Central Pnuematic 94667 compressor on Craigslist...

[dbhost]

A VERY local fellow has a Central Pnuematic 94667 (The 110V 21 gallon upright compressor) for sale, 9 months old fitted with a ball valve drain (the OE drain petcock valve stank, big surprise there huh?), and a claimed 9 months old, for $150.00. His asking price seems kind of high to me, so I was wondering, what is the highest I should go for this? Take into consideration that the current sale price on them is $199.00 I can add the 20% off coupon on that and end up at $160.00 + tax for a total of $173.20 with a warranty. My gut tells me don't pay a penny more than $110.00 for a used one.

So the question is...

#1. Should I push to see if I can get the seller to go down on the price, and if so how far?
#2. Should I hold out on this one to go on sale and combine it with a 20% discount coupon? (I have seen this particular compressor at $159.00 before).
#3. Should I bite the bullet and just grab a new one?

I am getting COMPLETELY fed up with my electric brad nailer that I now pretty much HAVE to follow up with a hammer to set the brads EVERY SINGLE TIME, not to mention I really could use the power to drive my impact, air ratchet, die grinder etc... And this thing has enough to drive a spray gun, although not an HVLP.

[LCHIEN]

A central Pnematic tool that has been "broken in" and tested for hours and still works is worth more than a new one, Dave. Offer him $250.

[sweensdv]

$100 tops. That's a pretty big tank to fill up all the time just to shoot a few brads. If you plan on using it for spraying sometime in the future then you should check out the CFM requirements of the spray gun you'll most likely use and compare it to the output of this compressor.

[Uncle Cracker]

a central pnematic tool that has been "broken in" and tested for hours and still works is worth more than a new one, dave. Offer him $250.:d

roflmao

[dbhost]

$100 tops. That's a pretty big tank to fill up all the time just to shoot a few brads. If you plan on using it for spraying sometime in the future then you should check out the CFM requirements of the spray gun you'll most likely use and compare it to the output of this compressor.

Already have the air tools. My sprayer is a gravity feed HF spray gun from way back when. Req 4 CFM.

Biggest air user is the die grinder at 6. Should be no sweat for this thing...

Spraying isn't a huge concern as I will likely go with a self contained HVLP system eventually, but rather die grinder and air hammer for auto use are what tilted me toward this mid sized model...

[Mr__Bill]

It's on sale! $169 and there is a 20% off coupon for this weekend. And this 20% off coupon is also available.

Thanks to drillman88

Bill

[LCHIEN]

Already have the air tools. My sprayer is a gravity feed HF spray gun from way back when. Req 4 CFM.

Biggest air user is the die grinder at 6. Should be no sweat for this thing...

Spraying isn't a huge concern as I will likely go with a self contained HVLP system eventually, but rather die grinder and air hammer for auto use are what tilted me toward this mid sized model...

Dave, if its 110V then its unlikely to be able to put out 6 CFM (for your die grinder) continuously. Maybe for a while until the tank is depleted and if you work in short bursts then stop for an equal or longer time it'll cathc up, but not continuously. I'm not familiar with metalworking that much but a die grinder might be used for many minutes on end???
Most 110V only compressors are limited to 15A and thus only do around 4.5 CFM continuously. I'm sure you must know that.
A rule of thumb (for reasonable compressor life) would be to try and have your compressor running no more than 50% of the time so 12 CFM continuous capacity compressor might be what's recommended for running a 6 CFM tool continuous.

Just looked up the HF listing - it says 4.9 CFM at 115PSI (it claims 7 @ 40 psi but your tool is unlikely to be able to run on that low a pressure) also says 12A but needs a dedicated 20A circuit - figure that out.

[dbhost]

Yeah go figure.

The die grinder is used in short bursts. I use it for trimming, and grinding, and buffing. I'll give you an example...

I am working on an International Harvester 345 CID 4BBL V-8 engine with a friend for his old Scout II. The cylinder heads are off, and we want to clean the faces of both the cylinder block AND the heads before checking for any warpage and reassembly (among other things...). The die grinder has a pad adapter spun onto it, and a white 3M pad gets put on it. We run the grinder for less than a minute, check the work, run it again, check so on...

We have been typically working with one of those little 12 gallon Campbell Hausfield compressors from WalMart, and it keeps up fine. The specs on those are FAR lower than the HF. Yeah we all know HF overrates their equipment, then again, so does CH...

Would I be better off with the 220v model?

If we are looking at how much air is used for how long a period, I am going to have to say my air ratchet is probably the one that has the paddle held down the longest that uses a bunch of air. I tend to go from bolt, to bolt, to bolt without stopping. I have winded that little CH more than once...

[Mr__Bill]

The advantage of 220 is, most people don't have a 20A 220V outlet handy, so they can't borrow it. 220, if available balances the load so you don't have a voltage sage on one leg when it starts up. Some people say the motor runs cooler, I don't know if this is true. I think a 220V motor starts easier under load but that may just be my imagination. The real advantage is when current draw is over 20A at 110, then at 220 standard 12 AWG wiring can be used to the compressor outlet. It also sounds more macho to say, I have a 220V compressor!
The HF 220V version has a better duty cycle and a little bit more air available.

Bill

[LCHIEN]

The advantage of 220 is, most people don't have a 20A 220V outlet handy, so they can't borrow it. 220, if available balances the load so you don't have a voltage sage on one leg when it starts up. Some people say the motor runs cooler, I don't know if this is true. I think a 220V motor starts easier under load but that may just be my imagination. The real advantage is when current draw is over 20A at 110, then at 220 standard 12 AWG wiring can be used to the compressor outlet. It also sounds more macho to say, I have a 220V compressor!
The HF 220V version has a better duty cycle and a little bit more air available.

Bill

can't argue with any of Bill's points.
If I wanted more than 4 CFM at 90 psi, a 220V compressor would be in order.

[Uncle Cracker]

If I wanted more than 4 CFM at 90 psi, a 220V compressor would be in order.

Yup, it was my compressor, more than any other tools, that drove me to ultimately wire my shop with 220.

[drillman88]

I bought this compressor about 1 1/2 years ago it has meet most of my needs its not perfect but a nice compromise of size and cost. I paid $115 on sale with coupon. There is a 220 version of the same compressor that is generally the same price,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93271

I think used it would be worth 75-100 dollars, it may be worth a few extra bucks to get a warranty with a new one imho.