differences between two different pocket hole jig products.

Is that a fact? Actually, I knew that, but thanks for pointing that out. Now and then I get motivated to push traditional woodworking methods, while saving money. Something like a reality check.
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[Knottscott]

I was given a Kreg Rocket kit as a gift, and liked it a lot. Later I was given a Kreg K3 Pro, which obviously I like even better. It is a nicer kit with more goodies, but I'm not sure that the added cost of the Pro kit is justified. You might try just the basic $20 single kit that included the bit and the jig...use a Quick Grip type clamp and it'll work great, and will give you a "cheap feel" to see whether or not you like using pocket holes. I've actually given up most of my biscuit use in favor of using no biscuits or pocket holes.

[LinuxRandal]

If you have to work with larger panels (aka building shop or kitchen cabinets) the handle in the front alone, makes it worthwhile. JMHO.

[LCHIEN]

I was given a Kreg Rocket kit as a gift, and liked it a lot. Later I was given a Kreg K3 Pro, which obviously I like even better. It is a nicer kit with more goodies, but I'm not sure that the added cost of the Pro kit is justified. You might try just the basic $20 single kit that included the bit and the jig...use a Quick Grip type clamp and it'll work great, and will give you a "cheap feel" to see whether or not you like using pocket holes. I've actually given up most of my biscuit use in favor of using no biscuits or pocket holes.

the little Rocket set is very useful for ocassional joints - or those joints where it hard to move the workpiece and have to take the jig to an awkward place. The bigger K2000, K3, K4 jigs are faster and easier to set up for many repetitive joints on face frames and when you have a series of smaller workpieces that may ulitmately assemble into a large piece.

Used to be that you got a handy Rocket jig thrown in with the K2000 kit but it seems they've dropped this from the K3 and K4 kits. As the Rocket uses the same drill and driver and screws as the big kits, this seems like a really cheap cost saving move. Manufacturing cost for the Rocket jig alone must be a under a couple of bucks and the tooling long since paid off.

[poolhound]

I have an older K3. It doesnt get a lot of use but when it does its really great, that front clamp helps a lot. The dust port also does a great job and I prefer to catch as much dust direct rather than let it collect all over the shop.

If you can combine your purchase with a coupon thenthat helps with the price. IIRC I got mine at Rockler a couple of years ago and used one of their general 20% of coupons to soften the blow.

[ragswl4]

I have a K2000 and love it. That said, if you will be doing a lot of pocket holes (I do) you might come to love the chip/dust collection of the K4. The drilling creates a lot of chips that make a real mess.

[BigguyZ]

I bought the K3 jig from Lowes then it was clearances for like $60-$80. I have the R3 rocket jig at the time, and although the R3 was good, having the K3 is awesome. I was doing some rought casework for a built in I was building, and putting the carcasses together was incredibly fast. I also used it for the drawers. I tried dovetails and box joints for the, but the plywood was trearing out badly with either option. The pocket holes are more than strong enough for the drawers and it made the whole process go VERY quickly. Lastly, I used the pocket hols for the face frame. Went to gether in a snap.

So yeah, I definitely reccomend the K3.

[ragswl4]

If you have to work with larger panels (aka building shop or kitchen cabinets) the handle in the front alone, makes it worthwhile. JMHO.

Excellent point, the clamp handle on the K2000 is in the rear and while functionally sound, it can occasionally be a pain.

[LCHIEN]

I have a K2000 and love it. That said, if you will be doing a lot of pocket holes (I do) you might come to love the chip/dust collection of the K4. The drilling creates a lot of chips that make a real mess.

the K3 has dust collection port, too as well as the front lock handle.

[bmyers]

I have the older style full kit but mostly just use the $20 one. I built a shop shelving unit to store big heavy things like my dewalt planer and other stuff and it's still going strong even after moving it across the country, and I moved it with stuff on it in the moving truck. The joint are plenty strong. Not as strong as M&T but..

I just got back from my cabin in Nova Scotia and wouldnt go there without it. When I need to bang something together that still needs to be strong, its awesome. I used it for stairs, a ladder to the loft and a counter-top with backsplash. I just bring the basic kit, clamp and drill bit. Make sure you use the right screw for the wood you want to joint. It makes a difference (course or fine thread).


Bill

[Luckbox]

Well I agree that I would rather use traditional joinery, one my skill level is not there yet that I can create good joiner quickly, and two is time. I plan on learning and increasing my skill in joinery but there at this time there are simple project that I just need to put it together quickly and I have use Biscuits and have not been impressed where as what I have seen and I have tried the pocket hole jigs seem easier to use and more accurate.