10" disc sander 'on-the-cheap'.

[Stan]

For those who do not have a dedicated disc sander -- but have the need for one.

Ridgid makes a 10" sanding wheel with 5/8" arbor that is available from Toolsnow.com (formerly known as the Cummins Tool truck sales) here. For around $10, if the truck sale is in your area - slightly higher if you order online due to shipping, a table saw and a piece of scrap plywood for a sacrificial fence and you can be in business with a 10" disc sander.

For setting up the saw, it also gives a flat surface for checking square. (Removing the sandpaper disc is recommended).

Here is the setup that I use when sanding finished door edges to remove any left-over saw blade marks.



In place of the fence jig that is shown above, I now use a piece of 1/2" BB ply and a couple of these clamps from Rockler for the sacrificial fence. Makes for an easy-on, easy-off setup.

[LCHIEN]

i think Sears craftsman sells an 10" sanding adapter, too.
People use a router speed control on the BT3s (yes its OK to do so) to slow it down in some cases; 4800 RPM for a sanding disk can be a bit high sometimes.

[Tom Slick]

I have a flat disc from sears but I like the tapered disc from woodworker's supply better. You can run the board past the disc using the rip fence, very good for making pieces exactly the same width and straight after ripping.

[Stan]

i think Sears craftsman sells an 10" sanding adapter, too.
People use a router speed control on the BT3s (yes its OK to do so) to slow it down in some cases; 4800 RPM for a sanding disk can be a bit high sometimes.

Good point on the speed control for BT3X00 users. I have the Delta Hybrid saw so I use the combination of lower arbor speed, feed rate and pressure to keep from burning stock.

[Stan]

I have a flat disc from sears but I like the tapered disc from woodworker's supply better. You can run the board past the disc using the rip fence, very good for making pieces exactly the same width and straight after ripping.

Tom,
What setup do you use for sizing stock width with the sanding disc?

[just started]

I have a flat disc from sears but I like the tapered disc from woodworker's supply better. You can run the board past the disc using the rip fence, very good for making pieces exactly the same width and straight after ripping.

I must be missing something here. How can you get a flat, true and square side by sanding on a tapered surface?

[dbhost]

Something makes me think that can't possibly be safe. Maybe I am wrong, but gut feeling says run away!

[gsmittle]

I must be missing something here. How can you get a flat, true and square side by sanding on a tapered surface?

I don't own one of these, so I could be talking out of my backside here. As I understand it, the tapered side is toward the rip fence. You tilt the arbor until the taper is square to the table, then off you go!

Shouldn't be any more dangerous than ripping a board between the blade and rip fence. Just pay attention to the feed rate, etc.

Again, I don't own one, and always remember that with free advice you get what you pay for....

g.

[Tom Slick]

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=95-430&LARGEVIEW=ON

keep in mind that you remove less then 1/32" at a time. It works very good and is easy to use. It doesn't have any tendency to kick back, lift, etc. The bevel eliminates the sharp corner/edge so you don't gouge the material as it makes contact with the sander.

[Stan]

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...0&LARGEVIEW=ON

keep in mind that you remove less then 1/32" at a time. It works very good and is easy to use. It doesn't have any tendency to kick back, lift, etc. The bevel eliminates the sharp corner/edge so you don't gouge the material as it makes contact with the sander.

Excellent description, I was wondering about the bevel feature. Didn't cross my mind about a flat disc gouging material on contact. Think one of those bevel disc's may float towards the top of my short list.

[docrowan]

About the truing disk - I also don't own one, but I plan to purchase one so I've read pretty extensively about them. The disk is in a very slight cone shape with a 2 degree angle. You tilt the saw arbor 2 degrees so the disk is at right angles to your table saw surface. This way there is only a very narrow line of contact between the work piece and the sanding disk. Also, the abrasive scratches are in line with the wood, instead of in an arc.

Edit: My post was late, sorry for the repeat.