Older 6" Jointer questions

[pelligrini]

I picked up a smaller jointer recently off of craigslist. It's fairly similar to the 36" long 6" HF units that are sold now. I think $50 was a fair deal on it. I've never heard of Durapro before. It did clean up fairly well, I'll probably spend some more time on it later. It fits in my little shop nicely. I would have like something with a better fence, but the size and price was right. It looks like the tool was made in '85. The seller said it hasn't been used in over 10 years. He bought a house and a bunch of woodworking tools came with it, and he didn't use them.

It has a 1HP motor, 110v-20a/220v-10a, currently wired for 110. The current HF model is advertised as 1HP, but it will pull 8 amps at 110. I figured the 20a motor is stronger, but I don't really know. Are the newer motors more efficient, or are the HP ratings inflated?

When I went to put the blade guard assembly back on the alloy piece that retains the spring knob fractured into many pieces. The spring knob is about to do the same. I'd like to see if mine matches the HF model, and maybe order some parts from them. Would someone with one of the HF models be able to measure the distance between a couple of the retaining ring screws and the diameter of their guard pin?

I need to make a mobile base and fabricate some dust/chip collection for it.

[dbhost]

I guess it all depends. Horsepower isn't the only factor in motor peformance. There is also torque. There is a HUGE difference for example between a gasoline engine producing 300HP with 315lb/ft torque and a diesel engine producing 300HP and 650lb/ft torque... I am not sure, but I would imagine that the same applies to electric motors...

There is also a good possibility that the amp draw rating on that old jointer is probably overinflated...

You got a screaming good deal for $50.00 for sure. gloat worthy in my eyes. Just right size too! I would be a bit concerned about the pitting, but if it doesn't impact function who cares?

[pelligrini]

That motor is pretty big, don't know if that means anything either. I think it weighs about as much as all the iron too.

The pitting is only on the far outside end of the outfeed surface. I might try filling it in, but I didn't really notice any additional resistance when testing some passes. I sanded down the rough spots and only put on one coat of wax.

I don't know about a screaming deal, a similar brand new HF model is $270. I think it's a pretty fair deal though.

I ended up getting a link belt for it because the 40" one it came with was not tight and the motor could not be adjusted any further out. I found out later that the base was put togeather wrong when I was aligning the pulleys.

I doub't I'll ever use it for rabbits, the end of the fence has a little play. It's probably about an 1/8" on the outfeed end.

[LCHIEN]

Does the motor label, upper left square in your pic, say 1 HP?

[jonmulzer]

I guess it all depends. Horsepower isn't the only factor in motor peformance. There is also torque. There is a HUGE difference for example between a gasoline engine producing 300HP with 315lb/ft torque and a diesel engine producing 300HP and 650lb/ft torque... I am not sure, but I would imagine that the same applies to electric motors...

While that is true for engines, it is not as true for motors. The majority of induction motors run at the same 3450rpm. Horsepower is a function of torque and rpm, if the rpm is the same for the two then it is an apples to apples comparison. Also, electrical motors put out horsepower in a linear fashion whereas engines have "peaks".

[Tom Slick]

The 20A rating should make it a 1.5 hp motor even with the idea of "less efficient". 8 amps for a 1 hp motor is possible if the motor is efficient, but I'd bet they are rounding up their HP number to 1. a normal industrial duty 1 hp induction motor should use be around 12-13 amps.
all of these numbers are based on 115 volts

[Tom Slick]

read through this .pdf. it is very informational about what the HP and Amp ratings should be

http://www.kevinsbrady.net/motors.pdf

[eddy merckx]

When I went to put the blade guard assembly back on the alloy piece that retains the spring knob fractured into many pieces. The spring knob is about to do the same. I'd like to see if mine matches the HF model, and maybe order some parts from them. Would someone with one of the HF models be able to measure the distance between a couple of the retaining ring screws and the diameter of their guard pin?

You would probably have the best luck finding parts from Grizzly. You can download a manual from their site here. You can just phone the part numbers in.

I have a similar vintage, generic Taiwanese jointer. It works great. Mine even had similar pitting. As long as the bed is waxed, wood slides easily. It is pretty easy to make an internal ramp for dust collection. I used 1/4" hardboard nailed to a 1 x 2 frame.

Best wishes,
eddy

[messmaker]

Here is what I came up with. Spring retainer is held in place by 3 screws that are 30mm apart.The hole the pin goes in is 12.5mm. The shaft is 12mm for the first 45mm and the bottom 25mm is cut down to 11mm. I had only had 1/2 cup of coffee when I got these #s so keep that in mind.

[pelligrini]

Great info guys, thanks! I really appreciate the measurements messmaker. That's a pretty good read on the HP & amp ratings too.