I'd want to lay hands on it, see how stable etc... it is. HF isn't exactly known for fit and finish on its products... And things like router table fences make quite a bit of difference in the quality of work output...
Questions arise as to how it attaches to the table -- looks to be by two miter slot T-slots although the position of the bolts on the fence seem to be fixed in position. Couldn't tell, through a very quick scan of the manual, if other means of attachment to the table are included.
It seems to me that one would be well advised to make sure that it works with their particular table's configuration.
Still, if the fence measures up, it may be worth the trouble to either cut new slots in the table (with some compromise on rigidity) or to drill new bolt holes in the back of the fence.
Looks like just drilling a couple of new holes will adjust the hole spacing for mounting the fence, if this (part 2) fits standard miter slots. If not a couple of correct t-nuts should take care of this issue also.
I picked one up today and it rang up for $9.86 in the store. The tag on the shelf was $39 or $49 (can't remember for certain.)
It is sitting on my office floor right now. It seems pretty solid. The 24" steel angle gives it some weight. The dust collector catch is really a 1 1/4" port with a 2 1/2" adaptor connected to it. It looks like a decent piece of hardware, especially for $10.
A couple things I'm not too fond of with the fence; the small dust port (which can be easily fixed) and the two steel bars. In the images the bars look like they just go to the extension. (I didn't really look at the photos closely) They also help align both of the movable sides. The lower bar in the 3 slot fence passes right in front of the dust opening. I'm not sure if that will be a real problem. It's still not bad for the price.
I'll certainly be using one on the future drill press table. I think the 3 t-slots in both sides of the fence will come in handy for hold downs, flip stops, etc.
I've never had a router table. My impression is that you just take a piece of hardwood or plastic, cut a notch for the router bit, screw down one end and swing the other end and clamp for adjusting the depth of cut for routing along the edge. Otherwise clamp both ends for routing away from the edge.
I've never had a router table. My impression is that you just take a piece of hardwood or plastic, cut a notch for the router bit, screw down one end and swing the other end and clamp for adjusting the depth of cut for routing along the edge. Otherwise clamp both ends for routing away from the edge.
Someday I'll make a router table.
Tom at Marrowstone
I have two tables, one in the US and one in Japan. Both have my own quick and simple made fences but a good fence is much more than that. A good dust collection for considerable routing is two fold - under the top base and at the fence for the top.
A GOOD ROUTER FENCE:
1. Top Vac Port.
On the table I have in Japan, I have a good vac system that works well for pulling dust from under the table but there is considerable dust that flies around on top. I found out that if only one DC/vac suction is used, it is better to have it on the top of the table.
2. Adjustable/Sliding Sides.
It is sure great to have the ability to place a spacer between the two sides/ends that fit the profile of the bit. Really helps on end cuts and short pieces.
3. T-slots are VERY helpful for stops.
4. Adjustable Front-to-Back Right Side Fence.
The above does not have it and most fences don't. This helps when using the router as a jointer to plane/shave an edge.
The HF looks to do three of the four items, and I don't usually use the router as a jointer.
Hank Lee
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!
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