A few questions - Jointer

[Carlos]

I used to have a Harbor Freight 7" jointer (junk) with fairly long tables for its size. The tables were larger than I ever really needed and where in the way as far as shop space. I now have a Jet 6" and haven't run into anything I need a larger one for. I've done 10" boards by simply double-passing them and then a run through the thickness planer.

I guess this makes up for my bigger-is-better purchase of a Jet 18" bandsaw... That one was important, as I just made veneers from 10" wide Wenge and I doubt any smaller bandsaw would have been as pleasant to use.

[tjmac44]

Thanks to every reply. I pulled the trigger on this:

Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer Warranty NEW G0604XB


Got it on Ebay Grizzly Auction for $544.00 delivered.

[dtam]

The G0856 is no longer $595, but now $695.

Can someone explain how to face joint a board that's wider than the width of your jointer by double passing it. Can you use this method with jointers that have a rabbetting ledge, like the Craftsman 6" jointer that was on clearance for $104 last year?

Thanks.

[SARGE..g-47]

The G0856 is no longer $595, but now $695.

Can someone explain how to face joint a board that's wider than the width of your jointer by double passing it. Can you use this method with jointers that have a rabbetting ledge, like the Craftsman 6" jointer that was on clearance for $104 last year?

Thanks.

Howdy dtam...

I don't and never will explain the procedure I use for double jointing in words on an inter-net. I feel that words can be mis-interpretted and sometimes fall short. I know you are in California and I am in Atlanta.. So you dropping by being shown how is not an option, I'm afraid.

It's easily done but a great deal of extra precaution has to be taken as the mahine was designed for half of what you are attempting to do. It requires removing the "pork chop" gaurd (and I feel uncomfortable just posting that really) but.... a gaurd goes back in it's place and the utmost caution on how it is used.

It will leave a slight ridge where the two passes meet that can be taken out quickly with a sharp hand-plane or even a hand held cabinet scraper in a lot of cases. Or.. sand it out if you have not picked up those skills.

I will post a picture of the guard I use for that operation... but again suggest you proceed with utmost care and preferably with someone that is familar to guide you till you master the somewhat un-orthodox procedure.

Edit.. opps, forgot the pictures!

[SARGE..g-47]

Here ya go....

[Carlos]

Can you use this method with jointers that have a rabbetting ledge, like the Craftsman 6" jointer that was on clearance for $104 last year?

I don't know anything about the Craftsman, but it does work with rabetting jointers. You just take off the guard, make a normal pass, and reverse the board (you will be cutting against the grain now so be more careful). If I'm making multiple passes I move the fence slightly each time to avoid building up a thick line at the cut. I have a thickness planer so I just make a pass through that to remove any small line down the middle.

[dtam]

Thanks Sarge for the explanation.

Unfortunately, after removing the guard, I noticed this pin sticking out that will get in the way (this is the craftsman 6" jointer some of us got on clearance last year). Does anyone have any idea how to remove it? Tried using pliers already.

Thanks.

[SARGE..g-47]

I can't help you with the pin placement on that Craftsman as I have never seen one on any jointer I am familar with. Perhaps they put it there not only as a stop for the pork chop, but also to discourage you from doing what we are talking about doing?

You will have to find out (check your manual parts list and see if they show it as replace-able piece) if it comes out or is fixed. I know what I would do if it is fixed, but I won't disclose that either. You just have to do what you feel is best to do.

But... Read the post just made by Carlos carefully... very carefully. As I said I don't like to attempt to disclose to someone on line how to double pass. I prefer to show them as then I know they know.

But.... What Carlos said about having to reverse direction is VERY.. VERY,, IMPORTANT. On one pass you go against the grain and not only does that create a potential problem with grain raise (you can rub the fur on a cat only one way to smooth it... it will resist the opposite direction).. I have had a few instances where it got a bit squirrely on the jointer.

Nothing major, but enough that without awareness it could and without that total focus with that fact in mind.. could have led to a surprise that caught you off gaurd and created a scenario that could get out of control with a sudden jerk or move that put you off- balance.

In other words.. be d*mn careful and pay attention to which way the grain runs on the stock. It will tell you when to heighten the sense of alert to a level even higher than VERY HIGH to begin with!

Good call Carlos...

[Wandere]

Auctionzip site....Great! Thanks for passing it along.

I used to use our newspaper classifieds online. They changed the website and now it's impossible to find anything...usability went downhill fast (and I'm a tech guy).

Now I can drive my wife nuts with auction finds again

Appreciate it.

-Rob

[dewi1219]

I am a newbie to jointer use and have a question: If you have a thickness planer, would there be any reason to face joint boards instead of running them through the planer (as long as the width of the board isn't more than the capacity of your planer)? Thanks.
Scott

[LarryG]

Scott, you really need both tools, as they work in tandem. A jointer is used to make a face of a board flat, but it cannot make the two opposing faces parallel. Typically what happens is you end up with a board with two flat faces that tapers in thickness from one end to the other.

A thickness planer, OTOH, will make the two faces parallel, but the board will not necessarily be flat -- any bow that exists will be temporarily pressed out as the board passes through the planer's rollers, but will spring right back where it was as the board exits.

It is, however, possible to make a sled in which a board can be mounted and passed through the planer to simulate a jointer. This is sometimes done by those who don't own a jointer, or who must face-joint a board wider than their jointer can handle.

[jarhead]

Unfortunately, after removing the guard, I noticed this pin sticking out that will get in the way (this is the craftsman 6" jointer some of us got on clearance last year). Does anyone have any idea how to remove it? Tried using pliers already.

BTW, my Ridgid 6" jointer also has this pin; I have not attempted to remove since I have never used this method of jointing wide boards. I have made a planer sled to accomodate wide boards.
Here's a link that has a write-up on using this method.

[Carlos]

I bet on the parts diagram, next to that pin, it says: "Placed here to encourage you to buy our larger jointer." *******s.

If I owned that jointer, I'd make a jig for my angle grinder and shave it off. I'm not really recommending this, it's just what I'd do, and I'm known for doing stupid things. At best, you'd spend an hour going over it slowly until it's perfectly flush, and hopefully not scratch the table itself.

Or maybe this is a sign that you should upgrade...