Another HF DC Story....

[BerniePA]

OK Guys, here's what happened to me today while I was turning a pen. I turned on the DC and it started and was running, I was using an IPOD with ear plugs so I really could't hear it with the air filter, lathe, tool, etc. but when I got the turning done and was ready to start sanding the pen, I happened to look across the shop and the top bag of the DC was collapsed, which we all know is NOT a good sign for a running DC. Sure enough, it was no longer running. I really don't have time at the moment to get into anything with it, and it is located in a bad spot to get to it, however, the way I have it set up, I never touch the on/off switch -- it is always switched on and the power is controlled through a remote control unit that the DC is plugged into. I did take this out out the circuit and plug in the DC directly into the outlet, (which is hot), which should have started the DC if the remote unit was bad, but no work. I did manage to reach the on/off switch on the DC and it did NOT seem to be able to move, it seemed frozen in the ON position.

As I said, I don't the the time for the next day or so to get any further into it, but I would appreciate any ideas on what would have caused it to die WHILE running. Nothing seems to be jammed in the impellers either and there is NO sound at all when I apply power (or try to). I'm thinking the switch may have gone, IF this is so, since I really don't use the switch, anyone see a problem in wiring around the switch and using my remote unit to apply power to the DC??

Thanks in advance for any ideas/advice.

[JR]

I would suspect the switch. I had one go out on me, however I don't think it happened while running.

Yes, you can wire around the switch. I had mine bypassed for quite some time, then installed a 20amp light switch purchased at HD.

Are you confident in the remote control? Is it rated for the kind of power the DC consumes? I have a feeling that the underrated X-10 I was using contributed the switch failure on my DC. I have since upgraded to beefier one like they sell at Woodcraft and Rockler.

JR

[dbhost]

Even without cycling the switch, electrical switches have a tendency to go bad over time... And mounting a switch directly on a motor puts it in a high vibration environment. (Relatively speaking). If you can find a suitable replacement at an electrical supplier other than HF you might be better off that way...

[BerniePA]

I would suspect the switch. I had one go out on me, however I don't think it happened while running.

Yes, you can wire around the switch. I had mine bypassed for quite some time, then installed a 20amp light switch purchased at HD.

Are you confident in the remote control? Is it rated for the kind of power the DC consumes? I have a feeling that the underrated X-10 I was using contributed the switch failure on my DC. I have since upgraded to beefier one like they sell at Woodcraft and Rockler.

JR

I think I can feel confident in the remote. I have had that set up for about five years or so now, with no trouble until today, including my move from AZ to PA.

Thanks for the reply and the vote for wiring around the switch, (assuming that is what I find is wrong when I get in there).

[LCHIEN]

sounds like a lot of guessing about the switch. Anyone halfway competent with a Volt-ohm multimeter can quickly determine if the switch is OK or not.

[gerti]

Happened with mine too, while running. I had not even been using the switch (I use light switches to turn it on/off from various locations around the shop.

One of the phases in the switch was burned out, I wired around it.

[Brian G]

It happened to me, too, right in the middle of routing something. Based on previous posts over the years, this is not an unusual problem with the HF DC.

Count me in the group that wired around the switch; I use a remote-relay system described by Loring in this thread.

It's slicker than a snotty marble, and cheap, too.

[LCHIEN]

It happened to me, too, right in the middle of routing something. Based on previous posts over the years, this is not an unusual problem with the HF DC.

Count me in the group that wired around the switch; I use a remote-relay system described by Loring in this thread.

It's slicker than a snotty marble, and cheap, too.

anyone needing the instructions, the link is no longer valid in the linked thread. I have them if you PM me with your e-mail address.

[Knottscott]

Switch replacement/bypass is very common with the HF DC's.

[BerniePA]

Finally got a chance today to dig into my DC problem and I dodged a bullet on this one. When I opened up the switch and disconnected it to test it out, I found one of the white wires had a loose connection at the crimp on the connector -- a simple squeeze after a test of the switch with VOM just to be sure and I was back in business.

Thanks to all for the replies, I'll be waiting for the switch to bite the dust for good now and know what to do when it does.