HF 14" band saw upgrades

[Doc74]

Hi all,

I recently bought a used central machinery 14" band saw. Model 33208.
Bought it used from a guy who used it once or twice. He let it go for $100 so I thought why not!

I just ordered the riser kit from HF and am now looking for more improvements.
I requested a catalog from timberwolf so I can get good blades and I would like to order som Olson cool blocks.
Another thing I'd like to get is a link belt. Now the HF band saw has two v belts, A-22 and A-42. Do I need to order a link belt totalling 70" to be sure?

I'll also be looking in replacing the stand or at least make it more stable. I will move the power switch to the upper frame, which by the way is pre drilled for this.

And I might change the tires altough I'm not sure that is needed.

The table will be extended by something homemade and since I'm to cheap to buy a real fence, I'll just have to make my own. Anyone have a good plan for those?

[pelligrini]

dbhost has been tricking out his HF 14" for a while, he and a few others might have some info.

[Doc74]

dbhost has been tricking out his HF 14" for a while, he and a few others might have some info.

That's some good info! Thanks!

I just added a 5' link belt to my order after I found that I can remove the middle pulley. I doubt I would be using anything but highest speed setting anyway.

[Uncle Cracker]

One place to go for this kind of help is Iturra Designs in Jacksonville, FL. I don't think they have a website (a small company with better things to do), but they have a toll-free phone number: 1-888-722-7078. Their catalog is about an inch thick, and is a whole lot more than just a catalog. It's a whole "bible" on bandsaw features and hop-ups. They are extremely knowledgeable folks, and will help you get your saw in order straightaway...

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Doc74:

Here are the changes that I made to my HF BS. Most are shop-built. None are expensive.

> I replaced the outer belt with a link belt - only one belt because I was too lazy to replace the inner one.
> Riser from a Rigid BS. Made new guide bar to fit HF BS.
> Mobile base.
> Magnetic base work light from HF often on sale for about $8
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90766
> Extended the tensioning knob above the top door. Replaced the short tensioning knob with a longer piece of hardened 3/8" threaded rod, chamfered on the lower end. Replaced the square metric nut with a square 3/8 nut. (get a hardened nut, if you can.) Made 3-1/2" diam knob ... makes it real easy to turn.
> Iturra tension spring.
> Stronger throat plate from 1/8" ply. Added a backer for more strength.
> Better dust pickup.
* If you use a shop vac, buy a black rubber plumbing coupling with hose clamps on each end at HD. One end will clamp over the HF dust port. The other can be tightened to where a shopvac hose will slip in and out.
* If you have a DC, make a replacement dust port out of 4" white plastic sewer pipe.
http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...98&postcount=6
> Fence. I haven't found anything better than this ...
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
> Larger table. I haven't made one, but here link to photo. (With a selfish reference to my BS fence, too.)
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...=&sb=5&o=&vc=1

- Lonnie

[dbhost]

I am not done with mine, but have the plan mapped out...

Okay my Bandsaw is fitted with the following.
Accura Micro Adjustable roller bearing blade guides. These are nice, but some patience with the OE guide assemblies and cool blocks might be a better bet. I had to get a machine bushing from the plastic bins at my friendly neighborhood Ace Hardware. Once set up they ROCK.

The Harbor Freight riser block kit, if you can get it is ideal since the guide post is the right size, and everything fits. If you use the Accura roller guides, you will need to trim the blade guide at the corner with a bench grinder though. No biggie. Only about 1/8" of corner material in the way...

The Timberwolf blades are another excellent buy.

Dust collection improvements on mine are removing the OE dust port, and bungee cording my 4" flex hose as close to the blade at the bottom of the table as I could get it.

A Harbor Freight universal mobile base helps me move this beast when I need to which isn't very often...

Craftsman Professional #23409 Universal Band Saw fence. It's okay at best...

Upcoming mods include...

The Harbor Freight Acculink Link Belt item #43371 which is reported to provide vibration free operation. I believe you will need 2 belt kits and will have extra left over.

Grizzly Tension Release mod thread is a great place to start...

Lower wheel brush.

Carter urethane tires.

You have probably the best riser kit for that saw on order as all the parts fit, and look right.

The previously mentioned HF Magnetic lamp. (One for the bandsaw, one for the drill press).

The power switch move you mentioned.

I am not sure what issue you have with the base. Mine is steady as a rock. Make double and triple sure all the braces that are supposed to be there are there.... Not sure how the motor would mount if they were missing though... You might go one bolt at a time, take the nut off, apply some Lock Tite blue and then run the nut down and tighten it right. It sounds like maybe loose fasteners or something... Like maybe whoever assembled it left out the lock washers.

[Doc74]

This is good stuff gentlemen!

I will definitely give Iturra a call. I can certainly use a band saw book.

Lonnie, great fence, just what I need and that table looks to be a great addition as well. I'll have to study these pictures hard and figure out how to build these or similar at least.

All these tips are great, some of them are on my list already. I read somewhere that one link belt is enough if you remove the middle pulley. If you replace both v belts then I think you need around 6'. I don't think I'll be using lower speeds so I'm going with the single belt setup. I can always revert it back to original configuration and add a second link belt.

I'm going to order a tension spring, I guess the cobra coil but have not looked into it yet and I'll go ahead and order cool blocks. Should I get Olson blocks? Are there others even? Anyone have the right part number for those or do I get whatever fits a Jet for instance?
I was going to go with the HF roller guides but they seem to be discontinued. Guides I find online are too expensive and the cool blocks supposedly work great on narrow blades which I'll need.

This reminds me...I never did say what I'd use the band saw for did I?

Well I mainly bought it to aid me in building guitars. I will need a fine blade that can handle the tight curves of a solid body electric guitar and headstock while cutting through 2" thick hardwood. Also for use to build several guitar templates out of 1/4 and 1/2 MDF.
And I'll need a wide blade to resaw several hardwoods I can bookmatch for acoustic guitar tops and back.

Since I have no real idea which to get, I ordered a catalog from Timberwolf.

[LCHIEN]

...
Since I have no real idea which to get, I ordered a catalog from Timberwolf.

I haven't done it but i hear over an over again that the folks at Suffolk Machinery (timberwolf blades) are very knowlegable and the best thing to do is to call them and describe your application and they will recommend the proper blades. since you are getting at least two blades it seems, they also have a deal, buy two and get one free or something - ask about it.

[dbhost]

It's buy 3 get 1 free from Suffolk if the sale is still on. Really good blades. I am running 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4". Call the staff at Suffolk. I really don't recall the hook set or TPI except for my 1/2" blades are 3 TPI... Anyway, they can walk you through picking the right blades. I picked mine as I resaw some pretty green stuff, not to mention cutting bowl blanks...

At the very least on the tension deal, go with a Cobra coil, the stocker doesn't like the riser block, and grab a full length tension rod that puts the knob over the top of the upper wheel guard. The stock location makes it VERY hard to tension and detension this saw.

[tfischer]

Here's what I changed:

1) HF Riser kit
2) T-Wolf blades
3) Kreg Universal BS Fence. Needs some modifications to work, but it's a very nice fence
4) Resaw attachment for #3
5) Two work lights: First one was an old desklamp I rigged up behind the blade. This caused two many shadows, so I got a clamp-lamp that I attach to the far end of the fence rail. I kept the original one on since there was really no reason to remove it, and now I have a ton of light.
6) Minor rewiring so work lights are powered from the same cord as the BS itself.
7) Mobile Base.
8) Grizzly Tension Release Mod, mentioned above. This is a must-have IMHO-- not only does this let you easily detension your blade every time, but it rises the tensioner knob above the top of the saw.

What I'd still like to do:
9) New spring
10) Figure out a way to hinge the panels
11) Possibly a link belt, but I'm not bothered by the level of vibration currently...

[Uncle Cracker]

3) Kreg Universal BS Fence.

I know several people who speak this language fluently...

[Doc74]

I am not sure what issue you have with the base. Mine is steady as a rock. Make double and triple sure all the braces that are supposed to be there are there.... Not sure how the motor would mount if they were missing though... You might go one bolt at a time, take the nut off, apply some Lock Tite blue and then run the nut down and tighten it right. It sounds like maybe loose fasteners or something... Like maybe whoever assembled it left out the lock washers.

Not so much an issue really. It looks a bit cheap and has some dents so I'm thinking of building a bigger wooden stand with casters. Just a personal preference but it will do for now.