Kreg Pocket Hole jig

[pacwind3]

First off let me recommend this: if you can afford the K3, get it, you won't regret it.
Second: I wasn't entirely sold on pocket holes until working for a shop that produced custom high end pro shops. They use pocket holes all the time and the really worked well. When I started there I was a little put out by how frequently they were used as opposed to traditional joinery, but over time I saw that they produced really good results and fast.
Third: I often use a hybrid method of biscuits with pocket holes. The biscuits allow for good alignment. I then glue and screw with pocket holes. VERY strong method.

[gsmittle]

The only PH kit I've ever owned is the K3, which I like very much. The dust collector adapter is very nice (I thought it was more decoration than practical until I used it). In fact, coupled to my ShopVac, it practically vacuum clamps pieces to the jig.

I've used it mainly for things like shop cabinets and an entertainment center, where it was fast and easy. I'm not sure I'd use PH for "fine furniture," but then I have yet to make any fine furniture.

+1 on the "if you can afford it, go for it" vote.

g.

[leehljp]

I can't comment on the differences you asked about, but I do use pocket holes. I have several items - a cabinets hutch, bookshelves and lathe table and a large router table/cabinet made with pocket holes and they are sturdy. Knowing that I would be taking some of these back to the States at retirement and also knowing that I would be somewhat limited in space, I made these with pocket holes for strength while the screws would allow dis-assembly for shipping.

I was concerned with strength at first but learned the concept that if it is square and butt-joined correctly, the proper screw made things very strong.

I have learned how to assemble with PHs while hiding the holes. It takes a little forethought but it can be done. Below is the router table done totally in PH screws. It was made about 7 years ago and has survived a move by a moving company without disassembly and remained square as the day it was finished. (I will add that the drawers were done with slot joints and glue.)





A Hutch done totally in pocket screws (Except the drawers).

[pelligrini]

Another vote for the K3.

I picked up the K3 master a while back and I really do like it when I choose to do pocket holes. I recently made a base that will let me clamp it into my face vice on my bench. I've been thinking about adding a couple tracks with adjustable stops for jobs with a lot of repetitive holes. It really saves a lot of time and effort for things where pocket holes are appropriate.

I also picked up the large screw assortment box. I like having an assortment fasteners on hand for whatever comes up.

[drumpriest]

I use an older rocket kit, but the k3 is quite nice, I've used it doing demos for Rockler. Mostly I find that the clamp on block is of use as pieces quickly become too unwieldy for use in the clamp jig, for me anyway.

As to the use of pocket holes. I love pocket screws, use them for many things without pocket holes, just nice screws. I occasionally use pocket screws for projects, especially where they will not be seen. I've also used them in place of clamping. I have put cases together where I used mortise and loose tenon in combination with pocket screws so that I didn't have to clamp it up and wait.

I typically build my shop stuff with pocket screws and have found them reliable. They are also great for face frame construction for chests of drawers, for instance, where they'll never be seen.

If you can see it, I use traditional joinery, but pocket screws have their place in my work.