Raising The Bar in Shop Accuracy

[gwyneth]

This is a great thread if I do say so myself!

[snip]

I have slowed down a lot and am really beginning to enjoy the process more and more. I was typically very results oriented. I am slowing down and realizing spending time on getting things right, along with spending money on the right stock is the way to go.

It is a great thread, so go ahead and say it.

For a lot of reasons, I think it's interesting that it was started by Jeffrey--I'm wondering how your surgery affected your outlook.

As I've noted before, looking at Rod's jigs and fixtures is inspirational because they're a great demonstration that the process is at least as important as the end results...there's a zen term for this that essentially means, the journey is the destination.

[LarryG]

Interesting question posed by gwyneth, there.

Jeff, if it matters, when I say "prototyping," perhaps 75% of the time I'm talking about making a Marks-style template, as opposed to going directly to shaping the actual workpiece. The remaining 25% of the time it's mostly just a portion of the project, not the whole thing. Still, there have been times when I built an entire project in the rough, largely making it up as I went, as part of the design process.

Lastly, reinforcing what you and Tom wrote about measuring, marking, and setup tools ... if there's one place in the shop where I firmly believe it's foolhardy to scrimp on cost, it's here. No matter how much or how little you spend on your woodworking machinery, a careful setup using measuring tools that you know are accurate, that you know you can trust, will allow your machines to perform at their very best. Precision measuring tools are the baseline for everything in the shop, and everything that will ever come out of it.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

gwyneth,
I don't think that surgery impacted my approach to life. The underlying condition, stomach ulceration, actually wasn't really bothering me or impacting my quality of life in the last year. It could have been the few weeks that I turned over my business after surgery and actually got some good rest. Actually, you may be on to something as I dropped a few pounds after surgery and no longer have to use a CPAP machine for sleep. I guess those full nights of sleep may be helping!

Larry,

Ok, fair enough. That prototyping I can do and actually think it is great! You are right about not skimping on acurate measuring, marking and set up tools. Names to remember . . . Incra and Lee Valley for both measuring and set up tools.

[LarryG]

Names to remember . . . Incra and Lee Valley for both measuring and set up tools.

Also Starrett, and Shinwa, to name just a couple.

BTW on further review, I see that others -- Hank, Joe, Rags, more -- also mentioned the importance of precision in this department. Looks like most of us are of a like mind. My point was and is: while fifty bucks for a top-quality square may seem absurd to someone new to woodworking, it's a lifetime investment and it'll find a use on everything in the shop, tools and projects alike.

And yes, this IS a great thread!

[Tarhead]

I'll throw a few things in here:

Better lighting
My 22X22 shop/garage had 4, 2 bulb flourescent ceiling fixtures. I added 6 more 4 bulb fixtures plus have some directional task lights. I can see in 1/64ths now and see places I've missed with the sander, finish issues, etc with the directional lighting.

Over Glasses eye protection (Eye Armor)
I have progressive lenses for astigmatism and far sightednes. The safety glasses with the bifocals worked ok but I always had eye strain. The Eye Armor over glasses are precision fit to my regular glasses and comfortable.

18" drafting triangle

24" Straight Edge

Assembly Table (ala David Marks) super flat and big

[charliex]

Proto-types are something I've been doing for awhile now. Three projects ( 1 for LOML and 2 for the shop) came out so well that I dressed them up and they became the final product.
Excellent thread topic.
Chas

[scmhogg]

Jeff,

I have virtually stopped measuring, unless my project has to fit in somewhere.

I use a bar gauge to transfer dimensions and to check square. I set one dimension of my project on the bar gauge and try to make the others as close to the golden rectangle as possible with golden ratio calipers. For the most part, I try to let cut pieces determine the dimensions of the remaining parts.

I still screw up a lot. But, eliminating the measuring errors has cut back some.

Steve

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Tarhead, absolutely! I just installed a few more T-8 units in my shop, particularly over the bench where I do measurements, etc.

Steve, I agree that if I am not working from a plan (which I usually do not) that your method works well. I am glad to hear that someone else is using this method. I know on a given project I want my rails to be "around" 2.25", the key is just cutting them all at the same time so they are identical.

[gwyneth]

Tarhead, absolutely! I just installed a few more T-8 units in my shop, particularly over the bench where I do measurements, etc.

Steve, I agree that if I am not working from a plan (which I usually do not) that your method works well. I am glad to hear that someone else is using this method. I know on a given project I want my rails to be "around" 2.25", the key is just cutting them all at the same time so they are identical.

I recently read that doing this rather than 'measuring' was one of the best ways to improve woodworking results--but right now I don't remember where. It went into some detail about it.

I'll probably remember in three weeks after the thread dies down.

[HarmsWay]

Figure out what tolerance is required and build to it. I learned this from listening to our machine shop guys complain about some of the engineers. They get drawings for widgets with +/-0.001 mm tolerance (their default in AuotCad) and dutifully build to that spec. Then the project manager complains because shop time is costing them too much. It takes a while for them to train each new engineer on how to determine appropriate tolerances but it's worthwhile. I apply that to my woodworking now. Typically very little needs tight tolerances and as Steve says usually it's not an absolute dimension tolerance, it just has to be the same as another part (make the cuts at the same time).

Somewhat related and also previously mentioned here is building jigs. I used to waffle about whether or not to make a jig when building a project. Now I just make them and have never come to the conclusion that is was a wasted effort even if it was a single use jig.

Good tools? Definitely important to have good squares. I bought a combination square almost 30 years ago for about $14. Unfortunately I over paid. I curse it every time I use it. The adjustment knob is either too loose to hold the blade or welded too tight to turn - nothing in between. The 45 degree face is about a degree off which is fine for just about nothing. The markings are next to impossible to read except in perfect light. In comparison, the Starretts and Mitutoyos at work are a dream to use. I just can't justify C$200 for something like that.

Bob

[gwyneth]

Harmsway, there must be something between your crappy combination square and the $200 models that is accurate. I think on your next birthday, or next week, you should go buy that something and throw out the bad one.

I then predict you will wonder why you put up with the bad one for so long.

[LCHIEN]

Harmsway, there's no justifying keepin the $14 square that beats you up.
if $140US/$200 CDN is too much for a Starrett, look on eBay for a used one, the four-piece sets go for around $60-70 IIRC if you are patient.
find one that looks to be in nice shape, people who have starretts usually treat them with reasonable care since its a precision instrument and they paid a bunch for it new.

[gwyneth]

I bought a combination square almost 30 years ago for about $14. Unfortunately I over paid. I curse it every time I use it. The adjustment knob is either too loose to hold the blade or welded too tight to turn - nothing in between. The 45 degree face is about a degree off which is fine for just about nothing. The markings are next to impossible to read except in perfect light. In comparison, the Starretts and Mitutoyos at work are a dream to use. I just can't justify C$200 for something like that.

Bob, in the Woodcraft catalog that came today Starrett combination squares are $66.99 for the six inch, and $74.99 for the 12 inch...and of course, Woodcraft is not the cheapest source for anything.

[HarmsWay]

Yes good advice, although by the time they get through customs they are more expensive. Plus the $200 ones I've used are the forged hardened steel versions. I look for used ones locally every now and then. Government auctions used to be good for that sort of thing.

I know. Quit *****ing and buck up. I see Lee Valley sells the cast iron Starretts for under C$80 (or $180 for the 4-piece set).

Bob

[wardprobst]

One method I use frequently- scale sticks- simple and effective. Not as elegant as prototyping but quicker.

DP