Needing new DP... Any recommendations?

[dbhost]

My DP is dying on me, badly. I couldn't square up the table to save my life recently, and have decided it is time to replace it...

I am seeing a lot of floor model drill presses on Craigslist lately, but I am not sure what to look for in a DP. I know variable speed is important, as is a well adjustable table, and good chuck throw... What are the advantages of a floor model VS a bench top unit? What should I be looking for?

Any specific models under $300.00 to recommend?

[LarryG]

I can't make any specific recommendations, at any price level.

We've batted the floor vs. benchtop question around a number of times. The general concensus seems to be that of all the tool "compromises" in the shop, you probably give up the least in choosing a benchtop drill press over a floor model. I have a floor model in my shop, but I've never used anywhere near the vertical capacity that the average benchtop model has.

Floor models will often, but not always, have more powerful motors than benchtops. For woodworking, this is not usually a big deal. OTOH floor models will often, but again not always, have a larger swing (post to chuck distance) than benchtops, and this CAN be a big deal.

Both occupy about the same amount of room in plan, and have the same clearance requirements, but a floor model comes with its own "stand." With a benchtop, you either need to sit it atop an existing bench or counter, or else build a cabinet for it to sit on.

As always it will depend on your specific needs and situation. In theory I suppose a floor model is, overall, "better" but, again, many here have said they could get by just fine with the right benchtop. I know that I would gladly trade the full-length column for more swing than the 13" I have now.

[kramer katt]

Since they seem to be more common and less "sexy" than a unisaw or PM66 you can usually get a nice 40's or 50's Delta DP pretty cheap on CL. Swapping out a motor or a clean up and restore is pretty basic and quick. Problems in the quill or bearings can be a lot more work but you should be able to diagnose by personal inspection.
Go to OWWM.ORG and search "delta dp" or "delta 220" This was the standard smaller press made for years. It came in both floor and bench versions. There is also a great 17" Delta that is a step up in capacity.
Check out the OWWM site. Members there are much like here, very helpful and full of experience they gladly share.
Also Powermatic, Walker-Turner, Buffalo, and others made heavy,cast iron and steel DPs that you just can't match today except maybe in the $5k and upper range. The less common ones may be a little harder to find replacement parts, while you can still get parts for a 1940 delta. You can also consider the 50's craftsman dp which has a lot of fans. I has an almost art deco style. Recycle American Iron and be green and patriotic.

[sscherin]

I'd look for a quality motor that can be wired 240 or 120
smooth running spindle
a good fitting arbor..
a draw bolt would be fantastic but you don't see those much outside of milling machines.

My Favroite drill press is a Bridgeport mill

[Thalermade]

Here is a link to the Wood Mag 2007 comparison, courtesy of Delta/Porter Cable.

http://www.deltaportercable.com/uplo...ress_Award.pdf

I believe some of the newer Delta's have more of a woodworkers table, but with all the plans or aftermarket tables that is probably no big deal. Lights and lasers can be useful as well.

Have fun seaching.

[herb fellows]

Moveable Head

If you get a bench model with a top that can swivel to the back of the post, (usually a screw/bolt or two to loosen) you can jimmy rig a 'table' and do longer items, so for the few times that the space between the head and the table would not be long enough for the piece you are working on , I wouldn't bother to get a floor stander for that reason. If you do have a compelling need for power, the floor models are virtually always stronger motors.

[jziegler]

Do you have a Harbor freight store near you? They have great bargins on drill presses. I have a 38142 that I got for around $120-$130 with sale and coupon. It's the largest benchtop that you're likely to find. They also have teh same head on a floor unit.

For woodworking, the most important thing seems to be having low speeds. Many small becnhtop units with 5 speeds only go down to about 500-600 RPM. A low speed around 200 RPM is what you want.

Jim

[dbhost]

Yeah, there is a Harbor Freight store in Pasadena TX... On Spencer Highway I believe...

The one I was considering from HF is the 43378.


I am just not sure if it is worth it or if I should look for an old American made model or what... I have seen it in store, and it seems fairly decent...

[jziegler]

Yeah, there is a Harbor Freight store in Pasadena TX... On Spencer Highway I believe...

The one I was considering from HF is the 43378.


I am just not sure if it is worth it or if I should look for an old American made model or what... I have seen it in store, and it seems fairly decent...

I think that's the one that's got the same head as mine. At the regular price, it's only an OK deal. On sale, it can be a great deal. I haven't measured runout on mine, but it's good. Speed range is good. It does what I need it to. An old American one may be better, but I'd expect it to do what you need.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

things to look for in a DP
Swing - this is usually the number they quote for DP size. a 12" drill press can drill to the center of a 12" circle, the distance from the drill center to the column will be 6". Bigger is better, 10" is skimpy, 15-16 is great.
Chuck capacity up to 1/2" is good
Quill travel - 2" is very skimpy, 4+ is great
HP - 1/2 on big DPs, 1/6 on small ones (8" or so)
Floor or benchtop, the floor model can take large items or thick items and drill them, but still only 4" deep (limited by quill travel).
Crank elevation of table (pain in the neck otherwise)
Speeds - 5 is skimpy, 12 or 15 is better, for woodworking, going down below 300 RPM is nice, 150 is great for use with large forstner or beam bits.
Table style - rectangular table with slots is easiest to mount to, round table with drains for metal working is most inconvenient for woodworking. You most likely want to mount your own table.
Depth stop - very convenient, but some DPs have very flimsy stop mechanisms. Check how easy it is to set.

[dbhost]

What models are available with a 4" chuck throw? The HF I was looking at throws 3-5/8" but 4" would be better...

[treetopguy2028]

T D Industrial Tools is my recommendation

In 2006 I did a search for a bench DP to replace a small Shop Fox bench model and a large TJL Tools bench model. Through www.toolking.com I bought a new T D Industrial ZJ4116II-A for $212.00. I added a Shop Fox drill press Table Vise mounted with carriage bolts and wing nuts for easy removal to clean up. I use it weekly and have been very pleased with its performance. This line of tools is made by a consortium of two companies namely TJL Tools of China and Optimum Machinen of Germany. There is only one problem I have had and I sure would appreciate advice to solve it...the chuck sometimes slips off the MT2 male drive while I am working. I have tried twisting it back on in either direction and still it works loose. Yesterday I tapped it with a shop mallet and hope that will last.

[bthere]

In 2006 I did a search for a bench DP to replace a small Shop Fox bench model and a large TJL Tools bench model. Through www.toolking.com I bought a new T D Industrial ZJ4116II-A for $212.00. I added a Shop Fox drill press Table Vise mounted with carriage bolts and wing nuts for easy removal to clean up. I use it weekly and have been very pleased with its performance. This line of tools is made by a consortium of two companies namely TJL Tools of China and Optimum Machinen of Germany. There is only one problem I have had and I sure would appreciate advice to solve it...the chuck sometimes slips off the MT2 male drive while I am working. I have tried twisting it back on in either direction and still it works loose. Yesterday I tapped it with a shop mallet and hope that will last.

The biggest thing you can do is to make sure both surfaces are clean with no oil, and especially no wax. Usually you don't want to whack these very hard. The best way to seat the chuck is to retract the jaws into the body of the chuck, place a piece of scrap wood on the table, then use the handle to extend the quill to press the chuck in place.

If you have done this, then I might guess that you don't have perfect machining on one side or the other of the taper. Beyond that, I don't have a suggestion.

[scmhogg]

TreeTop,

I used a tiny amount of valve compound to seat the taper. No problems since then.

Steve