$200 table saws even worth buying?

[scoutmasterdave]

I am an absolute newbie with regards to woodworking; my experience mainly consists of building subwoofer boxes for car audio. I've used my father's table saw for past projects, which seems to be a 15-year-old brother of the Ridgid TS3650, and it has worked very well for what I have needed (basic ripping, dido cuts, angle cuts).

While I'd love to be able to spend $500 on a table saw right now, it's just not in the cards. There are a few budget saws out there for $200-250, including the Ryobi BTS21, the Hitachi C10FR and C10RA3, the JET 708315LSB, etc.

Are any of these saws worth buying, or will I be too disappointed when I get further into the hobby?

[LCHIEN]

I found them disappointing.
A few years back I bought one of the benchtop saws around $200 and it was rough, the thing vibrated badly, the top too small and miter gage poor, and in general hard to do accurate work on. I moved up to a BT3000 and the difference was like night and day... any 500 dollar saw will probably way outperform the ones you're thinking of.

[Tom Hintz]

One of the really twisted things about woodworking is that the newest woodworkers usually wind up with the most inaccurrate machines and tools which makes the learning process way more difficult and far more dangerous than need be.
Great things can be made on cheap table saws, if you know all the tricks, how to build compensating jigs, cheat alignments that won't work or stay put and how to overcome minimal power. The problem is that for the most part, the only ones who know all that have been woodworkers for a long time and learned much of that trying to overcome a cheap tool. Some still carry the scars to prove it.
I realize that the budget is an important thing and we all have to work within some kind of money limits. I strongly advocate getting the best machines you can muster, even if it means waiting to save up the additonal money. I am an awful "waiting type person" (ask my wife....) but those self-imposed delays sure have paid off when it comes to buying machines.

[gwyneth]

One alternative might be getting a very good circular saw plus either the EZ or All-in-one guide system.

No matter how far you go with woodworking, you'll still occasionally need a circular saw.

I've heard of several woodworkers who have actually ditched their TSes for the EZ system.

Both the EZ and All-in-one systems make it possible to achieve better cuts with a circular saw than most users believe is possible. They can also be used with routers.

If you went this route, for around $200 or a little more you'd have near the best in its class, rather than the worst. And everything will remain useful long after you can afford a good TS.

[drumpriest]

I'm with Tom on this topic. I did the typical and bought some less than great things because they were cheap and I needed them for something at the time. Most have been replaced by now with better equipment. My BT3100 was a good performer at a great price, but now the shop sports an expensive cabinet saw, at times I lament the money spent on the early tools, and wish that I'd have invested a bit more into them.

[cabinetman]

My first tablesaw was a circular saw underneath a piece of plywood, with a home made fence. Yes, it can be done. A lot can be said about the operator, not the tool. But, moving up in the world, I bought a cheap table top direct drive saw. Made a cabinet base, and table extensions for it and wound up smokin' it trying to cut 1" plexiglas.

I did have to save up and finance my first Unisaw. What a difference. It's night and day. My recommendation is to figure out what you will be using the saw for, and the space, and electric required. In my case it was my livelihood. If there was a BT back then it probably would have been fine. There are other factors involved in making your decision which as stated are budget, safety issues and educating yourself in the care, proper operation and fine tuning of the equipment you have.

[Uncle Cracker]

If I were in your position, I would probably look around for a used BT3000 (15 amp) or BT3100 to start with. Used ones are usually on the cheap (often no more than $100), and they are a lot of saw for the price. That will give you something to learn on, and time to discover what type of work you really will be doing. After some time, if you decide to step up to a bigger saw, you'll have a good idea what you need, and time enough to save up the $$$.

Often, newbs will go out and spend mucho dinero on snazzy tools they soon get tired of, or don't use often, or whatever. Then these same tools end up on Craigslist, selling for way less than their value. That's when those of us who have waited and watched patiently (like vultures) end up with the killer bargains.

[p8ntblr]

Check out Craigslist for used equipment. If you're near this area, here is a $20 BT3100 (might be missing stand and miter table).

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=33287

[ironhat]

Good idea there, U Cracker. A case of having your cake and eating it too. While I've never owned a BT there's a scad of support for that machine right here. So, let's see, you get a pretty decent saw, don't spend an arm and a leg that you don't have and a support group to help you with the machine as well as project questions. Sounds more like having your cake, your pie, eating both and losing weight at the same time! OK, that's just my no-too-useful opinion.

[Knottscott]

You're not likely to find a good new saw for $250, but it does happen. Your price range should afford a good full sized cast iron used saw, and/or likely some BT's. Keep your eyes peeled and jump on the right opportunity.

The most expensive tools are the ones that don't get used b/c of inaccuracies, need to be replaced prematurely, and don't hold resale value. The bulk of depreciation has already been taken on a good used tool, so it will be worth roughly what you paid for it 5 years from now...maybe even more.

[LinuxRandal]

I have and pretty much exclusively use the EZ now. Though my father talked me into keeping the tablesaw (it may end up at my brothers farm). Since you have access to a saw (assuming he is not too far), that is a option if you need it. Used, we find old Craftsman saws from under $100, to $175 (over two with fence upgrades), that is another option.

You might also ask if he is planning on upgrading his Ridgid. He may give you a bargain, and use that as an excuse to upgrade.

If you go a benchtop, I would look at the Jimmy Jig, as a way to improve accuracy.

You still have options, don't immediately settle for one you will regret.

[siliconbauhaus]

depending on where you are in the country I have a great deal on a complete bt3 with all the extras

[Jeffrey Schronce]

BT3 or good contractor saw. Either from Craigslist.

[eezlock]

$200 saw ?

I don't think of the saws you mentioned, that $200.00 would get much of a good deal in them. I would look at buying a better made saw, used contractor
saw or used BT3 saw rather than a benchtop version. Craig's list or local
papers have tools in them...probably get more saw for your money than
buying something that is not much more than someone else's throw away
type or a headache version. Most bench top saws have loud motors, cheap
and unreliable fences and crappy miter gauges....not to mention that they
can't be easily upgraded to make them any better to use.A lot of the cheap
saws can't even use a decent stacked dado blade. eezlock

[radhak]

As an owner of a BTS20R, which I bought in Jan'06 with exactly the same thought process as your's now, I can relate.

I am luckier than most : my TS is pretty accurate, and does not give me too many problems. I actually like to use it more than my All-in-One clamp with the CS, and could genuinely say it's my favorite tool in the shop. But for all that, if I had to do it again, I'd buy the BT3C (new/used), or something even more expensive.

My take has been, my TS (and mebbe other cheaper saws) is too 'non standard' for comfort. It's dust collection has been a pain, particularly because of the 'moveable, wheeled base' that makes a mess of the space below the saw : sealing it for a DC is a PITA, attaching a dust bag is another, and the wheels don't really make it easier to move than others without. It does have two miter slots (love it for it), but it's riving-knife-splitter-pawls setup is a joke : the splitter works, the pawls are useful, but the RK stays around 2 inches above the saw-blade . And worst of all, our Lee Stytooner does not make a shark-guard for this TS, so I'm left with a handicapped anti-kickback-system .

And yes, the table is light, real light : while ripping a 1"-thick oak board, you will need to use your third hand to steady the saw just in case it wants to tip over. What, you don't have a third hand ? Well, then you shd have another way to rivet the saw to the ground.

All in all, the only reason I am not giving up and buying another TS is that I am feeling guilty of washing away a couple of hundred bucks. Now, if my garage were to disappear in a sink-hole tomorrow,... !

So, I'd advise you to buy a Table Saw that's much more expensive than you could afford right now : something that should take you (say) 6 months to save for. In the bottomline calculation, you'd look back a year later and see you'd have saved money, and thank all of us here .

How I have begun to do this is by 'borrowing from myself'. I got myself a couple of high-class stuff couple of months ago (router table with incra fence, high-end router, etc, and also a DowelMax as a gift from LOML), and am on a diet ever since : no purchases at all till I have evened up all that, will take a couple of months more - but at least i have something i can treasure forever .

Hope that helps.